parrot

Last time I went to the effort to do that, someone started selling the files on eBay.

I recently copied it for one of the other guys, but not keen on doing that again. It’s 100 pages and a very large file, too big to email. The various manuals available on eBay cover it pretty well if you are really keen. Gearboxes aren’t for the faint hearted

I’ve never understood the attraction of massive horsepower in a totally unsuited chassis with such a short wheelbase. Why wouldn’t you choose a more suitable chassis to start with, rather than engineer the thing within an inch of its life. don't get me wrong, I admire the execution and thought that goes into it. I really must get to Leyburn one day.

Your engines in back to front! I’ve heard of uprighting but that’s ridiculous.

That car knew something I didn't, and is laughing at me now......

Later on we had broken up. Then someone crashed into it as she went through an intersection. Her girlfriend calls me to console her and we got back together. Meanwhile the car gets towed away to a crash repair place where the insurance wrote it off. Last we heard, the repairer bought it off her to become the works loan car. Maybe he knew something and has a warehouse full of cars destined to explode in value. I hated the bloody thing

Did you get that off the NZ guy? The one in Australia was broken where it bolts to the hot box?

Years back I was driving my girlfriend’s ( now Mrs Parrot) mk1 Escort back from Torquay late at night when the oil light came on outside Werribee, a sleepy country town in those days. No rattles, plenty of oil on the dipstick. Drove into Werribee and found a servo. Servos carried spare parts in those days, including Escort oil pressure sensors. And a man would put the petrol in your car for you! Swapped it out, and all was well. 7/11’s were just coming in then, and not surprisingly shut at 11! Those were the days.

Yep they are really good to deal with. The owner is a member of the forums and has a well deserved reputation as a quality business You can contact him via his Facebook page or website.

Senders are matched to the gauges they supply, so very possible your gauge wasn’t suited to the 5k sender. Check an aftermarket temp sender catalogue. Same story with oil pressure gauges

I'll sneak into the photocopy room now and see what I can do! Let me know an address or email (or both!)

KE 50 section is 50 pages so worthwhile. It’s for KE7x, TE7x from Aug 79

I’ve got a hard copy T18 manual which has the K and T boxes in it. Happy to post it to you on long term loan, or if you give me a few days, copy the relevant pages

Lets hope it’s true, and Yokohama Australia bring them here https://www.whichcar.com.au/news/yokohama-releases-cult-hero-retro-rubber-for-80s-jdm-icons https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.advan.com/goods/online-shop/hf_typed.html&prev=search I would encourage everyone to contact Yokohama Australia and say what a great idea it is and how many they are likely to sell. Back in the 80’s, Yokies were the only Tyre to have on your hotted up Jap car, especially if you were in to club sport

Looking good Jono

Yes that’s it. I don’t have it anymore, but periodically it would refuse to start and I would remove the sensor, clean the metal filings off the tip, and away it would go again. Mine had the earlier style. I did get a late version off a car at pickapart but never got round to fitting it before it blew the rear main seal. It was awkward to get at in a scenic.

My Renault scenic 2001 ran a flywheel sensor. Plenty of those in wrecking yards. The various other Renault’s also ran them. There was a mid model update in the sensor due to issues I’m not aware of.

Needs a lot of work......... As I recall, the rear arches were supposedly the same as the contra lateral front arches. So I suppose you could make up some replacement rear sheetmetal!

What did we do before the days of zip ties. I think it was occy straps

Nissan owners.... Not long ago I chopped up a pretty good KE25 shell to donate sills etc to my TE27. It did have a dodgy A pillar, but I did feel dirty whilst getting stuck in with the grinder

Despite owning 3 collectable cars, the whole values discussion actually quite annoys me. Mind you I have every intention of being buried with all of mine! I sceptical how many of these cars actually sell, and that the Facebook scourge allows people to “advertise” their cars partially to big note themselves and otherwise try to talk up values. I think the US scene is a hotbed for this sort of nonsense.

I bought my ADM AE86 sometime in the early 90’s for I think $6000. Sounds a lot but they weren’t very old then! It was clean and rust free except for the tail gate which was pretty ordinary. But a visit to EKW and $250 later I had a perfect JDM tailgate with spoiler! Well looked after and it’s still immaculate other than a few bumps from sitting in the shed too long. All these years later it is completely factory GT after importing many many parts, initially from the Jap wreckers when they couldn’t get rid of all the disc brake LSD rears and modified struts they were bringing in in container loads, the UK in pre internet days, and later on from Japan via import monster. Back in the mid late 80’s I could have bought a Nissan prince skyline GTB from my mate who had it sitting in his front yard for want of big end bearings. He didn’t want much for it, but I wasn’t exactly rolling in spare cash, and had nowhere to store it. The bloke who bought it broke it for parts. Was the original press car with a churn fill fuel tank for Bathurst. Wonder what that would be worth now.......

What model code is the 81?

Also there is often a sleeve where the strut piston passes through the bearing. This then has a machined face that the top nut sits on. If that’s missing there will be movement laterally in the piston, and slop at the top partially taken up by screwing the nut down further.

The centre nut secures the top of the strut rod in the camber top. The 4 bolts are loosened to allow the plate to slide in and out to adjust camber. They are secondhand so anything could be going on. Are the top nuts the same design? Have you checked the strut inserts to make sure they are the same/not shagged. Is the nut at the top of the strut body retaining the insert tight? Are the inserts the right length for the adapted strut housings? Is the bearing in the cambertop buggered? I would be pulling them apart to check everything. Clearly one nut is way further recessed than the other.