oh what a nissan feeling!

Personally a big fan of JBL, their 8 inch speakers, amps, ect. are unbeatable, or on a budget JVC seems to be real good value for money. I avoid sony and pioneer, in the average level range they seem to suck. Sounds like your old man knows what he,s doing. Make sure you run everything off an amp, or all those good quality speakers go to waste.

^^^^agreed. The mechanic has a point, its not worth the expense if you have to pay someone to do it, probably should keep an eye out for a replacement motor though :sob:

Love your work man, its rare to see rust done properly, you have one hell of a job ahead of you! I don't envy the gasless mig, you must be keen!!

^^^^ thanks man, champion :sob:

^^^^^^^ i'll pass that on :hmm: One axel shortened, both sides of housing cut down. Custom tailshaft, nissan bluebird front uni, falcon rear. Any old datsun tailshaft will slide into the sr20 5spd.

Actually its the other way round, you cannot spray acrylic over 2 pac primer, but you can use 2 pac over acrylic primer.

Nice work man, diy is the only way to learn, good to see you are doing the paint properly.

I used the borgewarner78, i got it from an eb falcon cos i wanted the falcon brakes, most people seem to use the one out of the skyline r31, because they have the right stud pattern. both have the same centre, and there is any ratio you want available from pintaras, skylines, falcons, commodores, ect.

Nope, never a positive thing, but from my experience the car didnt jump off the road either, thats said you wouldnt do it to a car you want to really handle, lowering also upsets the same principles. Personally i would use ta22 struts, the disk is about the size of the 55 ones, but the shock is much shorter, so when you go low, you don't run out of travel.

Man that sounds a bit scary. You can get primer from any paint shop, they will guide you as to what you need.

I wll pass on the compliments :cool: i recon its awesome, its the first car she's ever done, she normally does beach, and african stuff. Its a shame the rola is not ever going to look like that anymore, :hmm: :hmm: well she probably would change your cars oil, last time she filled her hyundai right to the top though, so you may need alot more than 4 litres.

A little bit of stuff has been happening to the rola, been doing a bit of painting inside the rola to the bits that don't get seen. Does anyone know where to get dry ice from????? Finished my gaurds and undercoated them yesterday, still not happy with them, i think i will go and buy a set of new ones tomorrow instead. Also pulled all the new gear out of the engine bay, to send it away to get coated. My girlfriend does a bit of oil painting, she finished this a few weeks ago, pretty cool i recon!

Thanks mate, good to know before i rip it apart.

Does anyone know if the flex plate and stall converter are interchangeable between the toyoglide and the trimatic. I have a toyoglide and am about to put a tri in, but need to know if i have to source the tri's flex plate and stall converter first. Thanks for any help :hmm:

The dipstick has a max and a minimum marked on it, usually a strip of rough near the end, fill it to the maximum,

Make sure you try them on before you buy, you can never be sure the offset is going to work on your car, the front in particular may have clearance issues with the strut.

By what you described, if you took a zero off you would still be paying too much. Sitting for a few years does bad things for the rust situation. If you love the car, look out for a similar one, the moss green is a factory colour, so thats a start.

Yep, definately the same stud pattern, offsets need to be checked though. New tyres, and rims, good deal for sure!

:) :y: :KY: :D:groupwave::groupwave::groupwave: :bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce: so................... pictures please........................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm ready :popcorn:

I think they are just popular for the cost. I know of two perfectly good running ones i have been offered for free. I thought about it for my crown, but decided i want to upgrade the power, not downgrade. Plus the V6 gearboxes suck.

I don't think you will really need the ke wiring diagram, you will only want to remove wires from there eg. starter, alternator, ignition, as these will be in the soarer engine loom. Then as tas_rx said you will need to take ignition power, full power, from your existing corolla fuse box to relays, You must use relays so you don't overload the existing corolla loom. Try these for the 1jz diagram: http://soarercentral.com/cgi-bin/sc-forum/discus.cgi http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/index.php http://forums.performanceforums.com/forums/ My brother is currently doing a 2jz conversion and got his diagram off supraforums, On a 2jz there is only 5 wires that need to be plugged into the engine loom to start the motor, its really easy to wire in an old car like your rola :(

:yes: :P :cool: Any one got about 20 grinder blades, and want 20s on your car, heres the man to talk to. :yes: :P :( click here for a good laugh

Its all go now then :yes: mine was a 4.1 as well, apparently the mapping graph changed a heap for the better, so it was definately worth the postage cost. One thing they don't upgrade though is the ability to run a wideband o2 sensor, which is a pain in the arse, innovate here i come!

:yes: Better find the prepsol :P thanks gents, ive never gone to this much trouble before, see what rain does to me, made me crazy :cool: My computer arrived today too.

Motor finished painted inlet manifold Injectors out of the 5k look a bit the worst for wear So i found some donar ones out of my brothers crashed camry (he's on his third one), and they were only recently cleaned apparently,