parrot

He he. Took 11 and 13 yo at their request to see new Vacation movie the other week. Wasn't bad, except for the nudity and gratuitous language. Stupid dad (who thought he knew everything) just looked at the preview before deciding it was appropriate. There is one scene where rusty encourages his son to ask about anything he needs to know. I am still refusing to explain to my 11 yo daughter what a rim job is....... 13yo is pretending to know already, but I'm not going there...... Anyway, back on topic. I agree with all of the above. A well built 5K will turn your KE30 into a fantastic car you will never forget, not break the bank, or take months and months of part sourcing and conversion anguish.

Dads always know what's best! I reckon we should have a Dad's subforum where all the young blokes could ask a panel of Dad's what to do about cars, girls, how they could improve there footy, cricket, basketball etc etc. We know everything. And you youngen's could produce a new emoticon (new fangled technology) showing a pimply face with glazed over eyes!

What did unifilter suggest

Correct. The hole in the steering arm that accepts the ball joint pin is larger (and tapered) on the TA22 steering arms. Of course this is because the balljoint pin is larger in the TA22 than it is in a KE20 (which is also tapered). The KE20 arms will not bolt to the bottom of the TA22 strut as the mounting holes are closer on the KE20 arms (80mm from memory). I'm unclear what level of butchery may enable you to fit a TA22 balljoint into a KE20 lower control arm. If it was easy, everyone would be doing that rather than paying large sums trying to source TE27 steering arms which are a direct bolt in fit. So may not be practical. Or practicalities of adapting a TA22 control arm to a KE20 crossmember.

The TA22 steering arm hole is too big for the KE20 ball point pin. But there are ways around that.

How awesome to be able to just pop out in the shed and whip something up. Make sure you pass on to us the cost for these.

Do the Great Wall ones come preloaded with asbestos?

Don't worry Gav. I'm sure we all understand and appreciate that.

Thanks Trev

Does anyone have an oldish PBR catalogue? I'm trying to find out which model a H1213 brake hose is for. Confident it's Japanese and probably Toyota from early 70's. Interwebs not helpful.

With the drums, back off the shoe adjustor by putting a flat blade screw driver in the slot at the top of the backing plate (on the rear side) and flicking the knurled wheel around a number of times. This brings the shoes away from the drum and you may well be able to wriggle them off. Often you can't, so you then put a bolt in each of the two threaded holes on the front face of the drum, and evenly wind them in with a spanner. This pushes the drum away from the internal axle face. Do it evenly and gradually. You may get a hell of a bang as the shoes let go. Be conscious that the brake linings may contain asbestos which will be in the dust inside the drum, so don't blow it around. If the wheel cylinders look at all like they have been leaking or the seals are swelling, replace them too (or put a kit through them if the bores are in good shape). With the front discs, unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way minimising undo strain on the brake hose. Remove the hub from the stub axle and put the disc hub assembly on the bench. Ideally you need to use an impact wrench with an air gun to undo the four bolts that retain the disc. If you don't have air tools, you may manage if you can hold the hub securely somehow and use a long bar. Use a torque wrench to ensure when refitting the bolts, that you have them tightened to specs. You will need to push the caliper pistons back into the caliper before refitting over your new discs, ensuring you keep an eye on the master cylinder so fluid doesn't overflow. Draw off about half the fluid from the reservoir beforehand. Consider getting a seal kit for the calipers. It's really easy to do. Edit: Obviously once the front disc is off, it is a simple matter to punch out the wheel studs. Wind the new ones in using a suitable spacer and a back to front wheel nut. Repack your wheel bearings before refitting the hub. The four ribs you refer to with the rear drum are actually the centre of the axle hub

Would love to see some plans of how you are building it if possible

In Australia you head along to your local wreckers with a punch and hammer, and look for a rear wheel drive Mitsubishi sigma/magna. They're about 8 mm longer and when I last got some, the guy laughed at me when I asked how much and told me and my bolts to piss off before he changed his mind. The fronts are easier to get out. Not sure how common they are in the uk. You will just have to see how you go getting them in to the rear hub. Hopefully you don't need to pull the axles.

