oh what a nissan feeling!

In your situation, and presumably on a tight budget i would go a t3 off a r33 rb25 skyline, this will be best bang for buck, and is a t3 flange. If not on a tight budget, let us know, cos it only gets better.

A to4 can be quite a large turbo, with many different housing sizes, be careful to get the right one, special attention being payed to exhaust housing size.

The t25 would be a good size for your 3t, it is certainly not suited to max hp application but rather to 12psi to standard boost, and , with the extra boost, a noticeable increase to standard hp. you can buy a flange adaptor on ebay for about 160, personally i would just make one as it would be pretty easy. :bash:

Yeh, my gun is relatively crap, and it sprays around 30-35, so id start about there. I borrow when i can the old mans one from work. Never try any of this with acrylic, only 2pac. With 2pac enamal will react with the undercoat, but with acrylic you can use enamal as a guide coat if you really want, it tends to clog your paper real bad though. :sob: One more thing, never wet sand, the only time water should go anywhere near it is to wash off paint stripper, or when sanding the top coat to buff. :hmm:

My mate recons the loctite one is excellent, i havnt tried it i just use that killrust stuff, does the job. The spray gun pressure is one of those questions,it depends on too many things, what sort of paint, what thickness, tip size of the gun, but mostly the gun itself, the quality of the gun means plenty, usually the crap guns need more pressure whereas a really good gun can spray at almost nothing. I usually waste a fair bit of paint playing with this spraying a box or something before going near the car. Make the adjustment on the gun not the compressor and If your gun has a gauge just ignore it, and go off what you see while spraying something.

1. correct 2. What paint are you using? Acrylic or 2pac? U must etch the metal, with acrylic this can be just with a brush on tin because its really thin stuff, you can bog over any etch. Primer is a separate thing that is applied over your finished filler work (bog). 3. Donot use enamal, it will cause reaction particularly with 2pac. Guide coat is used as a reference for when you are attempting to remove dents, so how often you guide coat is up to you. I do it on the bog several times, and also when rubbing off the undercoat incase i missed anything. 4. If you are using clear then you only need enough colour to cover, usually 3 coats, depending on colour. the first coat should be a mist, as this prevents runs. 5. Clear is cheaper then colour, so use it to get enough paint on there to give it a good buff. The clear will also add depth to your paint. as for mixing with the colour its a matter of opinion, if it 2pac don't, if its pearl or metallic don't. I wouldnt bother. Hope this helps :sob:

Hey man lookin good. :) :( :y: I think the commo brakes will keep you very happy. :D Probably a bit late now but for the sr20de+t it is better to use the s13 motor as these have 9.5:1 comp which is still fairly turbo friendly. The s14 ones are 10:1, so watch your tuning and boost.

Believe me, it fits, and it fits well. The sump it like its made for the car, it easy clears the brakes, and has plenty of room for a large radiator and fan. It clears everything, and about the only thing it doesnt do is bolt straight up.

Oh yeh, and don't forget to flare both ends so the hoses don't pop off :y:

Upgrade both of the lines to the same size, donot have two different line sizes. Use 10mm external diameter METAL tube, you can get this from any good auto shop,in any length, you can bend it by hand. Using a too small return can cause serious problems. 10mm is the biggest efi hose available, and is suitable for any future upgrades. :y:

I think you will have problems finding something to fit, i spent a long time trying, it is really rare to have the outlets that way. I recon just go to the radiator place and get the stocko radiator changed over if its just for mods approval.

Its been a long time since i started this, but with the ke30 lunching itself, i got delayed a fair bit, now the ke30 is going strong again, the little blue beast is nearly finished! :cool: http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t235/sr...me/PICT0636.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t235/sr...me/PICT0635.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t235/sr...me/PICT0634.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t235/sr...me/PICT0633.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t235/sr...me/PICT0632.jpg Just waiting to get the new hood lining to get back, and i can put the glass back in and drive it! :S I still havnt ordered my venitian yet, but i have some mazda rims with trim rings and centre caps, just have to get the white walls on them. and it should look pretty nice. :hmm:

You will need a relay to hook up fuel pump. In an aftermarket situation the power is supplied by you and the computer supplies an earth when it wants the pump to start . Not sure if this is how factory 4a works though.

Only one of those is even close to legal. :jamie:

double valve springs consist of a smaller in diameter spring that sits inside one of the original size. YOU have the choice of upgrading the outer spring and adding an inner, or you can just add an inner and keep your old outer spring. I have used PERFORMANCE SPRINGS in the past, and they are very well priced. Being ohc the spring upgrade needed should be alot less compared to a pushrod motor, this does depend on the lift of your cam though. The danger with getting too heavy is you can wear your cam prematurely, i have seen one cam last 5,000 ks .

Yeh i have read a recent article where someone just put one in a ke20 in nsw. And he only just did it. must be still possible in nsw.

Get the arp bolts off american ebay, works out real cheap compared to here. Ever heard of a plumbback bov, and the power you will have will be approx half what a turbo would give, but good luck all the same.

In that case the time is pretty impressive, i was gonna do the auto, but run out of time so i had to put a 5 speed back in. its hard to decide on a stall speed, also c4 vs tri, Tri will suit the nissan bellhousing better, but c4 is better box.

Man sounds like youre doin it tough with the wiring, and pulling the motor out a whole lot, good to see youre still keen. The engine bay looks real nice, kind of like that commo colour that was all the talk a few years ago. mmm race seats, one day.............. :y: Keep us informed man. Ca18rolla nice time :) you should be going faster though, what tramp setup do you have, caltrac? I know youre running drag radials, what mph did you run?

It is legal at present. The rules are changing very soon. Personally i would put it on hold until the changes come through, unless youre gonna be done in 2 weeks.

^^^^^^^WRONG!!! Phatke30 is correct. Just go in and change your number. In the modifications guide for engineers it states that the same series of engine can be bolted into certain cars. eg. 202 into lj torana ect ect. and requires no mod plate. It also gives the max size for each particular vehicle.

260hp out of a n/a 1600 :kiwi: :) ;) ;) , thats fantastic, i love it

yeh the rear glass, where the door would be if it was 4 door.

my last car was a bluebird wagon called the 'mattywagon' The ke30 is dubbed 'kermi' cos thats what my mates call it when they pay it out. I call it 'greeny', and the ke25 is called 'bluey'. The skyline is called the 'the dunger', or the 'fag mobile', cos it is a hard car to respect.

yeh it was sent immediately, it took about 2 weeks though to get here. I still have to go to rare spares for my quarter windows like you said, will have to call them, cos your price sounds much better.