parrot

Same. But I reckon the one piece manifold gaskets are a good extra https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-COROLLA-3K-4K-MOTOR-HEADER-EXTRACTOR-MANIFOLD-GASKET/253046390465?fits=Make%3AToyota&hash=item3aeabd7ec1:g:PI0AAOSwYGFUrbTW

Ideally empty the tank as it can be surprisingly heavy when manoevering around under the car

That’s the pressure line. The small nut as you call it is like a large brake line fitting, and screws into the body of the larger ‘nut’. To undo it, hold the larger ‘nut’ with a spanner and undo the smaller ‘nut’

Wife and I currently not talking after I told her yesterday I need to knock down the original garage as it is sinking to the point I can’t open the doors anymore! Predictable response really.

My stepfather put a 1600cc Mitsubishi Saturn engine in a Midget. A gear went in the original gearbox, and it was cheaper to swap in the Galant engine rather than get the gear fixed. Goes like the clappers

Years ago my best mate and I had essentially identically modified TA22’s, except he had an import wrecker 2TG which was presumed stock. I had a 2T with moderate head work, modest compression, exhaust and twin 40 dcoe’s. At Calder, he generally had just enough over me to pull away marginally on the straight. The next time we went, I secretly removed the non clutch fan, which had the effect that I could now gradually pull away from him. Drove him insane, trying to work out what had changed.

I should have woken up to that! In Australia bells with the clutch fork on the opposite side to the starter are relatively rare as they only came here with later imports of engines/transmissions by parts importers. We never got rear wheel drive 4AGE engined cars sold here. So all our bells have the clutch line running close to the exhaust.

Left hand bellhousing is from a 3A or 4AC engined car. In Australia at least, it is a common bellhousing. The clutch fork on the drivers side is from a 4AGE engined vehicle

Over the years on the various forums there have been lots of comments about people going back to rubber, and I'm now another one to join the chorus. At the moment, other than the control arms, I have them in the radius rods, rear swaybar, steering rack, and trailing arms. Swaybars I'm fine with, though altezzaclub may argue that some initial give is beneficial. And I think the rigidity of a radius rod bush is desirable. I'm a bit worried about the trailing arms though. The rack I assume shouldn't move. I presume the rigidity is the problem and an expectation that the lubricant will deal with shearing forces. But again, I'm also not interested in regularly lubricating the suspension either. I think they gave that away in about 1938 didn't they? Interestingly when I originally ordered the rack bush from the manufacturer 10 years ago, it was completely wrong in external shape and I had to cut it down in order to fit it (it's red). When recently ordering D rubbers (their blue) direct from the local manufacturer for an AE86 TRD rear swaybar (they had to mill them out to suit the bar diameter) they were also completely the wrong size and shape externally. They then had to redo them, after I measured up the bush. I think the one they eventually used was from a Mitsubishi.

For general interest. Whilst continuing the grandfathercation of my AE86, and removing various parts considered extraneous, I was finishing bolting the struts back in and noticed this. I’m pretty particular, and when installing them, they were lubed within an inch of their life with the supplied grease, and torqued to specification whilst on the ground, which was damn hard as it was pretty low. Since then, it’s done about 10 kms in 10 years Then I had a look at the other side! Not good, and difficult to explain. Fortunately at least, I noticed it, and also I was having a last look around today before putting in an Amayama order. So will be adding some standard bushes to the order

Apparently Japan post arced up at ‘suspension component’ even though they they are an oil damper, so now coming by container instead.

This is the link for the mix and match lowering process https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Lowering_KE1x_Front_using_KE2x_parts I rarely part with any leftovers, as I know there will be a use for them one day!

Not quite so simple. There is a write up in the wiki about using a mixture of components from the KE1x and ke2x struts to lower the front. And also to convert to disc brakes The most obvious issue of bolting in the whole strut is the the steering arm in a Ke15 is 3 bolt, and a KE20 is two bolt, so no direct bolt in. Some have managed, presumably by swapping cross members and lower arms, or some such, but not aware how complex that is.

