silverra23

Nope locked diff. The issue is definitely an alignment issue - whether I have got all the geometry right when I have been using rulers and string lines is rather questionable.

No mechanical dramas this weekend so a vast improvement on Sandown. Better balanced now that it has been corner weighted properly too. Steering doesn't have me completely convinced I have to say, so I am going to talk to some of the gurus at work and see what they think. It would be hard to turn in, then suddenly snap into oversteer. This is all based on one dry run though, in the wet it was just slippery every where!

Been to Phillip Island and came home early today. Way too wet! Way too windy! But the rain was the big problem. My first session was dry, and as I got used to the car again at the Island, my best time was a 2.10.5946. About 3 seconds off what I did last time, but I was just getting my eye in (Taken from drivers excuses manual version 3.0). First in class again (out of two!) Then it p*ssed down and everything got put on hold for a while. When it softened off to just a normal every day shower they let us out again, but doing a quick time was impossible. Lots of traffic, no grip, no bravery pills... but it was kinda fun sliding out of corners, drifting on to the straight, drifting out of Siberia, etc etc etc. I had quite a few moments and packed up and came home after 2 wet sessions. Didnt want to throw the car away. I was behind a Soarer when he had a big tank slapper and spun off and gently kissed the wall, and behind a few other moments for others too. My best in the wet was 2.38.0791 Looking at lap times on natsoft it looks like it might have dried up later in the afternoon. Oh well :P Anyways here is some video of the day - angle was kinda shite as the camera was stuck to the rear view mirror and I got it ballsed up a bit. First is the highlights reel has - the beginnings of the Soarer spin (spewing the camera stopped then!!) at 1.50. A Civic having a wiggle in front of me at 2.40. 3.28 I have a wiggle out of Siberia, and then a major moment (that doesnt look that bad on the video) at Lukey Heights on 3.52. Full session video if you are feeling like doing a few slowish laps if the Island in the wet! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l71Br2_sE-0

If you haven't done this already - otomoto kits are well priced. You need to use the Corona steering knuckle, or a Sprinter one. You can drill out one of the holes on the knuckle in the Corolla one if you want to (I did it when I got stuffed around buying some AE86 power steering knuckles) but it doesn't seem like the best way to do it!

Love it!

Adjustable spring platforms on the front struts. More preload or less preload helps balance it out. Ideally there needs to be adjustment at the rear too, but no dice with a leaf spring rear end. I used corner weight scales designed for the job - used them at work.

Car is ready to roll for the PIARC Sprint this Sunday at Phillip Island . Replaced cactus alternator - took it to an Auto Electrician and everything under the sun was fixed on it - including adding gold plating - $400... ouch! Battery is fully charged now, so hopefully no more electrical dramas :P I put it back on the scales last Sunday and the corner weights are better now, if the driver loses a bit of weight they would be even better :rolls: Still got the same old tyres on it, will look at replacing them for the Winton 6 Hour I think.

In my readings I have read that the taper is different between the corolla ball joint and the sigma ball joint. The guys running it often don't care and just jam it in there and hope for the best. The guys that do care get the taper in the sigma arms machined to suit the corolla ball joint.

I will try and come in for a meal then :P

Unless you are running some truly crazy engine power, the XT130 Corona/Peugeot Ventilated Disc/Corona or Hilux Caliper is going to be more than sufficient for your needs and a whole lot less stuffing around. The Corona strut can easily be converted to coil-over and more cheaply than you would buy a set of coil overs for a Commodore too I am tipping - I believe these are still crazy expensive, though Otomto is bringing in a conversion kit for them soon. I imagine Hoppers Stoppers would be able to put a kit together for you to fit Commodore brakes to it if you really want them, they do for just about every other car.

That Celica is pure porn!

Car club meeting tomorrow night at Bells Hotel South Melbourne. Starts at 8, dinner from 7pm. PM me if you want more details :lolcry:

What are the plans for it Gav?

e-go is the way to go

It has chrome bumpers and is Japanese, so you are in :lolcry:

what are you using to apply the vinyl? you can get 3m vinyl applicators which do a really good job also sometimes doesnt hurt to put a fine mist of soapy water on the surface you are applying to first, so that you can make mistakes and work the air bubbles and wrinkles out. also means you can slide the vinyl around a little to get it into position i used to do a fair bit of signage application on race cars and it takes a bit of practice but you will get the hang of it - there were plenty of times the race cars went out with wrinkles or stickers at slightly odd angles. at 200km/h no one could tell - but may be different on a ke :lolcry:

never say never. though i don't love the 20's as much as some of the others... one could argue i have had plenty of cars that would suit crusing, i just sell them too fast!

I really need a car I can come cruising in!

TRW is a supplier of automotive components to car manufacturers. So one would assume that all the bits with their logo in it are bits they made.

I know where there is a set you could probably get for less than that. You will just have to buy the MS65 they are attached to :D http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/9540/image006ffg.jpg

No dramas at all. These sites are all about sharing information and asking questions I reckon. Thats how I got all the information to put the package together in the first place! Other suggestion is keep an eye on the forums (here, toymods and ae86DC) and try and buy the bits already done. Thats how I saved some money with the brake package.

Yes the Peugeot disc is a vented disc - better for heat disappation and give s a more consistent pedal over a number of laps. The standard one is solid and I would think more than adequate for most fast road applications. As for cheapness - well by the time I put Koni's in it and had them rebuilt, bought the Ferodo pads, had the coil over kit purchased and welded on, upgraded the wheels and tyres etc etc, I think I spent $1750. You can do it for less with cheaper shocks, no coil-overs, cheaper pads etc.

I have the RT132 strut with the Sumitomo twin piston caliper, Peugeot vented disc and Ferodo DS3000 pads, and an upgraded master cylinder. I ran this package at Sandown two weekends ago, where there is a heavy brake application at the end of the main straight, and also at the end of the back section of the circuit. Stopped very well, much better than it did previously and much more consistently with no fade. It had a tendency to lock a front tyre, which I think is a combination of perhaps too much master cylinder, old tyres and a corner weight imbalance of approximately 90kg across the front of the car. I am running at Phillip Island on August 16th, where the corner weight issue will have been addressed a little and then I will be able to better use the brakes. As it was if I stood too hard on the brake pedal I would torch a tyre, so I don't think I am using it to its full potential. So in this case its almost over braked. But with some fine tuning I think I will be able to use more of it. Worthwhile upgrade for our cars, but I would maybe not do the master cylinder, unless you were going crazy and putting the Hilux 4 piston caliper on it.

A little bit of camber won't necessarily fix your understeer issues Evan. Its more likely the package of springs and shocks you are running, along with the ride height, all contributing to it. And your tyres. And your driving style!

That stuff is not the hardest stuff to find I wouldn't think because its all the same as a KE10/11? Bootlid badge is harder, but not yet impossible. Door and boot rubbers can be bought brand new from Thailand on ebay, so they are not a show stopper. What else is missing?