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Found 6 results

  1. Hey guys I'm having a problem with my steering rack its on a ke26, the stops seem to be too high to lock or the rack is too low to lock, either way its not hitting the stops on both sides, nothing seem to be bent or broken. If any one could shed some light on this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  2. Hello guys, The reason I am here is that my car is in the garage and i have stripped my steering box and drag link and the front x member is off. Yes I am installing a rack and pinion. I have found an expert welder who is ready to fabricate. I know and we all know that we don't have a donor rack the size we want as the width is too small. But I am going to build a center pull rack and pinion with a wider rack like as follows. but to do so I need some exact measurements within the next 2 to 3 days. Measurements A = Distance between LCA inner pivot points = 492.4mm (Credit parrot) B = Distance between tie rod inner pivot points = 410mm (Credit parrot) C = LCA length = 320mm (Credit parrot) D = Perpendicular distance between LCA inner pivot center and tie rod pivot -------- ?? E = Vertical difference in height between inner LCA pivot and inner tie rod pivot = 6mm (Inner tie rod pivot is higher) (Credit Rob KE25) Looking forward to input from all the experts here. Thanks Other info Front Track Width (Wheel Mounting Face to Wheel Mounting Face): 1270mm (Credit styler) Rear Track Width (Wheel Mounting Face to Wheel Mounting Face): 1295mm (Credit styler)
  3. Hi there, What are the options that we have to upgrade a KE20/25 front suspension. 1. Which crossmembers can we use, KE30 or KE70 or KP61?? 2. What are the shortest LCAs that can be used on a KE20?? Are there any shorter than KE70?? I am busy designing a rack & pinion setup for my car. I have installed a starlet rack in but as it is wider therefore bumpsteer issues Temporary fix - Drop the car as much as possible - Less movement less bumpsteer. Currently drives excellent on flat roads with small bumps. . Out of all the crossmembers I have seen, the ke30 looks the easiest swap. My current track width is R LCA + L LCA + Inter LCA distance = 320mm + 320mm + 493mm = 1133mm If I use a KE30 crossmember with KE70 LCAs 300+300+520 = 1120mm (1.3 cm Narrower) OR If I use a KE30 crossmember with KE30 LCAs 310+310+520 = 1140mm (0.7 cm wider) Would any of these be a better start in rack and pinion conversion??
  4. hey rolla group, just wondering if any one had ever changed a ke55 steering box to a rack n pinon set up out of a ke70 or any thing else about the same size ,and how easy or hard was it, and did you leave the same steering colum,
  5. Hey there guys, I'm looking to achieve more lock out of my Ke70, so far Ive done the following steering modifications.. T3 - Front Lower Control Arms. T3 - Tension Control arms. T3 - Outer Tie rods. T3 - Ae86 Power Steering arms. But I'm still looking to gain more, so i'm wandering what possible steering rack swaps are out there with the use of the stock ke70 engine crossmember? Any and all help is greatly appreciated, thanks!!
  6. Thought I'd write up a guide to installing an AJPS lock spacer. Not that's it's hard to figure out but because I found that the AJPS instructions didn't have any actual pics of the installation. This is a task that can be handled easily by mechanical n00bies :yes: First loosen the clamps on the rack side of the dust boots (small phillips screw) and slide them down the tie rod. If your wondering why there's less grease on the passenger side it's because the rack teeth are on the drivers side. Then use a fairly big adjustable wrench to crack the inner tie rods (Don't worry about the little locking tab, just put the wrench on that too), and in my case I could undo the rest by rotating it with my hand. They're traditional left is loose, right is tight (Some cars are not). Screw in the rack spacer on the passenger side and tighten it. Do not go overtightening. Locktight is not needed at all but if it makes you feel better put some medium stuff on not the supertight stuff. Then slip the spacer on the drivers side tie rod and reattach both tie rods. Now the important thing to do is center the rack when aligning it after. It's pretty simple. Measure on the drivers side from the end of the rack HOUSING to the inner tierod (not spacer) and on the passenger side end of rack housing to the wider part of the spacer; turn the steering till both measurements are exactly the same. If you turn your wheel from full left to full right the half the number of turns back, it should be in about the right spot. The reason I say not to do this is because in practice unless being really carefull it'll be a bit of as it's hard to judge because the steering wheel is not straight. However it's proably fine and i'm just being pedantic :P Get the idea? Your steering wheel will not be straight. remove and reattach it as straight as the splines/boss kit let you, reinstall the dust boots then get an alignment with you steering wheel straight and your done, Tada! :D Was wondering whether or not to post this but it can't hurt. Hope this helps someone :)
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