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parrot

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Everything posted by parrot

  1. parrot
    You will be trying to put a coil sprung, trailing arm set up into a leaf sprung recipient. It won't work without a huge amount of fabrication. And unless you are building a sports sedan race car, a complete waste of time. But if you try, do put up a build thread! Such things have certainly been done, but unless you are confident as a welder, and able to work out the suspension geometry, I would give it a miss
  2. parrot
    This may (or may not) give you some guidance http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/61441-weber-settings/page__p__619800__hl__+weber#entry619800
  3. parrot
    There are extra wide aftermarket fibreglass versions available via Japan. There was in fact an earlier and later version of the TE27 metal flares from factory. There is one version from 7203 - 7304 & another version 7304 - 7403 and I have confirmed they are NLA. Trueno and Levin flares were common to each other. I think the difference is that one version (possibly the earlier ones) are slightly shorter in length. Of note, the factory retainer screws are worth almost as much as the flares! I have recently picked up a set of genuine flares, so have a pair of rear fibreglass flares available for $125.
  4. parrot
    As MS says. If you source a LHD pedal box from USA, you get around the master cylinder location issues and your need for hydraulic clutch actuation. Don't assume that a TA22 pedal box will bolt into a KE30. Certainly it is quite different to a TE27 setup for example. Yes you can muck around and modify one, as .T. on this forum has done. Bear in mind he is rather good at this sort of thing. Check his thread for a perspective of what is required. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/68457-my-ke25-4agte-irs-project/ In Australia we are in a similar predicament as you. K engined Corolla's and lots of TA22's. Unfortunately not a lot carries over from a TA22 to a KE30 to make a TE3x. Seriously consider getting the pedal box and engine crossmember from USA, you will save yourself considerable grief, and ensure everything fits where it should. A TE27 basically uses TA22 front brakes. I would look into this further as a possible way of uprating your brakes appropriately for your TE3x build in an effective, budget fashion. If you have easy access to a TA22 engine crossmember, you could do some comparative measurements first to explore that option.
  5. parrot
    Left Hand Drive? Ideally source a pedal box from a TE3x, which will deal with the brake and clutch issue in one swoop. Whilst there, get the accelerator linkage across the firewall as well. Should have little difficulty sourcing one in the USA. Look on 3TCgarage. If I was you I would source the correct engine crossmember too. You may find the gearbox crossmember is common, but not sure on that. The front brakes are probably a little bigger on the TE3x. Could probably swap in TA22 struts using the KE3x tops? I had a TA22 with a stock bottom end 2TC with just a ported & shaved head, extractors and twin 40 dcoe's on it years back and it was quicker than my mates stock 2TG
  6. parrot
    Basically you can run a oil pressure gauge via an electric sensor, or a pressure line. Depends on what type of gauge you get. Electric sender is neater but the sender can be a little pricey. You can still run an idiot light with either, you just screw a t piece into the block where the oil pressure light sender is. Really you need to decide on what brand of gauges you want to run and see what they offer. You don't need a sandwich plate of any type, just run them from the current oil pressure sender location.
  7. parrot
    Kevin Dennis?
  8. parrot
    Sorry, I'm fixating on KE15/17's as usual. The Japanese market had access to far more options than ever came here. See scans of the Aust SL brochure. Specifications and "Sport Features" detailed on the last page. SL 1.pdf SL 2.pdf SL 3.pdf SL 4.pdf Note the cars photographed are presumably K engined rather than 3K, no 1200 badges
  9. parrot
    Everything was optional on any car, SL or otherwise. Boot badge isn't different. The only SL specific changes from memory are the compression (10:1), cam duration, twin carbs with slightly different jetting plus actuation, I think the exhaust manifold is different, and the SL badges, instrument cluster and steering wheel. I think virtually no Aust cars would have ticked the headrest option, so rare to finf them
  10. parrot
    Looks pretty clear to me B-Lugg? I think you are just going to have to try and get it pulling as straight as possible and make sure there is as little flex as possible. Easier said than done I know.
  11. parrot
    Squashed, upside down red TA22 on the back of a flatbed truck going up Rosanna Rd?
  12. parrot
    Fluffy dice could put an eye out if you go around a corner too rapidly.
  13. parrot
    If you look at it from the right angle (standing on your head whilst having your testicles squeezed) you could almost swear it was a Gulf GT40. As in ford, not Bosch.
  14. parrot
    Ha!!! 25%!!!!! Just wait till they hit school and start playing eleventy billion different sports. Cricket, football, hockey, swimming, domestic basketball, rep basketball, gym. Then there are all the trainings, committee meetings, team manager thingies etc etc. Was that console off the UK guy? That WAS a good buy.
  15. parrot
    So they have this newfangled thing called google......... http://www.coordsport.de/de/page/hks-tuning-parts
  16. parrot
    Carbs are all well and good, but you can't beat the turn key simplicity of a well setup EFI. Starts first time every time is pretty nice on a cold wet morning when you have to get to work, or you have to get the kids somewhere. I realise a good electronic ignition helps there too though. But optimising mixtures through the driving range is pretty simple with EFI, lot harder to achieve with carbs which get out of synch etc etc. But for the motivated enthusiast with a wonder dog, they are unbeatable!
  17. parrot
    Great job mate!
  18. parrot
    Nooooo.... Can't wait till tomorrow!!
  19. parrot
    Handbrake console Edit: Shagpile?
  20. parrot
    Steering wheel, instrument binnacle & switch to right of heater controls?
  21. parrot
    Sorry Gary. I'm going purely from the exploded part diagrams. Assuming from Terryo's post you are after the countershaft, you should be able to use the KE20 part in your KE1x box. Swapping the entire box in is a different issue I can't comment on.
  22. parrot
    Pre 6903 is a different part number for the whole transmission for both KE10/15........ Why? The master catalog (printed Nov 72) says the Counter Gear shaft 33411-19015 is common to KE1x & KE2x. However I also have an English language part book (printed Sept 69) for the KE11 series and a JDM book for KE17 which says the countershaft is 33411-12010. A quick google of 33411-12010 tells me via various suspiciously similar US based part sites, that 33411-19015 replaced 33411-12010. So if they are correct, likely you could cannibalize a KE2x K40 for the counter shaft
  23. parrot
    Old deteriorated petrol most likely. Go very light on the grease.
  24. parrot
    I'm almost certain I have scanned the whole thing and posted it up somewhere. Might be in the Motorsport section amongst the early corolla thread. It's here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/62432-te-25-or-te-27-historic-nc-racer/page__st__15
  25. parrot
    S series rear wheel cylinders look to be 13/16. KE2x were available with either 3/4 or 13/16, so you may be alright there. Just suss out whether the booster will fit in position. The TE27 booster is small (7.5 inches?) and the master cylinder is situated very close to the strut tower.
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