silverra23

I have been starting to stress about getting all this back together in time for a hillclimb on June 21st. Came in to work this morning to find my machining is done, so happy days, hopefully it will be a busy weekend! I have had to get a few things machined to suit my chosen parts combination Using a KE35 Cusco strut top. It comes with top nuts/sleeves to slip inside the spherical bearing, but they were a different thread to my Koni 86-1991 Sport inserts. As a result I got these machined up - which are a copy of the Cusco one, but with the correct thread inside. When you buy the Otomoto coil-over kit, you need to drill the top spring hat to suit your shock shaft diameter. In my case it was 15mm. I also got a relief machined into the bottom of it so that I could put a CAT hardened washer in there. That way the shock shaft load is going into hard steel, rather than the soft aluminium of the top hat. Also needed to get a little spacer made to go between the spherical and the top hat to allow clearance for adjustment. You can see it in the next photo. The Cusco kit came with some, but again they were the wrong internal diameter for my shocks. The ones I am using are 24mm OD, 12mm ID, 7mm tall. Looking forward to making progress this weekend. My strut housings are ready to collect, so I only need to get the following parts to finish it off (only!) Wheel nuts - hopefully delivered today Gland nuts - hopefully can track some down today from Toperformance Steering knuckles - meant to be coming from Japan.. will try and dummy something else up as an interim I think Brake pads - probably going to get Ferodo DS3000. Can go back together with the metal kings for now though. Braided brake lines I picked up some second hand tyres for nothing last night, so that should have me sorted for rubber for the hillclimb too!

I think there is another member on here that might win based on that photo. How many do you have exactly? 10? 11?

Damn good photo of a damn good interior I reckon ;)

A leak will be a problem. Should be no fluid escaping at all - if it does leak you won't be able to bleed them properly or get a good pedal.

A good place for car art is here http://www.redbubble.com/ They don't have much in the way of Corolla stuff though. Be a good place to put it if you are thinking of doing some yourself

Those wheels are likely to have a PCD of 4 x 100. Your Corolla has a PCD of 4x114.5 - Toyota's and Datsuns are commonly this size.

If its the rubber line that has failed you can purchase these from Repco/Bursons/etc If its the steel hard line I would suggest taking to a mechanic or getting one from a wreckers. Replace all the rubber lines. If one has perished the rest are soon to follow.

Meeting is on this Tuesday at 8pm. Come along :bash:

Staggered how good that looks - I was expecting much worse from a roller! Well done.

Oh and I forgot to add, well done BKS - good venue and good turn out - a credit to you!

Show n Shine was a pretty good turn out and a couple of rollaclub members showed up for a look or to get their car dragged in to the show - and steal half the trophies! Modern machines were mostly order of the day, but there was enough old tin there to satisfy this enthusiast. Link to my photos from the day here - http://picasaweb.google.com.au/adamlaws197...feat=directlink Highlights were: Dave's magic TE27 - was runner up in a number of categories including interior and members choice I think. RA23 TE72 with a 3SGTE - was a Toyota exec car which had passed through a few hands. Matt's KE30 with a 7K - won best engine bay - well done - I voted for you hehe Corona RT112 - has featured in Australian Classic Car recently I always liked the ST185 WRC car Takumi was represented. Love the rear watanabes And this was the first outing for "Mission Brown", my latest acquistion, but I left her out in the car park

Just posted all this info in a tech thread, so thought I might put it in here for posterity. My upgrade plans include all the following: XT130 struts, modified to coil overs using a HSD coil over kit (otomoto sell these at an excellent price) XT130 2 pot Sumitomo calipers (may convert these to hilux 4 pots later) - it would appear the pad shape is the same as early Datsun Z cars and MkII Escorts, making race brake pads relatively easy to come by. Have to confirm this tonight when I actually pull a pad out. 6kg springs (335 lbs in the old money) - not entirely sure whether this spring is right, but I am told its a good starting point Koni off car adjustable inserts - Part number is 86-1991 Sport - revalved by Toperformance to suit the heavier springs & racing application Cusco camber tops (labelled as TE37 strut tops, sourced from A J P S) Standard KE35 LCA's as they are the same length as the XT130 AE86 power steering knuckles (you could also use standard Xt130 ones here, but I am told the AE86 power steer ones speed up the steering ratio a little - SeptemberSquall mentioned this a while back) Peugeot ventilated discs modified to suit the Corona strut (there is lots of info on this conversion on www.toymods.net) Pajero NB master cylinder (part number JB1712) to improve the pedal feel with the bigger brakes (going to try it with the standard one first - also told an 03-06 Camry non-ABS master cylinder fits and works better for the stock brake lines so will probably go with that, though its potentially a little dearer). ended up buying the Pajero one. 15 inch superlites to go over the increased brake package - 14 inch wheels will fit over this though, depending on the offset. I chose 15's because its easier to get second hand semi-slicks from improved production racers, 14's are not as popular any more.

