parrot

I followed this guide after fitting a 4AC top thermo housing with the fan switch to my RWD bottom housing in my AE86. Works a treat. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/95-Guide-How-to-wire-up-thermofans?highlight=Thermo+fan

Trawling around on the interwebs, looking for something that Mrs Parrot can buy me for xmas (since she never got me anything for my birthday.....) I got thinking about ultrasonic cleaners. Numerous videos to watch on youtube, including lots of interesting efforts with people making homemade vibration jobbies attaching sanders to jars etc. Purpose built made in China ultrasonic cleaners are not too unreasonably priced, if you keep to a maximum of 6litre capacity. Anyone have any experience with these things? As an example, this 6 litre model is $186 but they have a make an offer option

I don't know. Having stated that, it occurs to me this is likely to be better than a flogged out second hand 30 year old carb that you are otherwise likely to use with gummed up passages and flogged out, leaking throttle shafts. BUT, if you need to alter jets, etc to suit your motor's characteristics, you may find they do not interchange with OEM, and that gasket/seal/accel pumps sets are different. If you look at trade catalogues for carby kits and the like, you find there are myriad changes and variations from model to model (and within models), and I think it is naive to assume / and questionable to advertise that one carb suits such a wide range of applications Once upon a time you could take your carby to a carburettor specialist to get it properly cleaned and overhauled. But in these days of almost universal throttle bodies, I'm not sure any of the old shops still exist. I would be inclined to take your OEM original to one of those if you can find onne, and get it assessed and overhauled. At least then you know that what you have fitted is precisely suited to your engine. I suspect for about the same cost or less than the generic ebay item, you can have your original carb overhauled and purring.

Where still here and loving it!

That reminds me. I was going to sling you an extra $10 for the spacers. I'll do that now via paypal.

For what is a pretty common question. I was surprised that I couldn't find a comparo image on google Put up a couple of pics of your box and some basic detail of what it is fitted to and I'm sure you will get an ID

Carburettor float level?

A while back I discovered that for a 4AGE equipped AE86, that a VZV21 V6 Camry radiator, plus the subsequent V6 camry whatever that is, are a twin row option (rather than standard single row) that looks factory, is the same height and has hose outlets positioned correctly, and fits with some modest mounting rejigging. It's wider too (at 710mm), but I worked on the premise that it means extra cooling fluid capacity and still gets plenty of airflow without bothering enlarging the front aperture. That also had twin thermo fans standard.

It would be worthwhile mentioning what you want to put it into

Can you post a photo of the clip you need? Also, when you say the brakes get stuck, is it all of them or just one? Could be a caliper or wheel cylinder that is the problem. I thought you had changed your master cylinder.

Ha! Mind you, it looks like that thing was rocket propelled.

I just came across some speedo drive gears in the shed. I have various box requirements so have them for assorted Toyota's. i.e yours may not look exactly the same. Here you can see one in it's housing, and one removed. Have noticed they don't all have a circlip to hold in the rod, looks only to be the later T50 type so you may not have one of those.

Presumably managing isn't a convenient euphemism for driving...... :)

There is an internal metal gear with a certain number of teeth in the gearbox, and another speedo drive gear with various numbers of teeth (depending on the original vehicle specification) made of plastic. The latter you can remove easily from the hole in the gearbox where the speedo cable attaches. Unscrew the speedo cable, remove the bolt that holds the little retainer plate, and the driven gear complete with its housing should ease out. The gear assembly itself is kept in place by a fancy circlip. Usually the number of teeth on the gear is pressed into it (or you can count them!) You need to work out the correct combination for your specific situation as you have a gearbox from one car and crown wheel and pinion from another, plus tyre sizes that weren't available back when KE70's were made. There are tables around on the internet that allow you to work out what you need. For late T50's for example, there are at least two different inner gears, and about 4 driven gears. From memory, the speedo driven gear from K boxes are different length and diameter from those in a T box. It sounds hard, but actually it is pretty simple as long as you can locate the right driven gear. The internal gear is way too hard to bother with. I don't know for sure, but it may be as easy as swapping the driven gear from the K40 into the K50, depending on whether the inner gear has the same number of teeth. It has nothing to do with the cable itself.

I popped this up a while back which may (or may not) help. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/61441-weber-settings/page__p__619800__hl__+weber%20+settings#entry619800

True. I'm sure he is confusing the dear old KE55 with a drift pig doof doof KE70

I suggested that to my wife. She just gave a dismissive sniff. Apparently there are more than enough corolla parts around the house as it is......

Strolling around the beautiful south gippsland country side over the Melbourne Cup weekend, my eye was drawn to this piece of artwork in a gallery. Can't quite see it on my wall, but may take someone's fancy. It's got altezzaclub written all over it, or perhaps corollaart might pop it up on the living room wall. Takumitax? I can already see KE55 parts escalating thanks to the mcphersontax.

I used to think the same as you, but not having touched a drum brake for years till recently, I've come over all nostalgic. And while discs are easier, are they really necessary?

I've got a repco radiator catalogue that says a KE3x, KE5x radiator is twin core, 467mm wide. The core is 300mm high plus you would need to add about 50mm each for the top and bottom header tanks.

Mechanicals are so easy in these that it really is body condition that determines price. Some people value originality and avoid cars with a respray, others would see it as a plus, but as above it makes it difficult to know the true condition of what lies beneath and creates doubt. What isn't in doubt is thatvalues are going up, but a pile of junk is still a pile of junk. I can't imagine anyone paying more than $4000 for an immaculate original RWC KE30. Then it's all downhill from there depending on a close inspection.

Edited!

He drove fast on dirt. I know my place! So Lockie, are you going to have a go at doing all this stuff yourself? It sounds like you have some people around to guide you with it. 1969 sprinter is down in Tassie (he has a KE15) and is probably around your age. You should hit him up as I think he's doing similar stuff

I'm agreeing with you!

And a MILD cam. Side draught carburettors are also very nice, but not worth the attention they will draw from idiots wanting to race you, and also the police. Some twin down draught factory carbs (i.e. 3KB carbs) willl give you plenty of breathing with the abovementioned mods but without extra hassle.