parrot

Meanwhile Melbourne is in the middle of 8 continuous 30 degree days, and haven't seen any rain down here. At this rate Frankston will become the new Surfers Paradise. Just need to do something about waves.

I reckon camerondownunder will be first in line.

No it doesn't. You can look at the same build plate on the firewall. If it says T282 it is a 4.3 final drive without LSD. T283 is a 4.3 with LSD If it says T292 it is a 4.1 final drive without LSD. T293 is a 41 with LSD But of course, anything could have happened since it was built. You can do the old spin one wheel and see what the other does routine. Realistically you buy a complete assembly as above and fit a newer aftermarket centre, or have the original rebuilt as it's likely done a few miles. If you are looking at a centre out of the car, it is obvious whether it is an LSD or conventional centre. There will be others here who can advise re 1.5 ways, 2 ways etc

Just make absolutely sure your replacement complete rear assembly comes from the models mentioned above, otherwise you will likely have problems with mounting locations for trailing arms and overall width. You will notice your diff centre is held in by 8 studs. A T series diff centre has 10 studs. Not necessarily foolproof, but if you find an AE86 or TE72 locally and the centre is held in by 10 nuts, you are likely to be safe. You will also need the tailshaft. You may still need to muck around with the front handbrake cable (the short one from the inside cab lever) but easy cheap fix. Especially if you remove the brake lever and front cable from the donor. If you get a disc brake rear, try and obtain the rear brake proportioning valve from the firewall. Sound a lot of work, but a very common situation that many before you have pursued.

Look at the aluminium build plate on the firewall. It's the critical piece of information to answer your question.

Saw a seriously hot, very low, pale green bamboo KE20 with some serious side draft action this arvo crossing over the Eastern freeway up Burke rd. Very nice.

Ideally tell us the chassis code (TE72?), engine code (3TC?) and transaxle code (T292?) which are found on the build plate probably on the firewall of your engine bay. Have you ruled out a simple axle bearing rather than the actual differential centre?

There are various ways of doing it, some people use fronts, some use rears. So you need to research very carefully which hopefully you did before ordering. It depends on how you intend setting your adjustable struts up. I have SW20 fronts in mine (from memory) using T3 strut spacers, so the strut insert is at the bottom of the strut casing and doesn't bottom out. There are always people trying to sell leaking strut inserts........

And check your plug. The one on your loom is probably round. Later alternators had oval plugs, and with a repco application list, who knows what you may get!

Welcome to Rollaclub! http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/222-love-tractor-engine-life-times-18r-g.html There is a massive amount of info on toymods.org.au This is just one thread and gives you an idea of the degree of passion for 18RG's

Once you've had black, there's no going back!

You are crazy. Sell the one you have and buy one that's already manual. You my even make a profit.

A lot of that extra stuff may not be needed for the car to run properly. Until you turn on the headlights, heater etc and it won't idle. So you turn up the idle and its over 2000rpm at the traffic lights. Again, if you intend it as a daily driver, it really isn't that hard to do it properly.

Not having a go at you. Realistically, most people follow the same route you have. If you want to get really serious with a tunable motor, you need to invest in after market management. But even then you will spend buckets and it is still a 1600cc naturally aspirated motor. You need to evaluate what you really want from the car. A daily driver you do a few events in? Then it needs to be streetable (and legal). A dedicated comp car? Different again. Be realistic about your expectations. Everyone wants a fire breathing weapon on the commute to work, not many actually have one. And if they do it's a pig. 4AGE AE86's are fun nimble revvy cars that feel like they are going twice as fast as they actually are. It's not a GTR or whatever. And sort out the timing, it will make a big difference.

The ECU is fine, but it can only work with the signals it receives. Get the loom sorted. In this day and age, with accessibility to yahoo it always astonishes me that people don't source factory RWD looms. Not just the engine loom, but the engine bay ancillary loom and dash loom. If you will spend $750 plus on debatebly useful coilovers, spend a fraction of that on correct looms so the ECU knows what is going on. Cam and static timing is basic mechanics.

First of all make sure it is running as it should. All sensors connected and functional, cam timing, static timing blah blah blah. The point with factory EFI (I have no idea about your setup) is that there is basically nothing you can do to it. If you have factory management, you will benefit from a thinner head gasket, and cleaning up the head. Ignition and fuelling there is little you can do other that adding a fuel pressure regulator. The latter will improve throttle response and make it feel faster. Yes you can put cams in but the factory ECU is a limiting factor. I have done all those things and love it for what it is, a revvy, responsive zippy car. What it isn't is mega powerful. Focus on suspension, don't go stupid on wheel and tire width and enjoy driving it. If you go carbs, you can go stupid on cams. But for the cost of setting those up properly , you can aftermarket management and retain some driveability as well.

This is the grille badge. As above, same badge for the rear just without the bracket.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Corolla's! Another US based website you may like to visit www.3tcgarage.com

Wondered how you were getting on. I have to admit, after seeing the steering and dash I somewhat lost interest in your thread. To each their own but.....

It basically has its rear suspension and BW Diff with rear brakes removed. Complete front suspension with front drums. Engine with some minor stuff gone - didn't really look to see if it was a K or 3K. Gearbox looks to be a KE2x item with shifter. Steering wheel minus horn push. Manual pedal box, front and rear screen with long chrome trims, corners gone. Doors, rear quarter glass is in the boot. Bootlid with chrome but not badge. Mildly dented rear bumper thanks to the forky. Front panels destroyed in crash.

Tojo2 is on the money. Should be simple to look for one on US eBay. Just make sure they are actually located in the US

It may be one of those unsolvable mysteries....... Whatever, deeper blue or turquoise, they still look great. I'm pretty sure they were all Japan built, so shouldn't be any regional differences when it comes to badging I wouldn't think

I was at Centre Rd a week and a half ago. Little had changed from my last visit a few months previously. There was a new first gen Cressida there, but didn't take a good look at it.

The centre grill badge is definitely the cream colour You are right about the centre boot badge though. I had only ever looked at what I described as the gunmetal badge straight on. If you angle it, it is in fact iridescent blue also. The other colour is red. There are two part numbers for this badge, with a change made Feb 69. Which further makes me think the turquoise colour on your SL badge is either a touch up or fading of the blue over time, otherwise it would have more than one part number. The ones I have originally came from Japan. For completeness, I may as well mention that the grille SL badge is identical (in plastic) as the bootlid SL badge. The only difference being that the badge for the grill is mounted in a bracket.

Greenish glass is SL spec