I have added a bit more info in my original post about the brake set up I will be using. been doing some research today and my plans have evolved a little.

Valving was done so that they would suit the springs at the softest setting. They were of the opinion that I wasnt likely to want to go softer than that. Time will tell! I would have preferred being in the middle, but will see how this goes.

This thread has lots of information that is helpful in all these upgrades http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=21181

I am assuming its the bloke in Adelaide you are going to? the forum blocks out his 4 letter name that starts with A J right?

All good :bash:

Yes he is very good to deal with. The pad shape is DB1088 which is near enough identical to the Commodore rear number DB1086. I think the compound is Comp2 if I recall correctly. Happy to sell the ones I have brand new in a box. Cost me $186 delivered, so guess I would be hoping for $150. Adam

the #### man will have the steering knuckles in stock I am tipping

Its been confirmed here before hence why I am doing it :bash: Will be the same for all ke3* and ke55 Can only be used if you are using the Corona struts though - the bolt spacing on the bottom of the strut that attaches to the steering knuckle suits the Ae86 one. A standard Ke3*/55 strut will not bolt up to the Ae86/Corona steering knuckle as they are narrower by a couple of mm.

What size are you looking for??

Strut inserts are back. Will have a play on the long weekend so that I can work out where the coil over sleeve needs to be welded on to the strut. Rebuild of the shocks ended up beign $250, most of which was labour, as they spent some time revalving them to suit my racing application with the 6kg front springs.

I am upgrading my KE35 race car with this stuff as we speak. I am going to be running: XT130 struts, modified to coil overs using a HSD coil over kit (otomoto sell these at an excellent price) XT130 2 pot Sumitomo calipers (may convert these to hilux 4 pots later) - it would appear the pad shape is the same as early Datsun Z cars and MkII Escorts, making race brake pads relatively easy to come by. 6kg springs (335 lbs in the old money) - not entirely sure whether this spring is right, but I am told its a good starting point Koni off car adjustable inserts - Part number is 86-1991 Sport - revalved by Toperformance to suit the heavier springs & racing application Cusco camber tops Standard KE35 LCA's as they are the same length as the XT130 AE86 power steering knuckles (you could also use standard Xt130 ones here, but I am told the AE86 power steer ones speed up the steering ratio a little) Peugeot ventilated discs modified to suit the Corona strut (there is lots of info on this conversion on www.toymods.net) Pajero NB master cylinder to improve the pedal feel with the bigger brakes (going to try it with the standard one first - also told an 03-06 Camry non-ABS master cylinder fits and works better for the stock brake lines) 15 inch superlites to go over the increased brake package - 14 inch wheels will go over this though, depending on the offset On the rear my car runs inverted leaf springs, but I don't know what spec they are, and a Koni adjustable shock. The car also has a K-mac sway bar on the front which I think is 24mm if I recall correctly. And I run a CIG locker in a T-series (Celica) rear end which gives me bigger drums on the rear than standard Ke35. You mention putting 6kg springs in the rear - unless something has been modded in your car, it will have leaf springs, not coils, so all that talk of modded Falcon springs etc will not apply. For hillclimbing I think you may well find the Corona stuff is over kill if you are just starting out. I have done a number of track days on the standard Ke35 rotor which had a Ke70 caliper adapted to it and using a Race Brakes pad that was designed for the rear of Commodore cup cars. It stopped well and took quite a hammering. I will soon be selling the old struts/brakes out of my car with a set of new pads as I am sure they would be a good upgrade over the standard stuff. If budget was more of an issue I would look at putting KYB Excel-G shocks in your car front and rear - they are a good performance shock without breaking the bank. There are some photos of my progress in my rides thread if you want to have a look.

Reckon they are postive 12 - the centre is closer the the outer edge than inner if that makes sense? Fronts still need coil overs put together. Which are waiting for the inserts to be rebuilt.

Test fitted a wheel to the rear. It fits! Was worried it mightn't with the offset of 12P (whatever that means!) Need to get proper wheel nuts for them.