parrot

This may (or may not) give you some guidance http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/61441-weber-settings/page__p__619800__hl__+weber#entry619800

There are extra wide aftermarket fibreglass versions available via Japan. There was in fact an earlier and later version of the TE27 metal flares from factory. There is one version from 7203 - 7304 & another version 7304 - 7403 and I have confirmed they are NLA. Trueno and Levin flares were common to each other. I think the difference is that one version (possibly the earlier ones) are slightly shorter in length. Of note, the factory retainer screws are worth almost as much as the flares! I have recently picked up a set of genuine flares, so have a pair of rear fibreglass flares available for $125.

As MS says. If you source a LHD pedal box from USA, you get around the master cylinder location issues and your need for hydraulic clutch actuation. Don't assume that a TA22 pedal box will bolt into a KE30. Certainly it is quite different to a TE27 setup for example. Yes you can muck around and modify one, as .T. on this forum has done. Bear in mind he is rather good at this sort of thing. Check his thread for a perspective of what is required. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/68457-my-ke25-4agte-irs-project/ In Australia we are in a similar predicament as you. K engined Corolla's and lots of TA22's. Unfortunately not a lot carries over from a TA22 to a KE30 to make a TE3x. Seriously consider getting the pedal box and engine crossmember from USA, you will save yourself considerable grief, and ensure everything fits where it should. A TE27 basically uses TA22 front brakes. I would look into this further as a possible way of uprating your brakes appropriately for your TE3x build in an effective, budget fashion. If you have easy access to a TA22 engine crossmember, you could do some comparative measurements first to explore that option.

Left Hand Drive? Ideally source a pedal box from a TE3x, which will deal with the brake and clutch issue in one swoop. Whilst there, get the accelerator linkage across the firewall as well. Should have little difficulty sourcing one in the USA. Look on 3TCgarage. If I was you I would source the correct engine crossmember too. You may find the gearbox crossmember is common, but not sure on that. The front brakes are probably a little bigger on the TE3x. Could probably swap in TA22 struts using the KE3x tops? I had a TA22 with a stock bottom end 2TC with just a ported & shaved head, extractors and twin 40 dcoe's on it years back and it was quicker than my mates stock 2TG

Basically you can run a oil pressure gauge via an electric sensor, or a pressure line. Depends on what type of gauge you get. Electric sender is neater but the sender can be a little pricey. You can still run an idiot light with either, you just screw a t piece into the block where the oil pressure light sender is. Really you need to decide on what brand of gauges you want to run and see what they offer. You don't need a sandwich plate of any type, just run them from the current oil pressure sender location.

Kevin Dennis?

Sorry, I'm fixating on KE15/17's as usual. The Japanese market had access to far more options than ever came here. See scans of the Aust SL brochure. Specifications and "Sport Features" detailed on the last page. SL 1.pdf SL 2.pdf SL 3.pdf SL 4.pdf Note the cars photographed are presumably K engined rather than 3K, no 1200 badges

Everything was optional on any car, SL or otherwise. Boot badge isn't different. The only SL specific changes from memory are the compression (10:1), cam duration, twin carbs with slightly different jetting plus actuation, I think the exhaust manifold is different, and the SL badges, instrument cluster and steering wheel. I think virtually no Aust cars would have ticked the headrest option, so rare to finf them

Looks pretty clear to me B-Lugg? I think you are just going to have to try and get it pulling as straight as possible and make sure there is as little flex as possible. Easier said than done I know.

Squashed, upside down red TA22 on the back of a flatbed truck going up Rosanna Rd?

Fluffy dice could put an eye out if you go around a corner too rapidly.

If you look at it from the right angle (standing on your head whilst having your testicles squeezed) you could almost swear it was a Gulf GT40. As in ford, not Bosch.

Ha!!! 25%!!!!! Just wait till they hit school and start playing eleventy billion different sports. Cricket, football, hockey, swimming, domestic basketball, rep basketball, gym. Then there are all the trainings, committee meetings, team manager thingies etc etc. Was that console off the UK guy? That WAS a good buy.

So they have this newfangled thing called google......... http://www.coordsport.de/de/page/hks-tuning-parts

Carbs are all well and good, but you can't beat the turn key simplicity of a well setup EFI. Starts first time every time is pretty nice on a cold wet morning when you have to get to work, or you have to get the kids somewhere. I realise a good electronic ignition helps there too though. But optimising mixtures through the driving range is pretty simple with EFI, lot harder to achieve with carbs which get out of synch etc etc. But for the motivated enthusiast with a wonder dog, they are unbeatable!

