oh what a nissan feeling!

yeh, no zx10 for 6 months either. Yep, it hurts, i think I'm starting to get the shakes, i need my fix!

Very nice car man, the choice of color is very original, and works so well. Interesting, almost everyone seems to like that model grill as a favourite, me too!

A bit of petrol/ kero or whatever, and a wire brush is the go. It might sound harsh but will do way less damage than any sandpaper would.

yep, illegal is not the go. that 5k looks to be the goods.

Will probably get shot for this, but i had an lj torana rear spoiler here that i bought with hopes and dreams many moons ago. It is perfect length, and curve, it only requires the ends to be glassed to suit and it is pretty much a fit. It doesnt look too much different from the ones youre looking at?? :jamie:

It has been a busy weekend on the rola, stripping it back, removing anything and everything. I think i have done this way too many times, not once did i sit and think "i wonder how this comes off", i could nearly do it in my sleep me thinks.

$1500-2000 seems a little expensive, that must be frontcut? I say go the motor/gearbox package which should cost you under $1000, then spend the extra on an aftermarket computer, eg. haltec, wolf. approx $1400 Then your wiring troubles are solved also (as these are easy to wire up). And a tune can also be found quite cheap. You have also then allowed room for futher upgrades. Eg turbo. With a stock sr20de in my ke30 it ran an easy 14.9 at the drags, thats with a bit of wheel spin. It also pulled out 110 hp at the wheels on the dyno. The only changes from stock were aftermarket computer and 2" exhaust, (stock manifold)

hello everybody, I'm just about to start ripping my ke30 apart again, for a complete build, so i thought i may as well show my progress. I recently restored my ke25, with a bare metal respray, all the chrome, and the result turned out unbelievable IMO, so have decided that it is time for the ke30 to get a facelift, using the exact same styling :wink: I shall quickly introduce my vehicle ---------------------------------------- Anyways, this is my ke30, when i it looked its best. It is always under development, particularly in the driveline department. I have to say it spends more time getting worked on then driven. The old man helped me first drop a sr20de it it a few years back. I then turbocharged it with gt28rs and it made 230hp@ wheels on 10psi. through my carelessness this blew up. I then quickly put together a turbo bottom end i had in the shed, with new rings and gaskets. This made 288hp@ wheels on 19psi still with the gt28rs. i have since pulled the manifolds off this motor, and sold the gt28rs, to fund a gt3076r. Due to a loss of licence, the corolla is undergoing a complete overhaul in the next 6 months.

:wink: :D :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: No matter how hard you try to fight it, it will always turn out to be true.

^^^^Yep, this is true. A simple mod plate can be very cheap, a full engineers report can be very expensive. Generally, an engineers report is obtained when your engineer follows the build of your car while it is not registered, inspecting it at various stages along the way, and at the end, you cop a bill, and a pretty blue plate. A mod plate can be obtained for as little as $40 (lucky cos i have 7 so far), for something as simple as putting forced induction on an existing motor. Remember, for any mod plates your entire vehicle will be first inspected for a full rwc.

looks like he is roughly on the right track. You are going to have to remove that bumper to make it easier to get the welder in there. Also, on the rear of the car there is a factory seam there (from memory), try to replicate the seam back there to give a neat finish.

I'm pretty sure the new laws allow no mod plates either (engine conversions included). If you really want a six, the toyota options are much shorter. A 1g motor is a very short 6 and will fit without firewall mods, also the 1j and 2js are (from memory) about 100mm shorter than the rb20. Both of the toyota options are a better motor too. ......I'm no pureist, just making things easier for you.

I personally like the look of these flares. On the other hand i couldnt bring myself to rape the shit out of my perfectly good car by putting them on. If you have bad wheelarch rust, then i guess it would definately be a good option. :D

Ive always liked blue with a grey interior, i think it matches very well. As for white, my interior is white marine vinyl, and its a hell of a lot easier to keep clean compared to the black velour i had previously. I think something needs to be said for the material choice.

....and bullshit before everything! Awesome car mate, i love the rims.

Take it to a panel beater. He will be able to measure it up, and tell you what you are up against. There is the possibility that the strut tower has not moved, in this case it will not affect the way the car drives, once the other bent components are replaced. so before you write the car off, get someone who has a clue to look at it. 8|

never too big if you get the right sized chokes.

Very nice mate, Neat fit too, plenty of room for pipes, what are you gonna use it for? I like the top left of the last pic too, thats what gets us through them long nights!!

they are just the outer rim, you still need to find donar centres from a falcon, and weld them in. It just saves you grinding out some sunrasia 4wd centres for the 7" or 8" rim. Theyre 15" rims too.

Yeh, definately easier, its enough of a pain grinding the centres out of the old rims, doin both would suck. Race Engineering 33766275, theyre at Sumner Park in bris. Skinnys were low $50s, fats were high $50s :)

A) by a heap, nothing could look better on the old rollas. Definately no window tint!!! My reasoning is that they should look like the classics that they are.

Yep, easy 11 with some boost. I have the number of the guy who supplies blank rims in bris if you need it, you can get 4, 7, 8 inch theyre about $55 each, I'm halfway through making mine.

I think most people remove these entirely, and mount the diff straight to the leaves, it reduces axel tramp a fair bit. Just a suggestion :P

In my n/a turbo sr20 the rod was the first to go, it really does depend on the motor, and the abuse level. I believe that lighter rods are a big advantage in an n/a motor, and are factory fitted for a reason. I dare say that most newer factory rods these days can handle a fair bit, and only detonation would be able to bend or break one