86Ali

OK, so I just assembled my XT130 struts and springs and camber tops, using the XT130 LCA's, and TTT AE86 PS knuckle. Put on my 14" wheels and they don't spin? The caliper is not touching, and can't see anything else fouling? Before installing the hubs spun freely? I think the dust shield is pushed up against the rotor. does the AE86 Knuckle move the strut inwards? I'm thinking I have to remove the dust shield, or grind down the end of the LCA(don't want to do this.....)or get a NRCA? Anyone else come across this?

All good! Glad you saw this before buying one!

Sweet KETO mate!

Updates?

The RX2/3/4 are too big too fit, I tried once. AE71 has both outlets on the driver side, that should work, but the mounts on AE71 are different to KE70, different Rad supports, but the physical size fits. You just need to make some L brackets for the mounts.

There was a break in the wire behind the dash, starter motor spins with key now.

Thanks for the info Banjo! I found it, It was my error. When I fitted the loom in somehow I have accidentally stretched the Black/White ignition wire, up behind the dash/air vent area, to the point where it had actually broken. I just soldiered a piece in and its all good now. No other wires where damaged.

Digging up an old thread. I have a starter motor solenoid power issue. *History is, this is KE70 cabin and engine bay looms installed into an AE71 (old AE71 loom was hacked to buggery so swapped it out) instrument panel and both driver and passenger kick panel circuit boxes where swapped out also, so basically all of it from a KE70, nothing from the AE71 was kept. I have power at the black/white wire on the ignition barrel when key is at start position, but nothing at the starter. Starter fuse in engine bay fuse box is not blown. I removed the instrument panel and traced the black/white from the barrel to behind the dash as far as I could see it, up until the point where it disappears heading to the passenger side. It also has power with key at start position. I then went to the passenger side kick panel and found the black/white wire in the big green plug and tested it, but there is no power to it with key at start position? Somewhere in-between the wire is cut....I really don't want to pull the whole dash out again just to check where the Black/White wire My question is, based of the diagram above can I cut the Black/White wire at the key barrel, solder in a new wire, run that to a relay and then power the starter solenoid that way with out disturbing any thing else. I have a 4AGE with Cop conversion with aftermarket ECU, so the Black/White coil wire is redundant, Does this have the potential to cause issue to any other circuit, or should it be ok? Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks!

KE70 starter motor solenoid power issue. *Note that this is a full front wiring loom from a KE70 freshly installed into an AE71. I also changed out kick panel junction/fuseboxes. I have an issue, the Black/White wire from Ignition has power at key start position, but no power at starter, or even further up, at the fuse box? Nor do I have power at the factory ignition coil Black/White wire (no longer used anymore in my application). I checked the fuses and they are all good? Not entirely sure whats going on. The fusebox has an aftermarket relay installed (Not by me) pictured, is this normal? Also there is a Black/White jump wire that I am not to sure if is factory? (view attached pictures) Any help here would be appreciated!

Thanks! I kinda figured that. I'm pretty sure that the clear/white connector connects to this key barrel (start 12v) terminal through connector pictured below, inturn that runs through to the fuse box big plug pictured below also.

This is the stock KE70 starter motor loom (removed due to 4age conversion and battery relocation to boot). Is the thick Black/White trace wire attached to main battery loom for the 4K starter motor? I don't have battery at moment to test with key and multimeter.

OK, so this will be my info log, as well as my question. So I have searched the internet and looked at all the guides and read all the threads (Toymods, AE86DC and Rolla Club), but don't seem to find any specifics to my case. Long story, my High Roof AE71 Panel Van body harness is stuffed due to part out, (where I bought as rolling shell) aftermarket ECU, Stereo, alarm and keyless entre were removed with little respect for the original harnesses, a rats nest with chops and hacks, not usable. I was given a warning from seller at time of purchase that the engine and body wiring needed to be redone. I found a KE70 High roof wagon and removed engine and body looms thinking that they would be the same. I have swapped out the looms, some of the wiring is the same, but particularly the dash / instrument cluster connector pinouts differ. It is not a straight swap, I have compared the tacho dash wires with the non tacho dash wiring, and reference that against the Toymods write up, some is ok, but some is different. AE71 High Roof Panel Van Tacho Instrument Panel Clear Connector KE70 High Roof Wagon Non Tacho Instrument Panel Clear Connector AE71 High Roof Panel Van Tacho Instrument Panel Blue Connector KE70 High Roof Wagon Non Tacho Instrument Panel Blue Connector AE71 High Roof Panel Van Tacho Instrument Panel Grey Connector KE70 High Roof Wagon Non Tacho Instrument Panel Grey Connector My Plan is to re-pin the KE70 Connectors to macth the AE71 Connectors, firstly making sure the the wires terminate to the same plugs and positions. This I can do, but for now I need to know, for the KE70 Wagon Blue connector, the first pin (from the left) green wire makes its way up and across to the towards the LHS of the dash, does any one know what its purpose is? I downloaded KE70 wiring diagram to check this, but I must be dumb, I can't make heads or tails out of it...

I gave in. I went hydro Howe release bearing set up on a W series with a T50 Adapter in the end. Do it once theme.

Sure I read it on here, I'm on a misssion to find thread now. It was in a build thread. Its what made me start thinking :hmm:

Yeah, that picture is from a 3k-h T50 set up Page 2 of link states "22spline t50 from a carina ta60 with a tailhousing, shifter & forkshafts from a 20 spline ta22 celica t50. Bellh. is from a ke74" Edit My set up is 4A.

Yep, I understand that. I have seen a lever set up, with fork swapped to opposite side. I have JDM T50 Bell with fork on oposite side. Its goin in a Ke70 that currently has a K50 in it. I came across attached on http://www.kp61.net/...read.php?t=7626 This is what I'm looking for, The article pretty much covers it, just I'm sure I came across this in a thread on here stating K50 to T50 kit..... I don't have a K40 fork, am curious if K50 parts can be used.

Kick Ass!

Hi all! I'm sure I was on here the other night reading a build thread where someone made mention of a K50 to T50 clutch cable conversion kit a member had put together and was able to be purchased from? Can anyone help out with a contact user name or number please? Or am I tripping? I've been on here and google search for the last hour and more, I can't find the thread. Please don't answer with "hydro conversion set up" responses. Thanks, Ali

Amazing!

Its off a Mk1 VW Golf - 2 piece

I've done a Ke70 slant. Swapped to flat front guards, bonnet, apron and cowl panel. Then made template off quad buckets, position and mark out holes on slant front rad support, and drilled it. I did not notch out the stock flat front apron, instead I positioned the buckets higher. This was end result

The KE/AE Panelvan diffs will directly bolt in. They are S series, Not BW, so tailshaft has to be changed to either ADM AE86, or the 1 piece that comes with Pano stock. RN and LN 25 Hilux (if you can find one) also mate up, but bottom mount plates need to be modified, or new ones fabricated for larger U bolts. These diffs are highly sort after and are getting extremely rare and expensive because of this reason and they can take high amounts of horsepower/torque and stand up to the task (and the fact they fit most early Rotary's)

I take it they're Xt130 Corona? I'm running Xt130 strut based coilovers with modified caliper bracket to take bigger MA61 vented hubs and brakes. I am keen to hear reports.

What is your brake combo?

Did you need the brake bias adjuster for the rear?