parrot

Or one of them has the hots for her.......

Agreed, the forum does seem to be bucking the trend somewhat which is good news. Here’s to a great year next year, and a safe festive season to all. Hopefully if I can fix my shed so I can open the door, I’ll be able to get some work done! Thanks to all that contribute and put up with me, you are a great bunch of guys.

Fantastic news on all fronts!

I honestly wouldn’t bother with that other jaycar kit for princesses car. Just go with the points replacement, and as Banjo says, a nippondenso distributor as a direct replacement is always an easy option rather than modifying or customising something to fit the Bosch dizzy.

Nice story on Ed Ordynski in the latest RallySport News, and a great photo of him getting a KE10 sideways! https://rallysportmag.com/where-are-they-now-ed-ordynski/

Was in Jaycar just now. There’s one or two left in NSW only, same deal for the controller. Might chase via silicon chip and see if a new improved model is likely

I think i’ll shut up! thanks for giving me an undeserved out though hiro

There was a guy selling some KE20 monroe’s Second hand on the RC Facebook page

Let us know how you get on. Don’t forget the spigot bearing. You’ll be pissed if you have to drop the box again just for that.

Surely they were at least single point efi by 1992. We are not talking about Holden or ford here edit: now that’s a big emoticon!

I haven't done the swap you suggest. General comment follows! I can't see any reason at all why you couldn't put the later motor in, but experience with other Toyota swaps says there will be undoubted differences. Expect that you may need to mix and match some things. The same would be true even if you were going auto to auto. It will just be a matter of putting it in and working out what needs to swap. Is the later engine fuel injected? There could be problematic differences if the new motor is EFI and the earlier one carb, and you intend putting a carb on it. Don't try to convert to EFI unless you have a complete EFI donor, you will need to swap all manner of other stuff. You would of course need to replace the flex plate with the flywheel (possibly the rear engine plate), and install a spigot bearing in the new engine (easy). The one biggy would be if the later engine has an increase in the number of bolts into the rear of the crank., Then you would need to source a later flywheel. Can't answer that one

The item discussed early on in the thread is very much plug and play. Well screw, plug and play really. Take out the points and rotor, install the wheel and screw in the pickup module in place of the points, reinstall the rotor connect the wires and away you go (basically). As Banjo suggested, it's a really good idea to remove the base plate that the points screw to, and to clean up and lubricate the bob weights, along with the vacuum advance mech with a tiny bit of oil. The retainer screws are pretty small so make sure they don't full on the ground Very easy to install. Let us know if they have a bosch item available and how you get on.

Getting slightly off topic for Graeme and Ms Princess however. Sorry, i shouldn't have moved things in that direction

You will have to get in touch with them direct Graeme. I reckon if you tell them which point set it uses, that will help them. Points usually get burnt out if you have the wrong coil or a bad condensor. It's worth giving the contact faces a wipe with metho before fitting to remove any preservative stuff too

I love the rollaclub search function. Plonked accuspark into it, and all manner of interesting progammable ignition curve info came up

That's great Banjo. I honestly would never have points in a car again. My wife had an 1100 Mk 1 Escort that would continually burn points, and they were damn hard to get at and adjust properly with feeler gauges let alone trying to get dwell right. Seriously though, points have a hard time of it and are so crucial to the reliable and efficient running of the car. An electronic replacement module is such an easy and essentially foolproof solution, and dare I say the most important and cost effective modification you can make. It's a no brainer. Of course it's equally important that the distributor is in otherwise good condition without play in the shaft for it to work properly. I'm not sure why people go for a full electronic replacement distributor, other than the fact that it's new, which when considering the one in the Princess's car is probably 40 odd years old is a reasonable thought. But as you will read elsewhere on here, that can then result in issues with the mechanical advance being wrong for the engine.

I’m a traditionalist, so everything has to be factory. Unless we are talking about points, which are the spawn of the devil. http://www.simonbbc.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Toyota note these suit the Denso distributor. If yours is Bosch, talk to them about fitment.

The catch can will run just fine. You don't need to over think it

Here’s a good post that discusses the situation in detail, and how the K motor only had the one outlet for example

Yes, often it feeds into the manifold. But in your situation it doesn't matter, as you preferably feed it into a catch can anyway. The rocker space and the crankcase are in reality connected, so pressure within the engine's non combustion areas should effectively be equal anyway.

Like this The small grille area at the top is where the PCV hose from a 3K engine feeds to the filter housing INSIDE the filter element. It then gets drawn through the carb by the engine induced vacuum

No, it feeds to the INSIDE of the air filter element and is drawn through the carb. Have a look at an air cleaner thingy, and you will see the mesh covering the inlet into the induction system. It doesn’t get drawn through the air filter.

Once you see what ends up in the can, you’ll be pleased it isn’t going through the carbs. But make sure you empty it regularly

Wouldn't the PCV feed into your aircleaner setup, as it does factory? That way the gases and crap get reburnt and don't gunge up the carbs. Generally people feed it into a catchcan though

Ta da (bottom left) http://www.retrojdm.com/ScanViewPage.asp?ScanID=116&DPI=72&Filename=08,09 - Instruments and Controls.jpg Oh, and I demand more photo's!