parrot

That's a nice 25. I'm surprised Dave sold it, though when you have 11ty billion cars....

Oil pressure light sender is a simple off/on and won't work with a gauge. You can still use the light in concert with a gauge if you use a brass T piece from the block. Specific gauges will require specific senders and it makes no sense not to use those from the manufacturer

Sorry I should clarify. By factory I actually mean dealer fitted.

Factory option VDO tacho. They come along from time to time.

Another remote possibility, check the low tension circuit from the coil to the points (if you have no spark and you have a point gap). Sometimes the wire can break at the distributor body. A common issue on my old Datsun 1200

You need to match the speedo gearing. There is an inner helical gear and an outer plastic gear. The inner is moderately complicated to change, the outer plastic gear (on the end of the rod the speedo cable slots into) simply pulls out of the speedo drive hole. Not sure if the k40 and k50 outer gears are identical size wise, but be aware they can be obtained with assorted teeth numbers to suit various diff ratios for the models they were originally fitted to.

HA HA HA HA! And pay $200 for programming. Stepfather had to do it n his pathfinder and eventually found the procedure on line. It will be somewhere.

Just checking you did all this http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Lowering_KE1x_Front_using_KE2x_parts

Another person risking his sanity http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=24371

However there are early and late springs that differ in the size of the front bush.

Going by a windscreen catalogue I have, the KE50 glass dimensions are quite different to KE30, 35, 36, 38, 55

I haven't seen one anywhere. Neither the front or rear te27 guards have a lip, and the rear guard construction is also different. I understand to fit them perfectly to the rear of A KE2x you need to cut and reconfigure the guard. Depends on how perfect you want it to be. I am going to sell a pair of genuine metal front flares now, to go with the spare fibreglass rears

Pah! Modern tat. http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Blocks Sorry Luke, your answer (YES) is in the link above

Is there any other type....

Well that would be less less less less easy. B-Lugg has put it pretty succinctly for you.

There was one at centre rd wreckers last week. Didn't take much notice other than that it was painted with a brush but probably worth a look. There's usually one there

Great new show on Channel 4 in the UK. First episode they fix up a mark 1 Mexico http://www.channel4.com/programmes/for-the-love-of-cars/4od#3688588 If you can't see it, download Hola as an unblocker.

08/1978-02/1984 TOYOTA HILUX RN3*,4*,LN3*,4* 08/1978-06/1983 TOYOTA PICKUP RN3*,4*,LN40 03/1979-01/2000 TOYOTA STOUT RK110,YK110 Good info. Project Sprinter as you may have seen is looking to make the 2 piece sets as he already has for KE15/17's. Not sure how far away they are.

Never heard of a twin SU manifold for a 2T, but doesn't mean it wasn't available. I have an old warneford catalogue at home, I'll check that, but who knows what was available in other markets. There was of course the factory twin downdraft manifold as fitted to 2TB's which ran twin Aisan's. Pretty rare these days, and unless you get the correct carbs with it, you would need to play with jetting etc. In the past I ran a 2T with stock carb, 32/36 DCD, and also twin weber 40 DCOE's. In conjunction with other mods (headwork, cam, compression etc) the engine was dramatically more responsive/revvy with the twin dcoe's compared to the single dcd. It really depends on what you are planning for the car.

Like a te31 is a e31 chassis with a t series - CORRECT Look on 3TCgarage.com people are always wrecking these on there.

I'm pretty sure Joel is US based. So 3T is probably his easiest option. The diff problem however is universal unfortunately

Do you mean the dampers have failed? If original, the tubes are oil filled with a removable piston with valving. Not worth trying to fix them. Better to replace with new inserts. Not easy to find, but have a look in the FAQ for ideas

Good man! There must be a forum around for an e120. I have found with our late model cars that common sense and intuition are redundant, but almost always you can find the answer on an obscure forum somewhere, or funnily enough on youtube. I must say it is nice knowing you can just get in and turn the key and know your modern car will start. And all you really need to do is change the oil regularly, put up with high wearing brakes, and accept an expensive cam belt change eventually.

Too true.... On our old V50 Volvo there was an issue with the climate control being excessively noisy. I never dig around under the dash of daily driver cars, especially under warranty.... At the dealer it was fixed by downloading a software update. My old Peugeot 307 (don't buy one) had a fault with the steering wheel mounted down volume switch not working after they had replaced the $1000 indicator switch unit - for the third time after the indicator switch broke again. Same story, latest software, fixed. Apparently the switch computer had to speak to the body computer which then communicates with the radio computer. Moral of the story, buy a KE20. It may be draughtly, old, rusty and not have an airbag, but at least you can fix it yourself

You will be trying to put a coil sprung, trailing arm set up into a leaf sprung recipient. It won't work without a huge amount of fabrication. And unless you are building a sports sedan race car, a complete waste of time. But if you try, do put up a build thread! Such things have certainly been done, but unless you are confident as a welder, and able to work out the suspension geometry, I would give it a miss