I was going to see if the guy would separate the springs, but doubted he would. I’m not sure how people manage to bolt in these struts but there is clearly a way - other than stripping them out and doing a half /half build with KE1x and KE2x bits. Or is that what you mean?

I think you are losing it a bit there Jeremy. I checked, and AN101 is the general overhaul kit for the early K carb. TO-4K is another part number used . As you can see from the listing you posted, there are a substantial number of carbs that kit has to cover, so it is possible there may be subtle differences. Whatever you buy, try to carefully remove the old gaskets so you can closely compare the old to the new and make sure they are the same. Same goes for the old O-rings

Unless you are buying genuine, which isn't available, anything will likely be a compromise. I think the local aftermarket kit was AN101. Your best bet is often US ebay via the bulk part resellers, such as this one. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-1100-1968-1969-Carburetor-Rebuild-Kit-TO-4K-Royze-Carb/302584816141?epid=1361463495&hash=item467375e20d:g:JpoAAOSwP~tW35nV But you never really know if you have everything you need till the carb is on the bench in pieces. Queue inevitable follow up Q about new Chinese carbs!

Yes. It was pure luck they were there. They will likely end up about $225 landed via import monster. There is also a set of NOS Boge inserts a bit more expensive, but no indication if they are simply standard replacement or ‘sport’. I just searched under KE20

I've managed to locate a NOS pair of adjustable Koni inserts to suit a KE20 in Japan. The number on the reasonably tattered box looks to be 62P-1743-KE-20. The application listing on the packaging only goes to KE30 so they were probably made about 1975! When they arrive I'll post up the part number on the actual insert. I'll look at them then, but I'm thinking I might try spacing them down the strut tube to give some compression range and keeping the spring captive. This is with the customised springs mentioned earlier in the thread of course.

A factory LSD was the best mod I ever did in my AE86. Not one of the aftermarket this way, that way jobs. It was already good, but it just transformed it in that seat of the pants way of things. How much are the consumables for the printer. Is it like with an inkjet where you pay not much for the printer, but zillions for the cartridges? And when do you print your first gun?

It’s super easy. My 2 cents, go and pull one out of a car at a pickies wrecker. One, it will be hella cheap, and two, you will know what to do on yours. The hardest bit is swapping the actual pump out of it’s carrier and getting the little insulator rubbers in the right spot, and mounting the pre filter. And that’s not hard. edit: I should say you can just use one out of an SV21 Camry if your model isn’t there

I was thinking about it. When it came off the road years ago, it handled really well with lowered king springs, konis in the back and adjustable Kybs up front. Just needed some bigger sway bars. With the factory lsd, it was just beautiful. A lot like my old TA22 which had similar reasonable mods (albeit no lsd in those days) and was also a great handling car that you could clubsprint, hill climb, motorkhana or autocross and then drive to work on Monday. Now ive put harder springs, short stroke shocks etc, can’t get a jack under it and have to worry about every speed jump. So it’s all out now. Garage sale coming up soon!

And when I put them back in, with conventional length strut inserts, and TRD 2.83kg variable rate springs, I didn't even need to put the RCA's in! Does this mean I lose some street cred?

I don't think so. They used what was available (and cheap). My KE15 has 'conventional' what I would call hard rubber seals, whereas by the time they got to the KE25, they had evolved into the neoprene like stuff. I've just resurrected a weight bench for my son, that I found on the side of the road. New marine ply, foam rubber and vinyl and its good as new, and fine to leave sitting outside under the verandah at the beach house for our infrequent visits. The foam was absolutely saturated, and the ply rotted and mouldy. Instead I have used some high density foam mat that doesn't absorb any water, even after leaving outside for 15 years. It was initially a play mat I chucked on the floor wherever the kids were playing so they didn't lose balance and bash their head on the floorboards. I doubt anything like that existed in 1969 - 74. I wonder what they use these days, probably some sort of non hardening mastic?

And I'm reinstalling struts into my AE86 for the eleventy billionth time after deciding to go softer and higher, rather than low and hard, cos I'm getting too old for that shit.

Welcome Teemutus I think we might enjoy having you on board!