Bargain. Thanks for going to the effort!

I'm in

True, but how you wire it is up to you. Doesn't have to have an ECU signal. Any 80's/90's Toyota has one usually situated just above the ECU, thus free at your local pickapart.

Why not just just get a fuel circuit relay out of any fuel injected Toyota?

Certainly if you go 114.3, the choices expand somewhat. But that requires a bit more work, part sourcing and cash to changeover to that pcd as mentioned previously. But on the basis of your plan to go 4AGE, and the need to upgrade to a likely T series rear end which will be 114.3, you may wish to go that way sooner than later. http://www.importmonster.com.au/yahoo?cat=2084199053&term=114.3&page=5#2084199053

Import monster is a site (one of a number) that enable you to search yahoo Japan in English (well Japlish) and bid in realtime. You pay a fee for the service, but they enable you to bid and have shipped to you, items otherwise inaccessible. The link I posted for you was a search thread for 13 inch 110pcd wheels available on yahoo Japan. As mentioned, it is easily the best source for period correct, and more modern, wheels in the size you seek. As ever, if you are patient, they are often surprisingly cheap. Of course you need to be careful. Look closely at pictures, learn to read Japlish. The good broking services enable you to ask questions re particular auctions. As ever, it's buyer beware. http://www.importmonster.com.au/yahoo?cat=2084199053&term=110&page=3#2084199053 My cars and shed are full of parts otherwise unobtainable thanks to buying from yahoo Japan via import monster.

I gave you a direct search link on the JNC thread

Sounds like you should be right for the drive over to Classic Japan!

Although the te72 box will have the wrong bellhousing.

The AE86 is already in rear drive configuration, so if you can get an engine and gearbox from one of these. it makes things simpler. In Australia we didn't get RWD 4AGE's in any form. The ones here all came from wreckers importing engines or halfcuts. thus it is common to use a FWD engine from an AE82/AE92 which is no big deal, you just need to deal with slight issues with water pipe routing and changing to a RWD waterpump (unless you omit the stock cooling fan). I am not familiar with exact MR2 engine fitment issues but imagine they are similiar to FWD. You also need to remember the inlet manifold will be pointing the wrong way so requires replacement or modififcation. The later T50 box is perfect for your requirements, although rebuild kits can be expensive so don't get one that needs repair. In reality, any of the 16 valve bigports is essentially a bolt in with the few rear wheel drive specific ancillaries, and smallports are not much harder. The later bigport engines are a sweeter motor than an early bigport in my experience, due to the improved block rigidity. Smallports also have the later block. 20 valve engines are a little harder but there are specific water re routing kits and distributor relocation kits available. Sam Q in Australia who is a good guy with a good reputation. http://www.sq-engineering.com. Ideally if you can find a cheap AE86 GT with a rusted body, you would have virtually all the mechanicals and electrics you need in one donor. Not sure how common it is to find those in the UK though. Edit: and using the 4AGE and late T50 you just use the 4AGE clutch.

Surely the 4A motor T series box is reasonably available? They were fitted to Corolla GT's sold in UK. Even if you were needing to pay a premium to find one, a lot cheaper than any other option requiring bellhousing adaptors or unneccesary transmission tunnel modifications? Have a look on AEU86.org This is a Euro based AE86 forum with a good for sales thread. There are some good resources and knowledgeable people on there also. Edit: I'm assuming you realise there are different T50 gearbox's, and that the early type fitted to a 2T/2TG in a TA22 Celica or TE27 will not fit up to a 4AGE. You need the later type fitted to an AE86

Agreed. Car is looking great Cameron. I love old cars, but you can't beat a modern car for turn key reliability when you have somewhere to go. Have you still got the KE15? Would be a hell of a shock slipping back into that after a while in the ZZE