parrot

2tb (pushrod single cam with twin downdraft carbs) or 2tg (twin overhead cam with twin sided raft carbs)? 2tb chain plus tensioner and slides are easy enough to find (although the curve slide less so). If a 2tg, the top can chain can be sourced from specialists (sleeka spares). US eBay is a good source for the 2tb stuff, 3tc being the same.

I just looked then, you need to be registered to see the member for sales, but it is a good group and I'm sure there will be other TE71 owners there for you to learn from

Get onto aeu86.org This is a Euro based site with an active buying selling forum. I doubt you will have any difficulty finding a 4.3 there, and probably even shorter ratios.

No worries. Let us know how you get on. I'll need to change my springs as I'm not running cut springs in any of my cars

Sorry, down with a cold and the top nut was hella tight, even with the rattle gun. OD is 130mm Overall length uncompressed to the tip of the coil end is 28.5cm Looking at the tip of the Spring, I'm suspicious it has been cut, and the spring was also able to be moved about fairly freely when complete. You will notice the top of the Spring isn't flattened off like an OEM Spring should be. So you may want to consider the above length as satisfactory for a lowered car. Wire diameter is 12mm. I've not seen a car with this strut installed so can't give you an accurate idea of ride height. On car measurement of a KE25 Spring also looks to be 130mm OD. Hope that helps.

I'll check when I get home and let you know

If you can read the part number on the sticker (if it's still there) I can see if it's in the part book

I reckon 42 lengths of different coloured wires is going to cost you about $251 (plus post)!

The answer is that there were 0.8kw and 1.0kw starters available across the 2T engined range, but the 1.0kw starter wasn't specific to the 2TG. Have checked this across the TE2x and TA2x part books. Edit: and out to TE47. Presumably it depended on the vehicle location and ambient temperature range/oil viscosity rather than T vs TG. In some locations, K engines only had 0.6kw starters. Some years back I picked up a reduction starter for my 2TG from a local (Wangaratta) very Toyota literate wrecker (he used to rally a variety of Toyotas) who I am very confident knew his stuff. This is awaiting me getting on with my build so I can't positively personally confirm it fits, but is marked 1GGZE. I only actually unwrapped it a few weeks back. Obviously do your own research, but this may be a better option if going to the effort to locate one overseas. I'm sure along the way, that I have seen reference elsewhere to 1G family starters in T situations.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/67274-ke20-swaybar-options/

They really look fantastic! It just breaks up the flank and draws the eye. Good choice.

Yes. I had a solid state facet pump in a Datsun 1600 (after having flooded the sump and washed the bores with a too high pressure pump). That was rubber mounted to the floor but still made a hell of a racket. Here is a link to the thread with the weber settings: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/61441-weber-settings/page__p__619800__hl__+weber%20+settings#entry619800

Have a read up on compression. Don't overdo it as you will run into problems on a multiuse engine. The standard fuel pump should be sufficient. I ran twin Webers etc in a 2T in my TA 22 Celica for years on the standard fuel pump. Often people like to run an electric pump, but these are moderately expensive, and need to be wired carefully to ensure the pump switches off in the event of a rollover (for example). You also need to be careful about the fuel pressure the electric pump runs at or it may overwhelm the needle and seats and flood your sump with fuel when you turn the pump on. You can set it up with an appropriate pressure pump, fuel pressure regulator etc, mount the pump in the boot near the tank (most electric fuel pumps push rather than suck fuel), wire it properly etc - or just use your stock mechanical pump. I would do the latter. If you search Weber settings, I have a post somewhere with a booklet of recommended chokes/jets put out by warneford from memory. This will at least give you some reasonable starting points, but you would always need to put the car on a dyno to get it right.

As a start I would check the float is set correctly. What does "refurbished the carby" mean, in so much as what did you actually do. Have you moved the distributor at all.

