SLO-030

Alrighty! David (Rollaboy70) came down this afternoon, and boy there was some work done! Removed the diff, tailshaft, fuel tank, sparewheel holder, rear brake line, shocks and handbrake cables from the donor car. Got the diff into the wagon so it rolls now. Only running standard KE38 leaves at this stage, till i get bushes for the new ones (34mm current bushes vs 50mm new ones) Tomorrow is all go go go. Tail shaft and gearbox oil are first off. then the fuel tank and spare holder. Connect the front and rear brakes then bleed em all up. Steering box, column and wheel complete the front suspension/steering. Bonnet, LH 1/4 panel, Bonnet, Bumper, Grille and headlights complete the exterior. Rear seat, seat belts, door windows complete the interior. Weld the exhaust up, rear shock mounts and handbrake cables render the car driveable ^.^ EDIT: Massif thanks to David for coming down all that way.

Shouldnt be too hard, just needs a fuel tank, diff, rear fuel and brake lines. and the doors put together.

Back when used to work on B&S's daily, the old mechanic told me that they're only built to last about 25hrs. No mains bearings either... Maybe you've hit something hard previously and its been enough for it to crack and finally come off.

How'd you go Temp wise on the trip home?

Hey Tom, RCR laser did the cutting for me. Prices were great, obviously cheaper with the more you order. Using 1" (i think) Mild steel tube (got heaps real cheap) With teflon coated brass sphericals. All up cost price to make a brace is about $60-70. ***UPDATE*** Alrighty, been busy over the past 4 or so days since i been on here. Got my Z68, and GTX. Filled it up with the good stuff. Put a battery in it and checked all the electrical were working which came up good except the heater fan. Over-rode the immobiliser (no disarm button). Kicked it over a couple of times to fill the bowl and make sure there was oil pressure. Hit the ignition and i fired right up. Didnt run it for long due to no oil in the gearbox. Quite Happy :happy: Put the radiator and overflow in and filled with some coolant. Got the rear windscreen and seal in tonight. Luc came down and we got the minta dash pad in, aswel as the front seats. Probably wont be a goer for the cruise tomorrow but should be good for tomorrow night. CHEERS Ryan

Well, i put my struts together monday night, brand new Pedders Comfort Gas (Thanks to RKE055) shocks along with lowered Lovells springs. Got the mounting plates for the strut brace on monday also. Test fitted them tonight and they fit like a finger in a bumhole (not Luc's). Really happy with how they came out. Got 2 spare pairs of plates that are up for grabs. Gonna pick up a Z68 filter or smaller equivilant tomorrow night, maybe some gear oil and see if i can get the thing to turn over!

Assumption, the mother of all feck ups. As mentioned, the T series being a front loader diff, the snout will be longer.

For an LSD id say they'd be on the same shelf as rocking horse shit. I don't even think there's a bolt in LSD for the Jap diffs (due to the size) but who knows. The axles on the borgie's are stronger than the Jap equivelant, but the Jap centers are strong than the Borgie's apparently. Looks like its got a set of pretty agricultural slapper bars on there too!

They are a 6" diff as opposed to a KE20 with a 5.7" if i remember correctly. Its a diff out of a late KE55, due to it having mounts for a rear swaybar. Car looks to be in pretty good condition, where are you located?

Welcome mate. Looks like you have the BorgWarner diff (late KE30/KE55) with 228mm drums. CHEERS Ryan

Cheers Jimi, Plan to have it running during the week. Just need some oil and filter for the engine. Some oil and a buttplug for the gearbox. Wanna make sure all the wiring is as it should be.

Thanks guys. All the underdash wiring is back in. managed to get the bottom half of the dash in... Sorry for the shitty pics, camera on me phone is buggered.

Spotted my first KE50/55p in the flesh last night. Approx 1am on north east rd. I think. Spotted it going the other way, so I had to chucky a u turn and catch up with :P

KE30 leaves, reversed eyes, set for a 3/4" drop overall, extra leaf and a half rebound leaf on top ( half traction leaf/ anti-tramp leaf) Exactly the same setup as what's going into the back of the wagon.

Ahhhh, i thought you were talking about where the outlets on the rad are...

The finish time for the wagons was meant to be this weekend. I've now realised that i wont be able to meet that. All the little bits will be taken care of during the week and hopefully have it up and ready for the cruise on the 3rd.

What drugs are you on SLW :P K series is the same ;)

Grabbed the engine bay and underdash looms, along with the brake booster and front lines from Jason! Engine bay all wired in. Not quite as tidy as I would have liked but still alot better than stock! All new loom tube makes a difference. Extended a few wires to tidy up the body to engine routing.

You don't need out permission to come on a cruise. Just rock up and introduce yourself :yes: don't worry, there will be a few 1.2's, 1.3's and 1.5's more than likely coming so i wouldnt worry about not keeping up.

Possibly a webber carb on a SC14 draw thru setup with a water to air intercooler.

Cheers Mate :cool: Bought my tailgate seal today. On the catalogue that clark rubber has, it says the KE38 requires 3.5 meters of seal. As the person serving me was measuring it, I got them to get 4 metres....just in case. Got back and began puting it on. after installing and trimming it. i was left over with only 4 or 5 inches! Bloody lucky if you as me :dance: New seal installed Replaced all my bailey channels today. THIS... Was replaced with...THIS! 4K and Gearbox in..

Wanna offload an offcut or 2? wouldnt mind making a table myself.

The D-dish 5K had the lugs on the head and slightly bigger ports. The O-dish 5K had no lugs. Virtually identical to a 4K head, smaller ports.

Alrighty. Modified the gearbox crossmember last night. Engine and gearbox are now in the car and all mounted. Not 100% happy with the gearbox mount, but will sort that out later. pp Need to find both engine bay looms and the underdash loom as someone has chopped and changed this one, don't wanna be chasing electrical problems due to somone else having cut and shut bits and pieces. Once an underdash loom is found i can put the dash in :y:

How does one find if they have a "firebomb" carb?