parrot

Millions of reliable Corollas tell you the design is sound, so it has to be a fault somewhere between the tank and carb, rather than a need to re engineer the car. Which I don't doubt would be a work of art, just unneccessary. Surely it has to be a transient blockage somewhere?

Depends on type of gauge, mechanical or electrical, do you have senders etc

That wheel /tyre profile should be much better. Judging by the dizzy cap and the plugs, if you give the engine and radiator a good reverse flush with a hose and replace the thermostat, your cooling function may return. I would seriously consider replacing the hoses too. They are likely to be pretty marginal. The stocko cooling fan should be perfectly adequate. If it isn't, the issue is elsewhere in the cooling system. The faded red paint is standard from that era, may well come up with a good cut and polish.

The TRD metal headgaskets are designed for multiple use.

Sounds great! The 16's will completely screw the gearing and feel of the car. Just get some stock 14 inch twin cam alloys for bugger all cash. It will transform it.

And for gods sake, get rid of the 16's. Gearing will be awful. Put some sensible 14's on with tyres no bigger than 185's

AE82's had a 4age big port or a 4ac carb engine. The 4age filter box is of course a direct bolt in. There is a hole in the inner guard for some sort of cold intake from memory. No 4afe's. Agree with altezza, just drive it for a year and think about things over that time. It's a fun revvy light car with not a lot of torque. It feels fast though really it isn't. Aggressive cams in a big port just make your usable rev range to narrow and too high in the range. If you are going to go to that effort you really need to think about aftermarket ecu's and various other issues. I wouldn't bother with that in a FWD car. Just put a 20 valve in instead. But drive it for a year first.

The hard bit to get is the filter box. The really hard bit to get is the specific cable bracket on top of the rocker cover. The unobtanium bit is the correct cable. I reckon they are better than a downdraft weber since they rarely get set up properly anyway. If you are going to make the effort to put one or two side drafts on, then you are probably going to be modifying other things too. And the likelihood is the carbs will need a major rebuild inc throttle shaft(s). For someone who likes originality and hasn't gone serious on modification, they are a good, well matched intake option. But yes, for the average person I wouldn't think they were worth much more than $200- 250. The airbox adds value though.

Good plugs are definitely worthwhile, but I wouldn't put them in anything that oils the plugs. I use the fancy nippondenso's. For the type of driving you do, just use the standard heat range. Extractors are a total waste of time on a standard motor, but if they are already there, what the hey. I always use Toyota oil filters, but I gather even ryco's have an anti drain valve in them these days. Just make sure whatever you use has a valve in it. Make sure the distributor heat shield is in place, especially with the extractors, or you will fry the ignition module. I would make an effort to shield it even more because of the extractors. I would get rid of the pod. Put an airbox back in it. The stock airbox from memory already has cold air ducting. Pods just add noise and nothing else, and can reduce kw. You can always get a K & N filter to go in the airbox if you feel so inclined. If the bottom end has good compression and you feel compelled to do something to the engine, just put a TRD 0.8 mm metal head gasket in it. Otherwise, leave it alone and enjoy it.

Welcome Canvas Unfortunately there is no way to confirm that you have a matching numbers car UNLESS you have the original paperwork and books at the time of sale. These should record the engine number. The car build plate at that time did not incorporate the engine number. If it isn't a 3K then it definitely isn't original. There were various variants of 3K's, 3K - C's, 3K-H's etc, which will be noted on the build plate, so that may give you a clue as to possibility of original engine, or more likely rule it out if it doesn't match.

3FC is just Toyota code for a 3 speed floor shift auto. I expect you will find it is also an A40

If you scroll down 6 threads, you will see the TE72 wiring diagrams which I think are relevant to this cluster.

Same, plus always good to have a piece of high density rubber to protect the car and minimise slippage. Or at least it would be if I could fit a jack underneath the AE86.....

What ever you do, DO NOT put a trolley jack under the factory jacking points. Only use those with the scissor jack that came with the car.

What pressure and paint/thinner ratio did you go with on your colour coats?

If you just need to move it around, just bolt a ke2x axle in place. I am not aware of anything stronger that bolts in. I have a spare Te27 diff I am vaguely thinking I may bolt in one day , but haven't measured it up. I expect it will be a little wider. You could just use a TA22 diff and cut it down/ weld on mounts etc which would give you a 6.7 T series That still won't be cheap though

They are still available. Make sure you change the rubber seal as well

I have some Recaro LS's in my AE86 out of a JZA70. For these I got some purpose built seat mounts via Japan on Yahoo. You could have a look on there. There are various sellers listing them for TE27's for example. If you can't see them, get import monster to enquire of one of these sellers if they can supply for KE55's. They weren't very expensive, look well made and work well

Your budget automatically dictates that you stay with a K motor. As above, check the condition of what you already have, before deciding whether to modify it or replace with a bigger K. Best bet is probably rebuild if required, and basic mods as per the rollaclub wiki. Car clubs are great places to learn how to do these things yourself. That's what I did, and 30 years later they have proved lifelong friends. i am sure you will have no problem finding people to help you. Good luck

I spent a lot of time searching filter catalogues and found this was the closest in dimension to the paper filter that came with the box. It is for a SAAB 900. The K&N number is 33-2663 http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=33-2663 If you use the close up feature on the photo, you will note that on the narrow end of the filter there is a middle step. I had to trim that flush with the inner section on one end only. I then ran a smear of black silicon over it to seal. It fits very snugly and seals perfectly. You will see what needs removing when you try to fit it unmodified. By far the cheapest place to buy these in Australia at least was ebay from the US. A quick ebay search with that part number will give you lots of options. Of course you could also get an OEM filter which would be cheaper still.

Done. Thanks for all the advice guys, much appreciated. 2010 ST-L petrol switchable 4WD with leather etc.

What about stevexc? He seems to know what he is doing. I was half tempted to ask him to do my albino's

I'm with KE70dave. Spend the money buying the best AE92 SX twincam you can find. It is far more likely to be reliable than any KE30 you find, and a far better car for the cash.

No such thing as TE16. I suspect Benny Boy has been done in by the old iphone spellchecker.

Thanks Rod. Yes I saw something about clutches but it's fair to say I am pretty easy on them over many years. The only issues really seem to those you mentioned, and CVT problems in the pre T31's. Driving my wife's Auto Subaru has reminded me of how much I hate auto's, so it's manuals for me. Not any serious 4WD Dave, more weekend fishing and camping stuff. Plus I like the idea of being able to put it in auto mode when appropriate. The Renault also has the 4WD on front wheel slip and it is pretty good in general driving.