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parrot

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Everything posted by parrot

  1. Got to love what filler can hide. I reckon just paint. I've had some really disappointing results with powder coating. From waiting forever, parts temporarily (thank god) going missing, poor finish due to poor prep etc etc I'm going with Dulux Metalshield epoxy enamel in a satin black. That way I know it's done right as I have full control over the whole process.
  2. Not with the early Corolla's. They were screwed on back then. The problem is as MickyZ has noted, it will likely be an Australia only colour option. I think they were Dulux colours back then
  3. If I was you, i would take the master cylinder out of the car and bench bleed it. Plenty of tutorials on the net to explain how to do it. Once you get air in the master cylinder, it is very hard to get it out whilst it's fitted to the car and it can cause the sort of problems you describe. You can bleed at the wheels as much as you like and the problem will persist. If you do fit a new master cylinder, make sure you bench bleed it before you install it. Also, on the side of the master cylinder there is a bolt. This is the piston stop bolt, and it keeps the internal pistons correctly located. If you mistakenly believe this to be a bleed valve (it isn't) and back it off to try and bleed the master cylinder, the pistons will sit incorrectly and your brakes won't work properly either.
  4. Performance Car magazine up the newsagents this week has an article on how to make your E30 go faster. Didn't read it, but may be worth a look.
  5. I was looking at homers ke17 (user name) build thread, who put a 4agze in a ke15. It looks like he used the original pedal box and modified the clutch pedal
  6. Seriously, virtually anything you need to source is going to be discontinued. Why go for smaller KE20 stuff which is even older and harder to find. Rotors, pads and caliper rebuild kits are readily available on ebay for 55 - 70's. And will likely continue to be so for some time. They are also cheap, so if really worried, just stockpile a spare set. In the modern internet world we live in, PBR, built in Australia & very oddball in NZ is a nonsense reason not to use a proven effective & simple upgrade. Ypu won't find anything simpler and as effective as the wiki guide. Anything else is going to be a major exercise and out of proportion to what you need.
  7. I can't imagine why they would tell you that. What reason did they give?
  8. That's why you swap everything across. Engine, suspension, brakes and especially wiring looms
  9. Not really. You can do a compression test to check it's general condition and tune it properly. Anything else is really pissing in the wind. Any thing else means money - head work, cam etc. And conversion to EFI will be more complicated and expensive than you would think. My two cents: if the body etc is good, look out for a cheap AE92 4AGE twin cam with a grubby engine and tired body. Then swap everything across to your car. You will be surprised how much differs.
  10. Years ago I was with a small crowd called torque insurance who were very personalised. They have unfortunately been swallowed up and dealing with some random guy there, it was impossible to get them to understand I had an ae86 and not an ae82 because of the 4age.
  11. Ha! My very first car back in 1983 was a B110 4 door. Thrashed the hell out of it before it got killed by a Nissan Urvan. Karma really. That's a really odd story regarding the import, but clearly you were in the right place at the right time. I wonder why it was brought in. As you have no doubt noticed, trim and body parts are increasingly hard to find and expensive when you do. Be very careful pulling it apart. If you take the roof lining out, start at the front and work toward the back to reduce the risk of tearing it.
  12. Subscribed! That's a big effort importing one from Australia. What's your particular interest in this model (very much shared by me)?
  13. My problem is that the AE86 is categorised as a "risk" vehicle for all the reasons you can imagine. The KE15 was only going to be about $130 odd from memory
  14. Not good. Presumably the wiring and switches are all unchanged from when it last ran? Have you fiddled with any of the wiring along the way?
  15. That's pretty good. Shannon's quoted me about $680 for my modified AE86, and that was for a 45 day club permit. Considering I'm over 50 and rating 1, Garaged etc, couldn't believe it.
  16. Brown. Well I can't fault any of your other decisions so I'm sure it will come out awesome. Currently in Roskilde looking at Viking longboats. The only remotely oldish car I have seen so far was a mark 2 Golf GTI. Are there many oldish cars around (I realise you're not Danish) or are they basically legislated out.
  17. I doubt you will need to do anything. Possibly adjust the timing, but probably not even that. Just give it a treat and do a usual tune. The valve seats are already hardened so changing to a non lead alternative won't cause any valve seat recession
  18. I gave up with the lack of reponses and during a cleanup last week tossed it out. My fifteen dollar replacement is bearing up well, but i did have some attachment to old faithful. sob
  19. Your funny. Have a look in your box of bits that came with the FPR. It's simply a small aluminium plate about an inch long with two bolt holes to locate into the fuel rail. On side is a prong with from memory an O ring, that inserts into the rail. On the other side is a barb you connect a hose to which goes to the remote mounted FPR. Like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbosmart-FPR-Adapter-Toyota-Subaru-/111856717603?hash=item1a0b2e0f23:g:GZoAAOSwUdlWejLM If buying this one, you need to make sure you get one designed for a bigport 4AGE rail obviously
  20. I love these cars. Win!
  21. Whatever the case, it's a pretty stunning achievement
  22. So if I put some of that "custom crafted lubricant blend" in my K motor, how many kilowatts will I get? Maybe I should use that instead of good old HPR50. Coming to a supercheap near you real soon
  23. You may want to move this to the right forum. No-one will see it here
  24. Genuine part number is 04421-12010 rear axle seal is 90311-42055 https://partsdb.info/autopart/skf/vkba674 If you trust generic listings, which are not always reliable, it appears yes.
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