parrot

Not sure about that. Unfortunately the badge is not visible in any of the brochures I have, which include Japanese, Australian and us market. Would love to see anything you found clarkworld. US market didn't get any SL's as I understand it. And also unsure if any corolla's went to Europe prior to the E20's. On my white car, all the colour has disappeared from the original badges. Then we haven't even started discussing the boot badge, which I think was available in either a gunmetal type colour or red!

No, part number is unchanged from KE15 to KE17. That's from the master catalog, and also checked in the Japanese KE17 specific parts book 75383-19045 And this is the box the badge above came in.

I suspect that yours have been touched up. The badge in the photo is mine (I have a pair) and they are new unused in their original box. Before I got these, i missed out on a pair from Belgium a few years back which I have a photo of. These were identical to mine. I have another single used badge in which the colour has totally disappeared but is otherwise in excellent condition. Again, no black squares. The blue colour has an iridescence with a clear coat and are quite striking. All three badges I have are plastic. The non SL badges differed (apart from the absence of an SL) in being from memory a bronze colour.

Advance Australia was an early 80's buy Australian campaign

Pimp my Rolla's KE10

Try pushing the horn button inwards and then twisting to the left or right.

It's a big job, but shall look forward to watching your progress.

Fort Knox Louisville KENTUCKY USA Pop around and I'll introduce you to a few of my Marine friends!

Here you go. These are new. The Non SL badges have the chequerboard in a different colour to the SL ones. If you click on the photo it will enlarge

AMI City - early 70's

There are rules about how close holes are to suspension, floor and seat/seatbelt mounts etc, but surface rust wouldn't fail you

My general understanding is that you should etch prime if you have anything more than small areas of bare steel. That's just from lots of reading and talking to paint shop guys. I gather it results in better paint adhesion

Picked up Nov 67 Sports Car World and Dec 67 Aust Motor Sports & Automobiles yesterday. As above, SCW mentions the Corolla's were excluded as cylinder heads, manifolds and rear springs were not standard spec. AMS says it was the inlet manifold and rear springs that were not standard spec, and that on immediate appeal, the springs were allowed, whereas the manifold wasn't. There were then further protests lodged. I wonder if ARDC archives are accessible, would be interesting to have a read of those. Edit: I have emailed the ARDC asking the question.

Wow

Why do you say that Sam? I would have imagined lower reciprocating mass etc (which I know nothing about) woud be a good thing. I wouldn't have thought load on them would be that high, and as long as protected by a cover, they should be OK?

If you mean homologation for motorsport, I don't believe any TE27 2TG spec cars ever competed here in period. Homologation papers of course are international documents, but there doesn't seem to be any competition history for these cars in Australia. I wouldn't have thought homologation papers would hold any relevance with respect to engineering for road use. I intend doing the AE86 strut front and a standard TE27 drum T series rear without ridiculously wide rims

This is from a TE27 Edit: You get some made, you owe me one! I'll measure it if you like

Not that quickly, all will be well. I once did the same thing with an L20B, except I filled it with water. Had rebuilt engine, which was running, and slowly topping up water, which I kept adding and adding. Just when I'm thinking, 'shit that's a lot of water', it started pissing out of the breather. Turned out the previous owner had tapped a new hole in the front of the block to allow for adjustment on a chain slide (had previously had a massively shaved head). Me not knowing this and installing new head, had bolted slide to original hole oblivious to new hole which had been tapped into the water jacket........

Time for a new fuel pump. If you drain everything out you will be fine. If it was me, I would change the filter, put a little oil down each plug hole and turn it over by hand to try and get some oil around the rings. I would also get oil pressure by turning it over without the coil lead before starting it.

You can also easily buy a fusible link block, with it's own holder and wire to that.

If you're not already, get onto 3tcgarage.com You are likely to find everything you need there, and it's US based. Presume you realise you need more than just the engine for the conversion, but all pretty much readily available over there.

Compression you can check if it has a starter motor, battery and jump leads. Other than that, completeness, and that the chain hasn't worn through the front cover (unlikely). Pain in the arse, and often expensive sourcing missing bits. If keen, drain the oil and see if there is anything in it. All gets down to how much it is and if you CBF.

Front is easy to change, the rear isn't. It's all on here, and has been discussed at length only recently. You need to spend a bit of time searching.

JDM and ADM clutch forks and bearing carriers are the same. Have run ADM ones with a JDM bellhosing for many years

I did see a very nice white KE20 there. A great result from all the work you have put in!