Great job mate!

Nooooo.... Can't wait till tomorrow!!

Handbrake console Edit: Shagpile?

Steering wheel, instrument binnacle & switch to right of heater controls?

Sorry Gary. I'm going purely from the exploded part diagrams. Assuming from Terryo's post you are after the countershaft, you should be able to use the KE20 part in your KE1x box. Swapping the entire box in is a different issue I can't comment on.

Pre 6903 is a different part number for the whole transmission for both KE10/15........ Why? The master catalog (printed Nov 72) says the Counter Gear shaft 33411-19015 is common to KE1x & KE2x. However I also have an English language part book (printed Sept 69) for the KE11 series and a JDM book for KE17 which says the countershaft is 33411-12010. A quick google of 33411-12010 tells me via various suspiciously similar US based part sites, that 33411-19015 replaced 33411-12010. So if they are correct, likely you could cannibalize a KE2x K40 for the counter shaft

Old deteriorated petrol most likely. Go very light on the grease.

I'm almost certain I have scanned the whole thing and posted it up somewhere. Might be in the Motorsport section amongst the early corolla thread. It's here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/62432-te-25-or-te-27-historic-nc-racer/page__st__15

S series rear wheel cylinders look to be 13/16. KE2x were available with either 3/4 or 13/16, so you may be alright there. Just suss out whether the booster will fit in position. The TE27 booster is small (7.5 inches?) and the master cylinder is situated very close to the strut tower.

My experience is old now, and related to putting a 4AGE 16 valve into an AE86. Essentially, as that engine wasn't available via the manufacturer in that chassis in this country, it needed engineer approval. Yes I know it was available overseas, yes I know a couple of evaluation cars came in (wait for the inevitable rumours of "x" other manufacturer imports), yes I know it is the same block etc etc. However it gets down to different braking systems, emissions and so on. This may not be relevant to your specific situation, but gives you some insight into vicroads engineering thinking. The only way to find out is to write to them, outline what you plan to do, and seek advice. They were very helpful. Probably not what you want to hear, but there you go. Asking the person over the counter at vicroads is a waste of time. http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Registration/PermitsModificationsAndDefects/Modifications/NotifyingVicRoadsOfChangesAndModifications.htm This is a cut and paste of the more relevant section. Change of engine 1. Replacement engine is identical to the original engine, or is an option allowed by the manufacturer for the same model vehicle The optional engine must be offered in Australia by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle (or certified variants). The change of engine may be recorded by VicRoads provided that the registered operator or a motor mechanic, or dealer in that make of vehicle or an Automotive Engineer signs a declaration certifying the engine is optional for the vehicle model, and that all modifications made by the manufacturer for the same vehicle model with that optional engine have been completed. You will need to attend a VicRoads Customer Service Centre to have the vehicle's engine inspected to confirm the new engine details. No appointment is required. You will also need to complete a Change of Vehicle Description form. 2. Replacement engine is not of a type offered by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle or where alterations, or changes to the vehicle's frame or structure are made, and/or specially fabricated supports or structures are used You will need to attend a VicRoads Customer Service Centre for an inspection of the vehicle to confirm the new engine details. You will also need to complete a Change of Vehicle Description form and provide VicRoads with: a VASS Approval Certificate from a VicRoads Vehicle Assessment Signatory an original receipt for the purchase of the engine as proof of ownership of the engine 3. Replacement engine is not of a type and/or make offered by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle, but is equivalent in general configuration, power, mass, and emissions standard to that of the original or an optional engine for the vehicle model and can be installed without any structural alterations. The change of engine may be recorded by VicRoads provided that the registered operator or a motor mechanic, or dealer in that make of vehicle or an Automotive Engineer signs a declaration certifying that all modifications made by the manufacturer for the same vehicle model with that engine, have been completed. A Change of Vehicle Description form must be completed providing new engine details. An inspection to confirm engine details is also required unless a Certificate of Roadworthiness or VASS Approval Certificate including the new engine number is provided (only for a currently registered Victorian vehicle). An original receipt for the purchase of the engine must be provided as proof of ownership of the engine. When a VASS Approval Certificate has been supplied for a replacement engine, then an equivalent replacement engine can be fitted without another VASS Approval Certificate being presented (eg 350 c.i. V8 engine replaced with 350 c.i. V8 engine).