parrot

Agreed, the forum does seem to be bucking the trend somewhat which is good news. Here’s to a great year next year, and a safe festive season to all. Hopefully if I can fix my shed so I can open the door, I’ll be able to get some work done! Thanks to all that contribute and put up with me, you are a great bunch of guys.

Fantastic news on all fronts!

I honestly wouldn’t bother with that other jaycar kit for princesses car. Just go with the points replacement, and as Banjo says, a nippondenso distributor as a direct replacement is always an easy option rather than modifying or customising something to fit the Bosch dizzy.

Nice story on Ed Ordynski in the latest RallySport News, and a great photo of him getting a KE10 sideways! https://rallysportmag.com/where-are-they-now-ed-ordynski/

Was in Jaycar just now. There’s one or two left in NSW only, same deal for the controller. Might chase via silicon chip and see if a new improved model is likely

I think i’ll shut up! thanks for giving me an undeserved out though hiro

There was a guy selling some KE20 monroe’s Second hand on the RC Facebook page

Let us know how you get on. Don’t forget the spigot bearing. You’ll be pissed if you have to drop the box again just for that.

Surely they were at least single point efi by 1992. We are not talking about Holden or ford here edit: now that’s a big emoticon!

I haven't done the swap you suggest. General comment follows! I can't see any reason at all why you couldn't put the later motor in, but experience with other Toyota swaps says there will be undoubted differences. Expect that you may need to mix and match some things. The same would be true even if you were going auto to auto. It will just be a matter of putting it in and working out what needs to swap. Is the later engine fuel injected? There could be problematic differences if the new motor is EFI and the earlier one carb, and you intend putting a carb on it. Don't try to convert to EFI unless you have a complete EFI donor, you will need to swap all manner of other stuff. You would of course need to replace the flex plate with the flywheel (possibly the rear engine plate), and install a spigot bearing in the new engine (easy). The one biggy would be if the later engine has an increase in the number of bolts into the rear of the crank., Then you would need to source a later flywheel. Can't answer that one

The item discussed early on in the thread is very much plug and play. Well screw, plug and play really. Take out the points and rotor, install the wheel and screw in the pickup module in place of the points, reinstall the rotor connect the wires and away you go (basically). As Banjo suggested, it's a really good idea to remove the base plate that the points screw to, and to clean up and lubricate the bob weights, along with the vacuum advance mech with a tiny bit of oil. The retainer screws are pretty small so make sure they don't full on the ground Very easy to install. Let us know if they have a bosch item available and how you get on.

Getting slightly off topic for Graeme and Ms Princess however. Sorry, i shouldn't have moved things in that direction

You will have to get in touch with them direct Graeme. I reckon if you tell them which point set it uses, that will help them. Points usually get burnt out if you have the wrong coil or a bad condensor. It's worth giving the contact faces a wipe with metho before fitting to remove any preservative stuff too

I love the rollaclub search function. Plonked accuspark into it, and all manner of interesting progammable ignition curve info came up

That's great Banjo. I honestly would never have points in a car again. My wife had an 1100 Mk 1 Escort that would continually burn points, and they were damn hard to get at and adjust properly with feeler gauges let alone trying to get dwell right. Seriously though, points have a hard time of it and are so crucial to the reliable and efficient running of the car. An electronic replacement module is such an easy and essentially foolproof solution, and dare I say the most important and cost effective modification you can make. It's a no brainer. Of course it's equally important that the distributor is in otherwise good condition without play in the shaft for it to work properly. I'm not sure why people go for a full electronic replacement distributor, other than the fact that it's new, which when considering the one in the Princess's car is probably 40 odd years old is a reasonable thought. But as you will read elsewhere on here, that can then result in issues with the mechanical advance being wrong for the engine.

I’m a traditionalist, so everything has to be factory. Unless we are talking about points, which are the spawn of the devil. http://www.simonbbc.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Toyota note these suit the Denso distributor. If yours is Bosch, talk to them about fitment.

