parrot

Can I wash it for you, please!

What, you get to wash it for its very fortunate owner?

The osram nightbreakers I can get for $50 pair. I don't care what colour they are as long as I can see. Is it just me, or is it bizarre that they sell globes as a styling thing?

So I have rapidly come to the conclusion that the halogen globes in the Nissan daily are pretty crap. I do a fair amount of country driving and wombats are a common concern. So whilst I come up with some sort of mount system for my mega cibies (by the way, interested in an easy mount solution that doesnt require a $750 nudge bar, and doesn't trip the airbags.....) I am also looking at upgrading the bulbs which I think are H11's. My trawling of the interwebs seem to suggest that Osram Nightbreakers may be the way to go. The Phillips equivalants seem to be marketed as a "style" globe?? I juat want to be able to see where I am going, and have no interest in HiD conversions. Any valued experience out there?

I knew there was a reason I never ventured into this forum. Situation is not grey, it starkly black and white. 4AGE's of any configuration were never imported in a RWD AE chassis of any sort in Australia. Thus they require engineering in Victoria. ADR's apply Australia wide so the answer is the same anywhere else, as state registration authorities are required to ensure vehicles comply with ADR's. Having an inspection at your local reg office for an engine number change is not the same as engineering, and always the onus lies with the regiistered keeper of the vehicle. The fact that all 4A engine numbers are 4Axxxxxxxxxx makes that route potentially easy, but not legal. I have this in writing from the Vicroads engineering department.

Most electric fuel pumps are meant to push fuel from near the tank, rather than pull it to the engine bay. Pop it in the boot next to the fuel tank. Make sure you have a fuel circuit relay to turn it off. Also check it runs at carby pressures, i.e. no more than 4.5psi

Don't get the Haynes manual. Genuine Toyota Manuals are far better. I like to collect them, and the earlier the manual, the more a work of art. And then there are the real anorak editions such as the Vibration and Noise repair manual, or the Seat Belt system repair manual. By the time you get to the AE86 manual, it is amazing how little is in there compared to the Japanese edition. You know you want a Vibration and Noise repair manual!

They come up in really good condition on ebay all the time for not much. I know it came with your car, but you may want to pick up a good one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-COROLLA-1100-OWNERS-MANUAL-/151644201009?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item234eb2e031

Google RAC in your state! They will all be different. And welcome to Australia!

Only way to know is to get it inspected, preferably by someone independent. i.e RACV, NRMA etc. That would be around top price I'd say. It would want to be a well optioned model in very good condition.

There's always going to be a trade off with poly vs rubber. When rubber wears it slops about, but you don't get noise or crumble, just movement. You need to consider why you choose to install poly bushes, expect a trade off in noise and vibration, and understand that they will require replacement eventually - just as rubber does.

You should see my wife if her dinner is 5 mins late! I'm covered in bruises

Yawn

I wouldn't think about it that way. Just build what you think you will enjoy most. Or buy another car and have best of both worlds!

Well one will be the earth and one the power. Earth will be white with black trace, power may well be yellow/red if yours is a TE7x chassis. Any aftermarket gauge may require that you use the appropriate aftermarket sender. If you use the factory sender with an aftermarket gauge, you may find it is completely inaccurate.

That's a new one. As I said in the other thread, the SL's had blue tinted side and rear glass from new. Of course they could have been changed over time, but see what you have. Leon may still have odd bits of blue glass. i bought a set off of him a while ago.

It looks to be in really good nick! More photos!! Did you have any luck with the glass?

Just get some here? http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=2005+Corolla+Ascent+shock&_from=R40|R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X2005+Corolla++shock.TRS0&_nkw=2005+Corolla++shock&ghostText=&_sacat=0

For the anoraks amongst us. i.e. me Edit: Don't worry, I've already searched the part number on amayama!

I think the Ryco antidrain valve is a relatively recent change. They certainly never had them in years past. I did notice when buying a filter for my non Toyota daily recently that its now trumpeted all over the ryco box, so just make sure if you do buy Ryco, it is a newer model. Oh for the good old days of Ryans in Elizabeth St Melbourne......

Rare earth magnet! Crikies. I swear by genuine filters as they have a non return valve in them to prevent the filter draining between starts

You need to install electric front quarter vent windows so you feel at home!

Well it's possible. It doesn't take very much fuel to stink out the cabin. But I would expect more obvious signs of evaporation than what is apparent in the photos Realistically you're not going to really get an idea without removing the entire sender unit. Petrol seepage is really only obvious when it's wet, so invert the sender and pool some fuel on top. Possibly you could use some fuel resistant epoxy if it is that spot. It's apparent that sender has already been out of the tank at some stage, so perhaps someone's already had a go at it. The phillips head screws are a little chewed, and the clamps have been upgraded. There is a rubber sealing ring under the sender unit, but if that was leaking, I would expect more obvious signs. If the rubber hoses aren't new, I would replace then as a matter of course (edit: with the right size, are those a little loose?). With this style of tank, seepage from a seam or pinched area is unlikely. And don't rule out checking the fuel tank breather, fuel inlet to tank and the engine bay area as well.

As I recall, I used to have to do that in my TA22 which had a T50 in it. You could access the filler hle, just, but it was a pain in the arse.

I had to google the serpentine bolt. I gather it's the bolt that locates the plate which adjusts the power steering, alternator etc belts. Edit: there was a video on youtube showing how to change it on a 2005 Corolla....... It goes without saying that you change dampers in pairs by the way. Really it depends on how much you are prepared to do, if you can have the car off the road whilst you sort it out, and what you intend doing with the car in the medium term. You should be able to sort the majority of the issues fairly cheaply, especially if you can do the dampers yourself. And then the car may last for years yet. If you were thinking of turning it over sometime soonish, well maybe now is the time. If you keep it, it's cheap to run and if you get a small ding or car park scrape, well it doesn't really matter.