parrot

Realistically you might get $2000 if you fixed it and sold it. $500 to $1000 if you traded it in on a new car. I would say the prices are reasonable except for the front and rear dampers. A quick look on ebay tells me you can get a pair of rears for $150 and fronts for $200. They should be easy enough to replace with a moderate amount of mechanical know how and a day of your time. The bolt may be difficult or easy depending on how much is proud of the engine. The clamp can be replaced easily assuming the boot isn't split. But if your not interested in changing your own wiper blades, I would question your motivation. That's meant nicely. Realistically if you need the car on the road, don't have tools, skill or time - then your stuck.

I have never understood the modern phenomena of people throwing coilovers at road cars. Regular McPherson struts are great with appropriate geometry for a road car. I think most people who put coilovers in guess at spring rates with unmatched dampers, the former usually too hard, and bottom the car out so it "looks good". You should be able to access some suitable sensibly lowered springs and matching dampers to go in your existing struts. You will likely be pleasantly surprised at the result, save lots of cash, and still enjoy driving the car. Putting macintosh coat on now..........

You're all a bunch of girls. It is red so doubly desirable (in my opinion). I say go for it, but you would want to seriously renegotiate the price.

Shouldn't be too hard to find a crossmember. Getting harder to find bits and pieces, but realistically you should be able to find whatever you need. Some exterior trim parts are getting fairly pricey these days.

Just do a new post

Hi Chris Make sure you put a post in the wanted to buy section, as I suspect not a lot of people look in the TE corolla discussion forum, largely as the only TE Corolla we saw in Australia was the TE72. Having said that, the KE25 is the same car with a T engine, so ask for one out of a KE25. You don't see many KE25's with aircon however. Whilst looking for the specific model, I would see if you can get one from a Crown from the same period. These were far more likely to have aircon in view of aiming more at the luxury end. I really don't think AC evaporators are much changed even up through the 80's. so if required, you could easily use one from a later model without it being particularly obvious. Assuming you are US based, also ask on 3TCgarage.com & japanesenostalgiccar.com When you get the car, make sure you put a thread up in the Rollaclub Rides forum here!

Do you have the links to the TE27 sales brochures mentioned at the bottom?

The US TE27's have always been a bit of a mystery, so the comparison there is quite interesting. We never got them unfortunately. I was always curious as to which of the US models actually had a T series rear end.

And bucket seats with headrests are also an important safety upgrade. Highly doubt you could legally fit seats without.

http://seatbeltsolutions.com.au/ I haven't used them myself, but have them referenced for future use. Edit: By the way, you can get original TE27 inertia reel belts from the US if you look around. You could conceivably then get these redone with replacement webbing etc This is my plan.

The bolt and the little plate thing holds the speedo drive in. You don't remove that. Put it back on noting the speedo drive has a recess for it on one side only. Then you unscrew the large knurled retainer and the speedo cable just pulls out. If necessary use multigrips to loosen it.

Did you install the seal with the seal packing on the outside? I can only think the seal wasn't quite seated and it got flicked out by the camshaft. I really doubt it's a crankcase pressure thing. I would brace the breather pipe, as putting load on an unreinforced section of the cam covers may lead to it cracking.

Old thread resurrection. There is a guy selling these on yahoo japan. Do note he sells them in pairs. http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p455253555

Sorry, that's as much as I can tell you. I'm just looking at the factory wiring diagrams, and the later KE55 Gregories. It will be some sort of basic switch that completes the circuit to earth when the fluid drops below a particular level. Clearly it isn't a pressure switch. You simply need to use a multimeter from the wire at the dash warning light (which should be red/white) and test the various wires in the vicinity of the master cylinder (which should be green/white or red/white) for continuity till you find the right one.

Below applies to 30 series The 1976 EWD shows the same as what I said above. The 1978 EWD shows a red/white wire instead, but apparently this was only for England. So essentially there will be an earth plus a wire out to the warning light.

I had a look in the Gregory's KE55 Manual. The electrical wiring diagram shows a white/black to earth and a green/white to the warning lamp. The green/white actually changes to red/white at the bulb check relay. The thing you have arrowed is the switch

Looks fantastic! What did you decide about the diff in the end? I can't imagine there would be sufficient pressure build up through the engine sufficient to blow out the cam seal. You're meant to use seal packing goop on the outside of the seal, not install it dry. Did you do that?

Slightly off topic, but there was what looked like a Honda 600 at Centre Rd yesterday

With modern computerised milling machines etc, are modern cylinder heads much of an improvement such that such work is superfluous on say 2010 onward (as a random date) engine? Or are casting marks, port surfaces and port approaches as crappy as ever?

TE crossmember is different to KE with respect to the actual engine mounts, but otherwise identical in all other respects. In other words, mounting points to chassis and suspension take offs. Tie bars, steering components such as tie rods and ball joints are common across the range as are all front bushes. TE struts/brakes are completely different including insert diameter. Steering knuckles have different bolt spacing so you can't just bolt struts from one into the other. There are some variations in the rear depending on age of the car and local specifications. You should check which rear axle you have. There are 2 rear bushing sizes dependent on build date. Edit: sorry just saw it was a 1974 which means you have the larger rear bushings.

The tyre size and rim width is in that thread. if you have stock wheels you can measure the offset yourself

Look down 3 posts

As I understand there were a couple of shades of grey across the model range, but you won't find an accurate, "Toyota used this colour code" Basically there was a lighter and a darker gunmetal grey colour, so I would suggest you choose whichever you prefer.

Well that isn't the way things are done here, usually we are a friendly understanding lot and I'm surprised the person in question hasn't elected to explain his side of the story.

Frankly, if something is described on this website as a genuine from a KE1x SL gearknob and is subsequently not a genuine from a KE1x SL gear knob I would expect that person to accept their mistake in describing it as so and issue a refund on return of goods. This isn't ebay, and we are a bunch of likeminded enthusiasts. If it was described as such, you have been dudded. Benefit of the doubt to them that they may have believed it so. However it isn't so. And I should have realised my earlier mistake, you didn't buy these aftermarket knobs from your friendly local parts supplier, you bought it from a Speed shop. Those were the days. Edited for an iPhone induced spelling error.