parrot

Exactly. I'm such a techno retard.....

OK, bear with me here. The distance between the front 9mm diameter hole and the rear 6mm hole is 40mm centre to centre The front hole is 55mm from the inner edge of the guard to centre hole(i.e. the edge that sits next to the bonnet when closed) The rear hole is 56mm from the inner edge of the guard to centre hole. For placement of the front 9mm hole do as follows. Looking at the bolt holes that mount the guard to the body. The distance between the second mounting hole from the front to the third mounting hole is 185mm centre to centre. If you measure back 95 mm from the second (front) hole, and draw a 90 degree line with pencil, that is the location of the centre of the front hole. EDIT: Make sure you measure twice and drill once, ONLY after you satisfy yourself the placement of holes tallies with the photo's! No responsibility taken etc

I have some TE27 guards here, I'll measure them up

If your welds don't penetrate, there is a very good likelihood you will kill yourself when the welds let go. Seriously, get it done professionally. It won't cost too much and you won't always wonder if it is going to let go

Ha! How far have you come since you first hit rollaclub.

How awesome is that!

You won't get far with those hammers and dollies! You got it for free, you are better of sourcing some better replacement doors and guards which should be available pretty cheap, rather than trying to fix those. Waste of time and by the time you buy all the stuff you will need probably cheaper buying panels. The tail light you will need to do though, but shouldn't be too hard to get the profile closer and use way less filler. Then you will probably find it will run without a fault for another 20 years.

Yep to that

It's an old engine, lots of kms, use old style oil. If you use some whizz bang low viscosity oil it will blow up.

Amen to HPR 30. Just use a name brand 20W 50

Nice job. Looks factory! The rubber collars are usually buggered from years of heat and exposure and you are lucky it didn't tear. Only real option is to push it out from under the dash, but that is just as likely to tear it.

It's a completely different car

Just go to one of the trim/rubber guys like Bill Thompson. http://www.autorubbers.com.au/ If he doesn't have the exact clip, he will have something that does the exact same job

Button clutches are horrible around town, and a really good way to attract attention from the law as you bunny hop starting off around corners. But presumably not too much traffic up your way so perhaps manageable. Why not have a chat to your brake and clutch place, if they are any good, and see what can be done pressure plate and/or linings wise. Many years back we used to go to a place in Berkeley Street in Central Melbourne just behind Ryans Tools. They would make up anything you needed, riveting this diaphragm to that pressure plate. Rather than selling something off the shelf. Ryans is certainly no more (very sad day that), and a quick google search tells me that 97 Berkeley St was sold off a few years ago to become apartments. Wade Cams used to be just up the road then too......

Nope

RT40 Corona's never had a bvsv valve.

I reckon people are going to want copies of that for the shed wall for sure

You could also buy them at a Wheel shop, and probably pay more than what you paid for the wheels.

I had a big compression L20B once. Not sure how much was off as I bought it like that, but it was a lot. They got around chain tension by tapping a new hole in the front of the block to locate the chain slide further inward. That worked great, until I put the head back on with a spacer and put the slide back in it's original holes without noticing the newly tapped hole. Unfortunately the bolt hole they had tapped went straight into the water jacket, and all the water pumped out of the jacket and into the sump.

Shamelessly stolen from JNC who posted it. http://www.carvideos.eu/wheeler-dealers-trading-up-2013-episodes/wheeler-dealers-trading-up-2013-japan-episode/ Great episode, showing what happens at Japan Car auctions, and then he ends up with an old Celica......

You'll be waiting a while!

No ducktails or chin spoilers for me. I have sourced some period correct Enkei Rally wheels in 13 x 6, not a fan of the pressed steel rims. Also don't think they look right with 14's or larger, although tyres are problematic in 13's. If I get keen and do a sprint or something in it, I could always just bung the AE86 rims/tyres on it for the day.

Everything is original, even down to correct NOS windscreen, door & boot seals and complete set of new badges (not the $2500 set on ebay recently!). Two exceptions, I have fibreglass rear flares. The front flares are genuine NOS. Plus seat skins courtesy of modify. I have put a great deal of effort into sourcing all of this stuff believe me

Wow, awesome artwork! Who did that?

Don't worry, my shell has rust too. My shell came from the same seller. It was only worth doing since I was going to build a replica anyway and had all the bits. If you just want to put a 2TG in and make various modifications, I certainly wouldn't bother.