parrot

You simply use a low pressure pump designed for carbs. If you want to go "JDM" use a Mitsuba pump (but there are lots of other effective, cheaper [and noisy] options). If keen, in addition you can use a fuel pressure regulator designed for carbs such as a filter king. This regulates the pressure and additionally has a filter element you can change and looks old school. Rubber mount the pump in the boot near the tank, as these sorts of pumps are designed to push rather than pull fuel. A very good idea to set up a fuel circuit relay to ensure the pump turns off in the event that the engine stops such as in a crash where you can't reach the switch yourself. Burning to death isn't good.

The point of this is to shorten the steering arms to enable more steering lock. Another thing that will make your car unroadworthy (cutting and welding a steering component). You would want to hope there is full penetration on the weld! I had shorter steering arms in my AE86 (from a pwr steer AE86) for about 5 mins before I took them back out and sold them. The steering for a daily car was way to heavy. If you are using them in a race or drift car where most of the driving is at speed, I'm sure they are great. For a daily that has to spend much time pottering about, parking etc, they would be horrible.

You will find that you will probably need to empty it pretty regularly. There appear to be a drain for the purpose, but the oily residue will remain inside the canister. Probably an idea to dismantle and empty it out properly from time to time.

That's pretty crappy. Normally the fumes generated within the crankcase (essentially the part of the engine excepting where compression occurs) are fed from the outlet on the rocker cover back into the inside of the air cleaner assembly. The will be an attachment on the air filter housing with a bit of wire gauze over it to catch any large crap). In this way it gets sucked back into the engine. On KE1x Corolla's the pipe just led down onto the road. If your motor is in ordinary condition, you may find you have a fair amount of "blowby" which makes a mess of the airfilter. Blowby is usually horrible oily watery muck, which you will find if you empty that canister. It's probably full and needs emptying. I suspect anyone doing a RWC may not like it very much.

That's right. You need to understand that a T series diff came in different widths depending on the donor (from TE27's right through to the RA60 celica) which affects rear track and therefore wheel proximity to guards etc, the rear trailing arm brackets may need to be moved, you will need to source the right tailshaft etc. Do you want rear disc brakes or not? There are issues to consider there. Buy a diff with factory rear discs i.e. an AE86 with factory discs, or do you convert to disc from drum. From distant memory a T18 complete diff (T series) will bolt straight in but you need to source the right tailshaft as the bolt spacing tailshaft to diff centre differs from what you have. Again from memory, a series 1 T18 diff doesn't have a swaybar, but a series 2 does. This is a drum brake diff unless converted. Desirable as bolt in, but sometimes priced accordingly, and these days getting hard to find. An AE86 T series (not an Australian AE86) rear diff will bolt in with same tailshaft issues. Usually sourced from Japan, can be drum or disc, LSD or no LSD. The Australian AE86 has an S series diff unless previously converted. A proper AE86 disc rear with LSD will likely cost you over $1000 minimum. Desirable as bolt in and possibly has all the fruit, but expensive. If you buy one of these and it says it's LSD, check that it really is. Anything else will likely need modification, Narrowing the diff and / or moving the trailing arm mounts. Hilux diffs are way to heavy, and diff ratio's a potential problem (unsuited to a revvy motor). There is a skyline diff option but I hear they have issues of some sort, but I have no experience with those. Search around and I'm sure you will learn about those. A good idea is to look on Yahoo Japan, and import stuff yourself through a broker. Generally a cheaper way to find and buy if you can wait a couple of months.

Just put in a conventional open centre, same as what you have but not welded. i.e. a standard KE70 diff centre (or complete rear end as per Altezzaclub). It should be very cheap. Then you can learn a bit more about the car whilst it's roadworthy and explore modification directions you may want to go before committing hard cash.

DON'T PUT THE WELDED DIFF BACK IN Why? "the sort of driving a person who welds a diff does." You will hate it and possibly kill yourself, or somoene else. And you will also be a police magnet.

No you don't remove the whole rear end. Although that is an option of course if you can find one cheap enough. To remove the diff centre, (the bit that has been welded) you first need to pull the axles out as the ends of the axles sit inside the centre. Once they are out, you can unbolt the centre from the housing and lift it out. The axles are held in at the wheel end by 4 bolts. You undo these and pull the axle out. Easy. Except that at the wheel end is a bearing that is usually a pretty tight fit inside the housing. You use the spare wheel es a slide hammer to pull it out. Sometimes it's hard work, sometimes it pops out easily enough. Put the wheel on the wheel studs backwards, put the 4 wheel nuts on backwards but loosely (too loosely and you get a face full of wheel) then slam the wheel out towards you till the axle gives.