Great write up Harry. I have kept an eye on your blog, but being a bit old (and old fashioned) I couldn't work out how to get involved in it. I've had my KE15 for quite a few years now, and whilst I am yet to proceed on any actual work on it, I know I will be quite soon at last. Like you, I know it's there, and that matters to me. I work in health, and can tell you that depression and anxiety are far more common than you realise. It wasn't until I had my own brush with anxiety a couple of years ago that I realised just how overwhelming it can be. All enjoyment in life just evaporates, and you can't bring yourself to enjoy the things you enjoy. But it does get better. It's about realising that you have consciously put your perception of bad things aside, and that even when things seem as bad as they can get, there is far far more in life that is great. My way of diverting the dark thoughts is to tell myself that I'm not going to think about that, instead I'm going to mentally rebuild my little K engine. And so I do, and the cloud lifts. I've built that little beast about a thousand times. As always, I'll be looking forward to your updates!

Thanks LRS What's bad about Japan? Well the TV is absolutely dreadful, and sometimes it can get very crowded. But everyone is so incredibly polite, lining up patiently to get onto the train and so on. No angst or grief. Shinjuku train station is absolutely enormous and if you get your entrance wrong, you are in trouble. Especially if carting your luggage up and down steps. The TV being bad means you spend a lot of time on the internet courtesy of the portable wifi modem you can hire and is indespensible as it allows you to navigate via google maps. As long as you remember to take it with you. The streets aren't signposted or seemingly even named as we would know it, instead they use a moderately complicated numbering system, along the lines of a UK address code. We were lucky enough to be here during a sumo tournament, which was an absolute highlight. Well worth checking when they are on if you are coming, and you can buy tickets online a month beforehand.

Continuing my travelogue of Japanese auto shopping! On our way to miyajima island from Hiroshima, I spotted an upgarage just up the road from Itsukaichi station on the local line. Well I couldn't not go there since it was so convenient. So on the way home from a sobering morning at the atomic bomb dome, and a nice western style ham and lettuce roll at the Danish bread shop (good bread is hard to find here) though Starbucks and Starbucks copies aren't, I cheered myself up with a visit. Much better than super autobacs. More performance oriented but still stocks some generic new stuff. They have a lot of second hand performance stuff. Alas little for us old school Toyota heads. Just 3 or so sets of watanabe style wheels, and a TRD clutch and pressure plate attached to a very heavy flywheel. But still good fun. Today's purchases, a 'JDM Spirit' street silencer (essentially an exhaust restrictor) to quieten it down (if required!) and some long wheel studs. View from the window of my ryokan as I type

I would love to, unfortunately not on this trip, but will likely come back again

Well she certainly is of the view that penises are funny so she is halfway there. The striking thing is that there is so little congestion on the roads, even in the centre of Tokyo. The vast majority of cars seem to be small boxy things that look identical whichever manufacturer they are. Those and Cedric & Crown super luxury taxis. Have seen no old cars at all until today when a hotted up Subaru Legacy wagon crawled past in a narrow Kyoto laneway. No doubt they are around, just not in the middle of Shinjuku. No driving for us, it's been trains all the way. I would love to come back with Mrs Parrot and do an onsen tour in the back blocks, but she just gave a derisive laugh and said she wants to go back to Europe. Perhaps I'll just have to do it by myself. It really is a stunning place, so easy to get around especially as they have made significant efforts to improve signage in English on public transport etc with the upcoming tokyo olympics. Nearly all cheap restaurants have an English menu, or the ubiquitous display food out front that you can point at. And accomodation and food is cheaper than Australia. And the shopping is just amazing.

