parrot

Fantastic news Teemu! It looks fantastic which I am sure always helps with registration inspections. You have worked hard and it shows the care you have put in

Please tell me someone is going to give this a try?

Indeed. A lot of work to get it right http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/57054-KE20-25-Rack-and-Pinion-Conversion-Guide-Driving-well-in-my-car!?highlight=ke25+rack+pinion

And by the way. I got my users mixed up in the JNC thread. This is the thread for the conversion kits

It's a good question that I doubt anyone has looked at. I've never seen reconditioned steering boxes readily available in Australia, and I know when I tried to source the various seals and so on, virtually nothing was available genuine. If it does fit, it would be interesting to know if the pitman arm mount would bolt up to the TA22 box I suppose, or it may be a deal breaker.

The guy in Spain does have some great stuff but his prices are eye watering. Do bear in mind he is active on yahoo Japan as a parts source though he clearly has other sources in Japan as well. I have often seen things sell on yahoo only to end up on his eBay site with huge markup. But he outlays the money to import things so he can charge what he likes. It would be easy enough to put some lower front springs and get your rear springs redone (reverse eyes etc) as discussed elsewhere here. You may find some old Mazda wheels in the UK. Series 1 RX7 wheels are an option. Then drive and enjoy what looks like a lovely car. In the meantime start stockpiling parts for your conversion. The driveline at least will be relatively easy for you to locate in your neck of the woods with local AE86 GT's. Go the ae86 front strut route, convert a T series rear end to leaf spring, and you will then have a wider range of wheels to consider in 114.3. Stock suspension is too limited in damper and brake options, and if you end up going 4age as planned, you will want better brakes anyway. And in the UK, AE86 based parts is a no brainer

I responded to your JNC post which presumably you read. It's too easy to get the exact parts you need from around the world these days to do some dodgy make it fit job. Do it properly and get your rear springs reset and wheels that fit. Think seriously about your suspension plans, as if you elect to change strut's & brakes after, your pcd will almost certainly change too. The reality is that TE27 parts differ substantially from KE20 bits, and they were only seen in any quantities in Japan or the US.

If you are only running 55/60W globes, surely ceramic plugs are overkill?

Get some H4 osram night breaker globes cheap from Germany and you will poo your pants.

What are the struts out of? Pretty pointless post without pics. pads can be identified by shape. I have a bendix pad catalogue that shows the pads in actual size.

I think they changed when they went FWD. The beginning of the end......

My understanding is that there were 151E's (1600) and 152E'S (2 litre) that were produced in Japan and the 151E was fitted to the car that won in Finland. I assume that as TTE was a fledgling operation in those days, they arranged for Schnitzer to develop the engine for them. Schnitzer then and now were a tuning business. If you look at "Lakes 5" above, there is the comment that the 2 litre engine was to go into the Celica, as it wasn't homologated for the Corolla. The following season TTE's efforts moved to Celica's Of interest, the guy who apparently owns the original 1000 Lakes TE27 now, has uploaded the homologation documents that came with the car. You can see them here: https://www.flickr.c...s/23909393@N04/, complete with chassis number. Edit: there are also some rather interesting photo's. Schnitzer went on to develop wild Turbo engines for RA Celica's for the German DTM series

Have you checked you have power at the injectors? Sounds like it is possibly starting on the cold start injector then stalling. If not, check your injector wiring and relays

There has been a lot written about AE86 struts into KE2x. Use the search function and all will be revealed. Main issue is the KE2x steering arm has a different bolt spacing which you need to resolve by sourcing TE27 steering arms from japan (expensive) or US (less expensive, but people have woken up and source these cheaply to sell on). Modern alternatives (techno toy tuning) are available but will be obvious modern additions. You will face the same problem whichever later strut you use. Next problem is that the stub axle inclination of the AE86 arms tends toward positive camber in a KE2x. The diameter of the springs etc means there is minimal room to move the strut top inward to compensate, but if you use different lower control arms you can presumably get around that. MX32 Cressida arms are another option you may find locally.

Cheapest way to do it is source a T series 6.7inch housing from a TE27 in Japan. They come up occasionally and don't generally cost too much. This will bolt straight in and take a centre from an AE86. Lots of ratios and aftermarket centres. Of course you would need to modify the rear flange on the tailshaft. Otherwise you need to cut something down to size and move the leaf spring mounts etc. Judging by your shed, you may well have the expertise and equipment to do just that! TA2x. RA2x, RA4x, AE86. Whatever you can access.

And because too much rallying TE27 is never enough, here is Portugal a month earlier. Worth it at least for the photo on page 2. Portugal 1.pdf portugal 2.pdf portugal 3.pdf portugal 4.pdf portugal 5.pdf portugal 6.pdf

honda.pdf

So following on in a similar vein, but with something a little closer to my heart. It's August 1975, and I can almost smell the pine tree's....... Interestingly, Toyota never initially planned on entering. A young Ari Vatanen's comment on crashing out, "I remembered the bend too late". Ahh Finland! lakes 1.pdf lakes 2.pdf lakes 3.pdf lakes 4.pdf lakes 5.pdf

You could buy some woodgrain contact that gets used in kitchens. If they still make it (showing my age there). Realistically I reckon thats what Toyota used anyway I would think you could apply it around bends with judicious use of a hairdryer. Otherwise you would have to buy the dash parts from a model that came with woodgrain. Modify sometimes has these. You could ask him to keep a lookout for you. Off the top of my head, I think the overseas SL models were the ones with woodgrain. Edit: You would need to get your parts scrupulously clean to be confident it would stick, and spend a large amount of time cutting the contact to size.

$AUD160! Lets hope if some rich rollaclubber buys it, he takes pity on the rest of us and puts up some scans!

Presumably there was an AE112 that came with rear discs. Find one of those at the wreckers and buy everything to switch over. I don't know where you are (update your profile), but there look to be a few of that year range at Centre Rd wreckers & also pickapart that you could check out.

Spare fuel circuit relay

You can download it yourself here http://www.aeu86.org/technical/ae86-manuals/ Has the engine been sitting a longtime? Injectors may need a good clean. And what colour are they?

According to the repco catalogue, AE90 radiators are 325mm high, 665mm wide & 16mm thick. Top hose roughly in the centre, bottom hose on left hand side looking from the back. There is no listing for a KE50. Start measuring. However, even if you can physically fit it in, don't underestimate the problem with mounting it. The bottom of the radiator has moulded lugs that slot into rubber bushed brackets either bolted or welded to the lower radiator support panel. And it also has brackets that are fitted to the top radiator support that press the radiator down into these lugs. Years ago I worked out that I could put a V6 Camry radiator into my AE86 (mainly for the twin core) but even with that I had to add in new brackets at the bottom, and reposition the top brackets. Not as simple as just bolting in a re cored KE50 radiator with adapted hose outlets........

Incredibly common in these cars. The inner guard and chassis rail are invariably damaged by battery acid. A good thing is that the TE chassis has the battery on the right front looking at the car from front on, whereas the KE chassis locates the battery on the left. If you can locate a wrecked KE chassis in the US, you may be able to obtain a pristine replacement cut. Pretty uncommon I gather. As we only got the KE chassis in Aus, unfortunately not really an option for us.