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silverra23

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Everything posted by silverra23

  1. My KE35 feels over braked with the Pajero Master Cylinder on it.. Mine locks a front brake very easily now which is not that much fun on the track! I am not sure if its the master or something else going on, but it might be worth doing without the master first and seeing how you go.
  2. Don't put your faith in club locks. Guys who really want your car can get them off in a jiffy.
  3. +1 for www.e-go.com.au
  4. Love this car - the wheels set it off brilliantly. Looks like its changed hands a few times in recent times, hopefully you hold on to her and do her justice with a tidy up :P
  5. Any one got any ideas on what they think this little beastie might be worth? Looks like its going to be up for sale shortly. Just need to decide whether I keep it for the 6 hour, or use my new project there.. hmm decisions decisions!
  6. And given the K engine is a knock off of the Chrysler slant 6's, its probably even older technology again :)
  7. Mate PM me if you want some - I can put you on to a guy that sells the Cusco ones. Free shipping if you mention I put you on to him. They are excellent and can be seen in my race car thread.
  8. Sounds like you are getting pretty normal consumption for a KE10 with a Toyoglide. I used to have to fill my jigger every week, costing I guess about $30ish a tank. I got a VE SV6 company car to replace it, doing similar miles, and put $70 or so in it every two weeks! Who would have though the Commodore was as good as a little KE10 on fuel! Carburettors and lack of gears is what is killing you.
  9. Seconded. Name your price or you aren't serious about selling it. That said it doesn't mean someone can't say $1,000,000, or best offer, but I agree the EOI thing is a crock.
  10. My girlfriend likes this car..she thinks we should do this though... sacrilege!!
  11. Welcome to rollaclub. Those pics must have been taken by someone talented :)

  12. Yes he is selling it.
  13. Wasn't sure where the KE26 photos should go since its kinda advertising someone else's car...hopefully its OK in here.. sorry if its not Mods.. let me know and I will put it some where more appropriate. I haven't decided yet if I am going to make an offer on it.. if you are keen to know what its like PM me and I can give you a run down. Suffice to say the interior is amazingly good, big crack in the dash being its only real fault. Body work is good and bad.. guard is faded.. left rear door is a funny colour.. corner of roof at the front is clearly bodgy.. some scrapes and dents here and there.. but a really honest neat little car. Drives really well too.
  14. It does have chrome bumpers too.. just what I need for the Hiroshima Screamer cruise :P Anyways enough dreaming and clogging up the spotted thread. Will take some photos for interested parties.
  15. hehe.. well... that depends on whether its as neat as it sounds and looks from a quick drive by.. and whether what I think it might be worth is what Peter thinks its worth. He does place a high value on most items after all :P And I really need another car don't I... NOT!
  16. Just spoke with Peter regarding this one. Definitely for sale, open to offers at this stage. ONe little old lady owner. 76000km or so. Few panels are a different colour. Interior is really good apparently - rear seat looks to have been in the down position most of its life. Drivers carpet needs replacing. Head has been replaced. New brake lines. New radiator. I will go and have a look later in the day :P
  17. Read the posts that have already replied. It tells you what the go is with tie rods. As for the ball joints, I recall reading the holes in the Sigma arms need reaming/machining to suit the Corolla ball joint. But that got said already too.
  18. I tried to call him Friday to see if it was for sale, but never got him on the line. Any ideas what he wanted for it?
  19. Thanks for the info! How does he get the extra camber - use a new hole for the lower control arm or a different LCA? Now if you can just tell me spring rates, I will be set hehe :P Jokes jokes!
  20. 4wd ride height be gone!
  21. Some pics from Phillip Island
  22. Yes there is a pretty easy bolt on disc conversion. Basically you need everything off an RT142 Corona with a solid rear axle. If you are running a hand brake then you need the cables too I think. There is a "how to" guide here on toymods - http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32132 - though I think you will need to sign up to view it. Well worth it though. You need to machine up a spacer ring to hold the bearing in place according to that guide. It also talks about moving the lower shock mount when the diff is in a Celica, but I am not sure if this would be required in a KE35 (The leaf spring retaining gear is probably far enough out of the way) I have all the bits in a box at home, just need to get brave and fit them at some point!
  23. Certainly does keep the concentration levels up! Do you do an hours stint in the 6 hour or is it broken up to 15 min stints? An hour would be rather hard work in the wet! 2.10 isn't as good as the 2.07 I did. Wasn't planning on going back again to PI this year, but I might have to so I can have another crack at bettering my times in better conditions. When are you doing a Rides thread Steve - we need another racer on show!
  24. Jaysus Evan.. you have come a long way - recommending someone do things the right way!! :P Definitely get some tabs or a bracket made up and do it properly. The other way works, but its one step away from a leaky radiator!
  25. There are some tricks to doing the bearings on the rear axle. Generally its suggested you don't press the bearings off the axle - potential for bending the axle or flange is high. I learnt this the hard way! Better to use a thin cutting wheel on an angle grinder and cut the retainer ring off, and I did the same to the bearing actually. Its easy to mark the axle doing this, so be careful. Then press the bearing on to your axle, followed by the retainer ring. Be sure to have put the 4 holed plate that holds the axle/bearing into your housing on first though - again something I learned the hard way and meant I cut up brand new bearings :P That oil seal lives inside your diff housing. Its the outer seal on your axle tube. Flick the old one out with a screw driver or something and carefully push the new one in, makign sure it seats properly and is flush etc.
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