oh what a nissan feeling!

Yep, it is definately a nice car. i also could get no traction, i had 4 people and a boot full of wheels and trolley jack and still couldnt bite in till 4th, but mustve got better traction then him. I'll make that date to race, cos i love it, too much damn fun, maybe he'll get his chance at the next one in a few months, i'll be there, i don't really care if he destroys me to be honest, i just wanna race :P :wink: ] Well, there was a dyno there.................

Yeh i did see the purple lj, nice car, i actually met him on the track too, but i doubt he will tell you about that.

Well finally got it on a dyno, pretty happy with that, stock sr20det + gt28rs + 19psi =288hp@wheels or 218kw.

All of the sumps are the same, and interchangeable :P Here are some close ups ive taken, hopefully they help some are a bit hard to decipher. sump to crossmember clearance. Firewall to back of motor clarance from drivers side Front of motor to radiator support panel. Steering box clearance taken from the front, the closest thing is the manifold support bracket and again Booster clearance, this is a commodore 5/16 master which is identicle externally to ke55 master cyl. and again... gearbox to passenger side clearance to tunnel, note: unbashed celica ta22 mount, passenger side clearance The neat fit over the crossmember, taken from behind underneath the car on passenger side. And the gearbox crossmember..... Thats about it, hope this helps your cause, goodluck!

Hey all, one day powerplay is on tomorrow 23rd. I have entered the green rola, so if anyone is building something similar and would like to come for a spin for a bit of inpiration, or spin yarns, my name is matt. My car is sr20det with gt28rs on 21psi :jamie:

Is your motor s13, or s14/15, Pics still commin.

I think it sound like you have the motor a bit too far off the firewall? mine sits about 15-20mm. Youre right though i looked a bit harder today and got my hands dirty, and the clearance between inlet manifold (s13) and steering box is about 10mm maybe even a touch less. I did not have to use a hammer on anything near the front of the box, only down near the shifter was a cut and weld job. My motor sits slightly to the passenger side on a minor angle, you can't see it, but you can tell if you measure. I attemped to get you some close up photos today but its already tooo dark and you can't tell much. I will try again tomoz, and post em up. :)

hmmm. Its workin for me??

Oy man click page 2 of my link below

I don't know what you have hitting on the steering, i can't see anything that could. Basically all you need to do to fit the motor is cut off old engine mounts and move them, reangle them, and reweld them. The rear crossmember needs to be custom made but is real easy. Use the front uni and tailshaft from a bluebird or any old datto, don't use the silvia one as the unis are not replaceable. Other than that you need to fit a pedal box from a ta22, apparenly its not too difficult. The wiring goes to an auto electrician, probably about $600max to get that sorted. You need to get a surge tank and a lift pump and pressure pump mounted in your boot, plus get the tank modified to have a low pickup point. Do this before the auto elec sees it so he can wire it for you. Other then that, you will have to sort out intercooler plumbing, radiator (mine is custom). All of this will have to be done regardless of if you go for 4agze or sr20det, only the sr will have more grunt. :) This is a basic of what youre up against, any more questions just ask, or pm again.

This must be a camry problem, my bros camry wags did exactly the same thing only 2 months ago, the bad news is out comes the motor and box, damn. On the bright side, a brand new clutch fork was only $50 which is cheap for genuine parts.

This is a misconception about sr20s, it happens, but very rarely, and only with very high lift cams (at least 12.5mm) and a very full house(high boost)motor. Also if this happens it will not wreck your motor, but you need to pull the camshaft out to change the rocker. Converting to gtir gear (solid lifters) does not prevent this from (in a very rare instance) happening.

lol, i wish more people would tune their sr20s. Got any pics of that ta22, i love them cars!

^^^^ I would agree with that, the 4ag seems to be an amazing motor, however if 300rwkw is what you are chasing i say start with cubic inches as a 300kw 4a would be a laggy pigdog. As for the initial expense of the motor, my srde+t cost $800 for motor and box, $800 for gt28rs, $80 for manifold, $100 for lines, and made an unbreakable 230rwhp.

Heres my ke25 with the monaro blue, i like the colour so much i think the ke30 may change too in a few months. The down side is this is a stage 4 colour $85 a litre. The color is actually a bit darker than this, the green pearls seems to play with the camera.

Nope, but I'm keeping the radiator, the motor itself hard against the firewall measured to finish past the radiator support and just behind the grill. Go the 1g, much smaller 6 if thats what youre lookin for, you should be able to cope without the extra power.

Wrong section. I measured this when i had my skyline, you would have to recess the firewall about a foot, have fun!

I got the good old cone type, my mates falcons and commos burn them in minutes, however because of the weight of the corolla i have had mine for 2.5 yrs now and it still is like the day it got shimmed, which is a real shock, so it aint such a bad cheap option.

Fj20, nice choice!!! The unbreakable nissan 2 litre! Tidy fit too.

Wowsers, i never saw these replys last month, probably a bit late now, but the colour was $85 per litre and i used 3, plus 4 litres of clear, it is all 2pac clear over base, because i am set up for 2pac. It was a phase 4 colour on the charts because of how much green pearl it has in it. I used 3 litres of paint stripper, this can vary heaps though depending on how many coats of paint the car has on it, i did a celica once and it took 8litres! lol nah, thats off the green one, it 3" so yeh it is a bit massive for the 1300.

Try caravan builders, boat trailer builders, boat builders, they always have something for me, usually for a small cashy fee too.

HA ha, cumon give the r1 a chance, you can't even keep the wheel on the ground in 1st, and that lasts till 130kph. Try racing to 200(on a track) and see if the rola is still there. The rola looks like she hauls but.

Dynos are generally not comparable. I have seen some very funny reading come from some dynos, one example is an sr20 powered gt28rs escort produce 420hp@wheels. :no2: not possible. The only way to compare a dyno reading is with a dyno dynamics dyno in "competition mode". All comps are run in this mode, and it is proven within reason that your car will read the same power anywhere in this mode. JC807 don't stress too hard on your dyno reading,it means stuff all, the only true way to work out horsepower is using your mph time at the drags, and a morosso calculator. Also when i first got my car going as srde it felt pretty disappointing too, i think na four cyls just don't have a seat of pants feel. The more races i got the more i was convinced the thing certainly wasnt slow. :wink:

56.1kw + ke20 = lots of fun!

Sounds like a sweet ride, although dynos are quite variable, my guess is at 68hp. Sorry 68kw, my bad.