parrot

No you are indeed correct Jono. I had a look in the parts book, cross referencing the part number, and the tool pictured is in fact a worm screw adjusting tool for a KE20 steering box. Have edited my post above.

My tool is a Toyota SST and looking at it, there is no way it would cope with any torquing. My experience of wetlegs is that they were basically just nipped up and came apart pretty uneventfully.

I have this one which from memory is for a KE1x but presumably others. Pins are 40mm apart. EDIT: WRONG see below The tool is flat so couldn't cope if the plate you mentioned is recessed. Once upon a time we would use a long thin punch and tap it around.

The AE92/93 4AGE starter mentioned above and detailed here is reasonably difficult to source. A few sections cut from a thread I made on Toymods in 2008. http://www.toymods.o...-clarified.html DO NOT RELY ON THE AFTERMARKET PART NUMBER BELOW WITHOUT CHECKING TO YOUR SATISFACTION BEFORE ORDERING. THAT PART NUMBER WAS CORRECT IN 2008 AND THERE WAS EVIDENCE IT HAD CHANGED AND SPECIFICATION ALSO CHANGED. recently asked to identify the source of my reduction starter which C2888 quickly looked up on his EPC as 28100-15190 STARTER ASSY 4AGE..AE92 12V 0.8KW. http://toymods.net/f...read.php?t=1418 Once I posted pics there was scepticism as to whether it really was a reduction starter. So to clarify see below. The advantage of this starter is that is significantly lighter and much less bulky than a conventional starter. 2.855kg vs 4.335 kg. It is much easier to get in and out of the bellhousing, plus it makes a nice noise . Click on the photo's for a larger image. This is a direct comparison of the reduction starter (bottom) and a conventional 4age starter (top). Note the external thru bolts for the reduction starter. This one compares the size and layout of the starter drives, again bottom is reduction. This one shows the actual reduction gears which sit within a nylon? outer fixed gear. The three small reduction gears are fixed to the centre plate which is continuous with the starter output shaft. Have had a couple of queries about this after it was referenced on another forum, so have reloaded the photo's. Also note you can buy them remanufactured in Australia. OEX enduro part number RXS462. These are apparently available through Repco. I got mine at pickapart. I have yet to use it, but it certainly looks identical externally, just lacks the heat shield. I also notice that the 20 valve starters look to have the same design albeit with an altered chassis section to bolt to the 20 valve. A 20 valve starter will not bolt to the 16 valve unless you swap the workings into the 16 valve chassis. By chassis, I mean the section that adapts the starter to a given bellhousing.

No, any 4AC starter will work in a bigport 4AGE, irrespective of whether it is front wheel drive or rear wheel drive sourced

If it has holes it will leak and that is an instant fail for very good reason

This was covered on rollaclub in a previous thread. From memory they were an option, but at that time seatbelts were an infringement of civil liberties which few people took up, especially for the kids in the back. My KE15 (fully imported) doesn't have them. Edit: Here it is http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/45156-ke10-and-ke11-rear-seat-belts/page__hl__%20seatbelts

Disagree I have a factory LSD in my AE86 which is driven sensibly, and the LSD transformed it. Of course the problem is in sourcing the components, they hardy grow on trees and will likely have to come from Japan. I have a spare TE27 T series rear housing which I have vague ideas of putting in the KE15 at some point. Edit: I'm also very keen to hear some more about your steering box overhaul! And where did the tie rods come from?

This is a pdf of the pages. I seem to have missed one page but have got a headache trying to work out which one it is. If you work it out, let me know and I'll edit it. Quality is ordinary, partially as these were initially jpeg's, but largely as the quality of the original back in the 70's wouldn't have been much good either. Photo's are useless, but the detail is interesting homologation papers.pdf

I would persevere with EFI. Bite the bullet and buy the three looms, ideally from a zenki AE86, from Yahoo Japan. Won't cost much and will likely solve your issues.

Click on one page, it will come up by itself. In the bottom left of the page, click on options, and then you can save as full page Edit: ideally save it as a pdf

I don't like it. My first car in 1983 was a Datsun 1200 4 door, and it was indestructible despite my very best efforts. You may know this car as a B110. It's life was tragically cut short one night (sob...) as I sped up the right lane of a dual carriage way, only to have a Nissan Urvan turn across my line from the left lane to park in a centre of the road parking spot. Only another Datsun (Nissan) could have killed it. Now you have reminded me of this traumatic event and I will be miserable till about 6.30pm

Looking through Bill Tuckey's, "Australia's Greatest Motor Race - The Complete History", no 2TG equipped Corolla ran at Bathurst until the Thatcher/Misaki Levin in 1979. It failed to finish with a broken oil pump drive. Of course there were races other than Bathurst, but probably unlikely a 2TG equipped car ever raced in Australia prior to this. There were certainly KE20's raced, and in 1975 Richard Stiegler/Greg Toepfler entered a 1972 Corolla after their even older fastback was written off in a towing accident. Presumably this is a KE25. I wonder if it raced elsewhere and prior to 1972?

So I have been hunting through my various period magazines for ages looking for the reason behind disqualification without success. Today I picked up a copy of Bill Tuckey's, "Australia's Greatest Motor Race - The Complete History", published 1982. It's a great read, when Bathurst was a real race with variety in entrants. In the report on the 1967 race, it outlines how cheating had dramatically escalated with the influx of factory works & supported teams. In those days, cars were scrutineered before practice on day one. Then teams had all night to prepare cars for the race the next day. The 3 factory Corolla's finished 1st, 3rd & 4th in class A and were all disqualified for non standard heads, manifolds and rear springs. Presumably they were using what would later become K-B components? Peter Williamson's Corona was disqualified also for having a non standard head, ports & manifold. The second placed Corolla was later reinstated on appeal. On race day, the Corolla's and Datsun 1000's were 6 secs a lap quicker than they had been the day before in practice. In 1968, the works Corolla's finished a lap ahead of the Datsun 1000's, which were subsequently disqualified for carburettor breaches.

As promised. If printing, do so in A3 AMI racing 1.pdf AMI racing 2.pdf

That's my point. I find it hard to believe something valved for a Pajero will suit the spring rates in a celica.

Why would you want these in your car? Stiff isn't necessarily good

Decoking is an old fashioned concept rendered unnecessary by modern fuels, oils and engine tolerances. User TE27 was selling a magnetic fuel saver on here a while back, and I was seriously pissed to miss out on it! Badly wanted one as a 'period' mod on the KE15.

As said, the entire front is completely different. Also the beaver panel, and associated trim, not to mention the scuttle intakes and c pillar vent along with everything else already mentioned. You also delete the chrome. Edit: I have the Trueno Badge for the boot, which I was holding for someone on here. He seems to have forgotten about it though.

Excellent. I'm guessing the thief couldn't stand the muffler baffle whistle and dumped it!

The Racing Toyota's is essentially 2 pages where Bert talks about development of K engined vehicles. Nothing 2TG as it was too early then. Was a supplement to the June 1972 issue of Racing Car News I'll scan it and add to post when I'm back at work in a couple of weeks. Who knew that Leonard Teale was a factory driver!

My impressions are exactly the same as KE70Dave

Well that's why people don't bother so much with a 3TC. If you are going to go to that effort, and most people are paying someone to do it, they will go with something with more horsepower out of the box than a 3TC

It's more an issue of crossmembers and pedal boxes which we didn't get here. Otherwise everyone would be onto it. Plus you will need to upgrade the diff and change the propshaft, front suspension differences, brake upgrade etc etc. But yes a great idea if you can be fagged sourcing or modifying.

PM'd