Raven

True, then again, there is no chance of your 20 or 26 looking half as good even after you modify them :lolcry:

Buy the wreck and part out what you can from it that isnt damaged. Doors, front headlights, engine etc.

Wait till the yellow one is finished, will look even better than it does now :lolcry:

I know how you can fix it good and proper.....You just need to move out of Sydney and all your problems will be solvered! :P

Come on guys, give him a break. It was his first post. Lucky he's not one of those people that only sign up to sell something. I'd say that your carbs will need equal pressure and i'm not sure if you can do this by putting a boost friendly gasket kit through them and fill the float to make it solid, or if you have to enclose them in via a custom built, two piece plenum. Anyone? Taz? Madrolla?

Haha, that roof lining is trippy :P Wouldn't wanna be dizzy and sitting in the car :P

This one is going to be my daily while the yellow one gets most of my cash. Once my Magna sells, the cash from that is going straight into the yellow car for sand/bead or soda blast and all the rust repaired and have the car etch primered ready for a coat of fresh paint :P

Yeah i got dicked around with the wrong oil filter, then I pulled all the front grille and light surrounds off to make it fit better, then put it all back together. The oil change actually took me 20 mins once I had the right filter :D

Pfft, white walls and hubcaps are done to death. If anything, lower it, throw on some Tosco rims ala TE27 and bolt up some flares to it :D

So I got as far as doing an oil change today as I had to fit a fuel filter on my old man's VS Wagon, so I didnt get a chance to pop out the dent unfortunately. Next weekend will see me pick up some leaf springs and rear bootlid hinges for my other 25 :D

The rear section of the gearbox (where the shifter bolts into), as Felix has stated, sits further back than a KE55 5 speed. So if you swap the KE70 5 Speed rear housing over with a KE55 5 Speed rear housing, it will bring the shifter location forward so you don't have to do a heap of cutting of the transmission tunnel like you would with the current extension housing. So it effectively converts your 5 Speed from a KE70 5 Speed (further back shifter location) to a KE55 5 speed (closer, but not quite factory). Hopefully that explains it better. :D

Source a KE55 5 speed rear gearbox extension housing and swap it all over to make it line up in the original position :D

Should check this out if meatwater isnt for you :D

Flat waterproof black paint and I'm going to change the hubs/rear axles over to KE30 items. Just need to shorten the rear axles 5mm. Then I'll get the same rims and wont have the need to drill them out to fit. :D

Rust is very minimal. Nothing like my yellow one, thats for sure. :D

So I see a few people were looking forward to a thread on my current daily. About a week ago, I saw that KE25 KID was selling his KE25 (complete with bent axle and buckled rim), so I snapped it up on the proviso that I could get the car running as it wasnt running at all. So I drove down to his place and proceeded to work through the mistakes that the 'mechanic' had done to get the car running again. First up, the car didnt run at all. Upon closer inspection the dizzy was wayyyyyyyyy out of alignment and a dodgy fix to the rotor button had been attempted. So I pulled out the dizzy, realigned the oil pump and with a couple of love taps from SST #1 (hammer), I seated the dizzy back in and fitted a new rotor button. The car was then firing only on two cylinders, those two being number 1 and 4. 2 and 3 decided that they wouldnt run. So I checked out the exhaust system as it was noisy as. What I found was one nut missing off the exhaust flange off the bottom of the exhaust manifold, so with a nut provided by none other than KE25 KID, I tightened them up and the car fired up. I timed it by ear and then I drove it home. When I got home, I parked it and went out and came back to checking out the car the next day. I noticed that the other exhaust flange nut had disappeared so off to Superdodgy Auto to get myself another nut. Once that was sorted, I checked the manifold bolts and all were lose, so I tightened them up too. I then obtained another KE20 axle and another rim (had to re-drill the stud pattern and remove old wheel studs from bent axle and fit them to the new one as it didn't have any) and fitted them up today. While under the car, I noticed that the exhaust flange halfway down the car had been undone and there were no bolts attached. I did this up too. Then me and my old man adjusted the steering box, which removed most of the quarter of a turn free-play that the car had. Tomorrow its getting an oil change (as its running crappy oil and we wont go there as to why :D) and i'm going to start popping out the dent under the rear quarter window to get it ready for a coat of paint :lol: Feel free to ask questions :D Cheers Raven

Will also keep my eyes peeled as I'll be out North tomorrow after lunch. Hope you get it back in one piece champ.

How is your wiring coping Rob? :D

Well, its not going to stop the bubbles now, but it can prolong the dash from cracking for a little while, so yeah, reapply it, but get a vinyl conditioner, not Armor All protectant. :D

Off topic: sixsixone - I have been in three bands. Recrimination, Within Reason and lastly it was The Ascension Process. I have seen Asphyxia play a few times. I'm also on the Adelaide Metal Forums.

The moment you put on anything like Armor All, you have to keep on applying it or the dash dries out and cracks. Not good at all. Get a dash mat for your car instead.

I've been told by my co-worker (I'm now an Auto Parts Interpreter) that the Hella 7 Inch Round Headlights are awesome. :D

Just gotta wait till people spot me in the KE25 now :D

Yep, you sure could. You can use anything thats 7 inches in diameter. :D

Coronas 14's don't hit on the front struts of my KE25 :D