So here I am in Kyoto with my nearly 12 yr old daughter for a father/daughter trip. Unfortunately typhoon Malakas hit today, so other than a spell at the Nishiki market; temples shrines and bamboo forests were out due to torrential rain. BUT I had been keeping an eye out on google maps in case there ever happened to be an autobacs or upgarage in the general vicinity. I did catch sight of an upgarage through the window of the Hikari shinkansen about half an hour out of Tokyo - so near yet so far...... The Superautobacs was just 15 min away on the bus! So off we went. On arrival I parked said daughter on a chair with her iPhone and portable wifi to hunt yet more pokemons. Then I spent the next hour working my way through the aisles to make sure I didn't miss anything. And what a disappointment. I'm not quite sure what I expected, but other than great tins of oil rather than plastic containers, air deodorisers and the usual dross, there was little on offer. I did find a cabinet containing TRD stuff, but this was mainly a few TRD key rings. They did have some little TRD plastic y pieces labelled noise changes, but not sure what they were. An old school TRD gearknob for about $30, but I already have a couple of those. Did get some TOSCO stickers for the TE27 though. No Nardi horn buttons, the Tein & cusco stuff on offer was very sparse and as you would imagine, only for today's modern tat. The shop guys were uninterested to say the least. I came away with a nice cup holder, some Bosch electric horns for the KE15, 40mm screws for the Nardi and my stickers for 7300yen So if you ever come to Japan, by all means lookout for an autobacs, but I wouldn't go out of your way. Definitely do make sure you get along to Donki (don Quixote) which has become our nightly pilgrimage to stroll the aisles under the assault of noise from the various advertising blaring from each product line. Even the vibrator aisle which she found before I did. I don't think she actually knows what they are for.

Welcome! eBay isn't the best place, and seal quality and availability is probably (almost) the most talked about early Corolla topic on the forums. After market seals have roughly the correct external shape, but none of the complexity of an OEM seal. However they are essentially all that is available. There are endless debates about the relative quality of the thai rubbers, and various aftermarket sellers in Australia, who may or may not be selling on the thai rubbers at a markup. Occasionally something comes up on eBay. I think the door seals in Adelaide Australia are genuine, but check with the seller. Mind you he wants $140 each, and they have been for sale for a couple of years. Actually a quick look shows only one is currently for sale. http://www.ebay.com....QMAAOSwnNBXXT3I I got some genuine door and luggage compartment seals from Joel at toysport in the past, but that was some years ago now. Cabe Toyota in the US is another place to try. They had rear quarter seals, again some years ago. Worth a query at least. Screen seals I have only seen on yahoo Japan and then less than a handful over many years. Sometimes you need to think a little outside the square. I got a rear luggage compartment seal for my KE15 from Portugal. It's actually for a Corona, but the same profile and style of seal only longer. The genuine seals were cut anyway, so will do the trick. Otherwise it is a matter of endless trawling various auction sites and international parts suppliers on the off chance something comes up. Anything in a "Toyota general parts" bag is aftermarket. The days of doing up old Toyota's on the cheap are long past.

300ft-lbs? That will require one hell of a long bar. Must be to couteract the massive torque of your engine so as not to throw the harmonic balancer...... I think it has been said previously that the German's have a tendency to over engineer things a tad. And who of us hasn't fitted a standing engine without changing the timing belt. I know I have. When I did eventually change it, the belt had had a slice in the side of it. But as we all know, 4AGE's are not blessed with endless torque. Can't wait to see it finished. And sorting out the few minor blemishes will stand you in good stead down the track also.

Back in the day when there was no availibility of off the shelf stuff, everyone had there cast iron flywheels machined down. Take it to a reputable engine shop and you will be fine. They will know where and how much to machine.

The booster internals look moderately complex. I've got a NOS rebuild kit for mine and there are quite a few bits in it. I've also got a 1974 brake manual that shows a rebuild procedure. I can send you that if you like. Panhard mount is the one on the left halfway between the damper mount and the trailing arm bracket. And yes, you mount a tower of sorts on the other side of the car. It comes down from the floor. There is some geometry involved in ensuring you have it in the right place, so you might want to spend a bit of time researching that. I vaguely recall that you could buy panhard chassis mounts for some other modified Toyota. I think it was a longer one for an AE86

Also agree with above. If you haven't already, get the head ported and shaved for some sensible compression around 10:1. And match port the manifolds