A differential swap is quite easy with a socket set, set of spanners and using your spare wheel as an improvised slide hammer. But you do need to follow instructions step by step from a manual. Realistically the process is the same for any front entry Toyota diff, so look for an online chassis manual and familiarize yourself with what is required. When pulling the axles, be absolutely certain the car is totally stable on stands and keep your legs out from under the car. It's a good idea to put a wheel under the diff centre, just in case

Nothing's easy at the front as the usual idea is to adapt something else with better strut insert options/bigger brakes. But as the KE1x struts have a 3 bolt steering arm, and a large wishbone rather than a "conventional" Toyota lower control arm, It isn't so easy to swap something across. As ever, it really depends on what you want to do with the car You can always get some custom made coils made to suit the front, whip out the transverse leaf, change the strut tops as you describe, and get a sway bar from Signature sway bars (being mindful to get one to suit a disc brake front if you have them / plan to install them). You are still left with the problem of matching suitable damping. But if you want to get carried away, you can of course spend your money and fabricate

I just had a look. Predictably the torque convertor is a different part number to an Aussie AE71 Interestingly they did have an Auto AE86 in Japan, and it had 4 gears compared to 3 in an ADM AE71.

I think it's the sort of thing you need to find at a pickies wrecker, or someone breaking a car. There is a KE55 at Imlach's in Centre Rd Springvale, but it has had a pretty hard hit in the front so it may be screwed. If you are local it might be worth a look to see if the tray might be fixable though

There won't be. You just need to find a reasonable one and resurrect it. Paint it with epoxy and it will last longer than the car. I had three good ones that I chucked out.

Just chase a stocky

And likelihood of finding an auto trans? Presumably one from an AE71 would fit?

With the benefit of the photo, it's a single cam 4A

Welcome. I bought my second car, a TA22 off my dad. It was standard. Didn't stay that way for long, and I'll never forget the look on his face when I took him out for a drive! He was especially amazed I had done it all myself. It will always be precious knowing it was your dad's, and he clearly looked after it so well.

Stuart and Tommy (tommys KE11) helped me out after dealing with the issue themselves. I think from memory they had to modify a bar that touched on full lock, requiring the pedal to be pumped to bring the pedal back. Check their very entertaining build thread, I expect the answer is there.

Here we go. Not my car. Eye measurement centre to centre is now 895mm.

The bar was originally designed for the cars fitted with drum brakes. The way around it is to have a slight bend in the bar to keep it away from the back of the caliper. I asked for this when I had mine made at Signature swaybars, who have the original patterns white line use now. I have pictures somewhere I will try and dig out

So of course it was predictably simple. Plenty on google about removing the assembly, but nothing on dismantling the cylinder. The gold tab you can see on the end of the cylinder is spring loaded and you simply lever it down with a small screwdriver and pull gently on the key and out it comes. The remnants of old dried grease were doing a good job of inducing plenty of drag. A good squirt with electracleen and clean up with rag and cotton buds and spray with lithium grease and it's as good as new. Watch you don't lose the tab which easily falls out and only goes back in one way (or the tiny spring). Also there is an odd shaped magnet which also only goes in one way and retains the key in the lock. The assembly is shared between AE86's and other AE/CE8x chassis as well as Tercels if you lose any bits.

The ignition switch in my AE86 has lost it's "action". By which I mean that it is a bit sluggish when turning the key, and doesn't spring back promptly to ON after you start it, and release the key. I've removed the ignition lock from the housing, and it just feels like it needs to be dismantled, given a good clean and lubricated. Does anyone one know how to remove the barrel from the lock? Also, I'm wondering if the switch wiring section with the plastic cartridge in it contains a spring, as there is clearly no return spring mechanism in the lock itself. I intend trying to buy a replacement one of these as my wiring has been cut up over the years.

Judging by your avatar, you could definitely do with a fuel circuit relay to ensure your pump is turned off when you roll the car! i very much doubt fuel vaporisation due to fuel pump location is the issue. The pump and filter are located on the opposite side of the engine to the exhaust in a well ventilated area. I reckon Toyota knew what they were doing. And Peter52's pump is still going strong 45 years after it first primed with fuel.

If the tank is clean and the fuel lines in good condition, and a fresh fuel filter fitted, a mechanical pump is perfectly fine. After 45 years, it's reasonable that pumps will fail, rubber hose will perish, and tanks will accumulate muck in them. Electric pumps are often noisy, and also fail, with the added concerns of wiring issues and bad earth's. In particular that it is run through a fuel circuit relay for safety reasons. Electric pumps are good, but for the average daily driver, probably overkill.

Just need to relocate your engine into the boot, and your problem will be fixed. Or move your electric pump to the boot.