irokin

from memory only... someone else can correct or confirm 4E-FTE is from the EP82 (and EP91???) GT starlet 3E-TE is from the GP turbo corolla? Tom (TOMsGPTurbo) should be able to help more than I can...

rofl "I might not even be alive in 5 years time!!" By that logic males under 25 should be able to get yearly renewals in the ACT too :cool:

And considering QLD raceway is solidly booked at least 12 months in advance, you'd think theyd get the message. WE NEED MORE TRACKS! anyway. How about we all enter into a saturday afternoon sprints at QLD raceway as a group. and I'm going out soon regardless (I promised my father a thrash in the celica, which ended up turning into the silvia)

Well...the box is fine again. Took off thismorning and it was no different to any other morning. Syncros were fine (2nd is a bit tricky until it warms up) didnt grab 2 gears at once, just drove like it would on any other morning. got me buggered?

:cool: I think I might spray mine black...havent decided yet. Theyre disposable items these days anyway. See how it goes...

well that sucks. QLD transport sends the renewal notice like MONTHS in advance!! I still only renewed it with like 3 days to spare :cool:

I dunno. I like the blue...just don't tell anyone its off a festiva. Make up a fancy name for it and say its a custom colour.....

sorry I didnt mean to say the T50 is a crappy gearbox. I meant MY crappy gearbox. I was just wondering if other T50 drivers have experienced the same problem (although I'm probably the only one who has stopped from high speed without downshifting :cool: ) I must admit its put up with alot of shit from me...I accually kinda suprised its lasted as long as it has. Wooo!! gearbox party!!!

I doubt it was ever rebuilt. Clutch is disengaging properly. Doesnt try to roll anywhere when its idling in gear with the clutch in (and its a very easy car to move). Its probably just tired like you said. Its done this about 3 times in 5th now but today was the first time it jammed in 4th!! None of the syncros worked for about 500m and I was having to either double clutch or shift clutchless (hehe I drive a dogbox truck at work so Ive got some experience) It not going into reverse too was rather odd....its never had any issues with reverse before. Ugh...I don't wanna change gearboxs...anyone wanna buy a shitbox celica?? new car time...

Ive found (with my gearbox at least) that if I stop from ~100kmph in 4th or 5th (usually 5th) and just clutch in and stop (if the phones ringing I don't bother down shifting, its faster just to stop), the selector forks jam in gear and I can't change gears until I'm doing ~40kmph. Now as you can imagine taking off in 5th is a real bastard and hard on the clutch. I'm not sure if this is just my gearbox being crap, or its a design flaw in the early T50s. It happened again today, and Id say my box is pretty well rooted this time. 2nd gear syncro works for up shifts but not down shifts now. 5th gear syncro has a metalic grinding noise (def syncro) but still works fine. Reverse likes to select forward and reverse (doing a russel ingall in the chase) and wont release without a little coaxing. Id say its probably gearbox change weekend for me (ahh what a carnt!!). Ive got a spare box but I'm interested to know if anyone with a T50 (particularly early celica boxes) has a similar problem... Heres hoping the gearbox doesnt lockup on the highway doing 100kmph....

Some new Le Mans rules for some classes accually force them to run aircon and keep the temperature in the cabin below a certain temperature. I think its a great idea! These are LMP1/2 rules from what I read. 14.1.9 – Temperature inside the cockpit (closed car) : The ambient temperature around the driver must not be higher than 30°C (86°F) whatever the temperature on the outside when the car is in motion. After a stop, the temperature must go back down to this value in 5 minutes maximum. An efficient air conditioning system comprising a compressor, a condenser, a pressure reducer and an evaporator is compulsory for the closed cars. It must be described on the homologation form and approved by the ACO.

maybe sell your air-air intercooler and use a subaru liberty water-air unit.

you accually have to lean the radiator back towards the engine.

hrmm bugger. Wider radiator?? I don't think I'll ever have any problems (except for driveways and speed bumps) at 150mm but thats more because I'm running really stiff coilovers (I think the spring rates are about 7k with a cm or so of preload). If your suspension is kinda bouncy and has a long travel then you might run into trouble. But really, its no big loss if you completely mangle the cooler core anyway. Theyre like what? $150 these days for a hybrid copy. About $500 for a genuine. Maybe try talking to a bodyshop and seeing if he can make you a custom bumper? Might be too exxy... V-mounts an option, but it means youve gotta change your radiator setup too.

Your not *supposed* to bed in rotors at pads at the same time. Put your new rotors on with your old pads and bed in the rotors, then you can put your new pads in and bed in the pads. You can bed in pads and rotors together but your supposed to take it easy for something like 300km. This all came from an ex-DBA tech.

Id be avoiding drilling larger holes in the block, just because its something you can use over and over again and youre then stuck using a different sized bolt every time. Use it as a last resort method. Like you said, try an easy out, if that doesnt work try welding a bolt onto it. 4A-GE KE20, very cool. I don't think its done as often as you think. You can step up to the KE70 brakes pretty easy from there but its probably not a big enough upgrade to justify it.

damn, and here I was thinking it was some kind of tribute to me :P

indeed you can :P see: http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=3666 Not cheap, but nothing like that ever is...

Standard EFI fuel tanks have a little bowl inside the tank that the pump sits in. Theres some other mechanisims (some plastic thing) to keep the fuel in the bowl under cornering/acceleration. For external setups, you will need a lifter pump, surge tank/swirl pot (a separate tank) and your high pressure fuel pump. What bosch motorsport pump are we talking about? Theres heaps of them. The more common ones are the 040 and 044. The 040 is the intank pump flows about 235lph. The 044 is usually external but I think you can mount it in tank. It flows more than the 040. Both of them are really overkill for most applications.

ARP make 4A-GE flywheel bolts... :P

Like someone else said. Flip the cooler upside down. You might need to take it to an aluminium fabricator to get them to put 90 degree bends on the end tanks. One of the guys at work uses this setup on his turbo gemini and it works well. You also avoid the problem of it hanging too low. Mine sits about 150mm off the ground with my coilovers on and standard rims (should be about 180mm with the 17s on). I'm not real concerned about whacking it on something.

come again?? (in english please :harhar:)

or the eyes...cept I used nulon brake cleaner... pretty much the same shit. Boy does it sting like a mofo!!

buy a kit from another car and modify it. AFAIK no one makes a kit for a corolla of any description. The only car that MIGHT have a kit is the AE86.

do ALL of them at the same time... including the rear flexable line. They generally have a good working life span of ~10 years (for GOOD service) so yours are probably well and truely outside that time frame.