The catch can will run just fine. You don't need to over think it

Here’s a good post that discusses the situation in detail, and how the K motor only had the one outlet for example

Yes, often it feeds into the manifold. But in your situation it doesn't matter, as you preferably feed it into a catch can anyway. The rocker space and the crankcase are in reality connected, so pressure within the engine's non combustion areas should effectively be equal anyway.

Like this The small grille area at the top is where the PCV hose from a 3K engine feeds to the filter housing INSIDE the filter element. It then gets drawn through the carb by the engine induced vacuum

No, it feeds to the INSIDE of the air filter element and is drawn through the carb. Have a look at an air cleaner thingy, and you will see the mesh covering the inlet into the induction system. It doesn’t get drawn through the air filter.

Once you see what ends up in the can, you’ll be pleased it isn’t going through the carbs. But make sure you empty it regularly

Wouldn't the PCV feed into your aircleaner setup, as it does factory? That way the gases and crap get reburnt and don't gunge up the carbs. Generally people feed it into a catchcan though

Ta da (bottom left) http://www.retrojdm.com/ScanViewPage.asp?ScanID=116&DPI=72&Filename=08,09 - Instruments and Controls.jpg Oh, and I demand more photo's!

Welcome to Rollaclub, and congratulations on picking up such a lovely car. The engine you have is a K engine. If it was a 3K, it would say 3K ******** on the engine number stamped into the block. Additionally, when your car was built, the 3K had not yet been fitted to production vehicles. Having said that, the block is just one part of an engine, and it is possible that your engine has been bored & stroked by the later fitting of a 3K crankshaft to bring it up to 3K specs. Might be worth measuring a few things before you go ordering pistons etc. There were K, KC and KB engines available from the factory. The differences between a K and a KC are not clear to me, as the specs are essentially the same other than the ignition timing. A "C" designation usually refers to a pollution spec, but the cam durations are identical amongst other things. It may be something as basic as the KC having a crankcase rebreather setup, as on a K, the crankcase fumes were simply vented down a tube and onto the road. As mentioned above, a particular improvement with the shift to the 3K was the addition of valve stem seals. KB engines were quite a bit different, with increased compression 10:1 vs 9:1, a camshaft with more duration and I think different valve springs, twin down draft carbs with specific venturi and jet sizes (not just two random carbs from a K), and a different exhaust extractor system. KB engines were not available in the US I understand. A 3K (and 3KB) first became available in 1969 and was fitted to KE17's which is basically your car with a 3K, along with some other subtle body changes. Again, the 3KB did not go to the US By now, almost 50 years later, you could have any combination of parts installed, so the 3K-C sticker on the valve cover may mean nothing, or hint at later modification. The body number bears no relationship to the engine number. There was no such thing as VIN numbers in those days. Battery location should be front left corner as you look at the engine bay from the front of the car. I have a wide range of period brochures from Japan, Aust and one from the US, as well as a comprehensive range of factory manuals and parts books (inc the USDM part book) from the time. None of those mention airconditioning as an option that I could see. BUT the USDM Owners Manual does talk about it. "Don't use airconditioning whilst sitting at idle or the engine may overheat". Tells you something about the engine power output and load required to drive the aircon! I would suggest you take lots of photos before and during any aircon dismantle so you can put it back together again. Having said that, I would imagine there is a likelihood it is the same/close to the aircon fitted to the next generation Corolla which is well documented,, and I have a fitting manual for that. My strong recommendation to you is to purchase the range of factory manuals for the car - body, chassis, engine. toyoglide (if its an auto). They are readily available on ebay. It is also worth having a later 3K engine manual for the differences mentioned. The parts books are also invaluable as to how everything goes together and these occasionally come up. I think the USDM market brochures are pretty common on ebay too. You can also see some here: http://www.retrojdm.com/Search.asp?Make=Toyota&Model=Corolla&Show=Literature