altezzaclub

T50 short-shift kits exist, there's one on mine, but I don't know who made it as it was on there when I fitted the gearbox. I don't notice it anymore, except for the 'Need for Speed' click-chick sound like a pump-action shotgun.

Well, its good that the advance is much better, but 110psi is pretty bad for an engine. The usual story is to pour a teaspoon of engine oil down a spark plug hole and redo the compression test a couple of minutes later. The theory is that the oil sits on the rings and helps seal them to the bore, so any increase in compression is the result of worn rings being sealed. If it doesn't hit over 150psi (and I reckon that's unlikely!) then the leakage is through the valves being burnt. Ring job, expensive and complicated.. Valve job, simpler and much cheaper. The tricky bit is the amount of oil to put in... enough to flow across the piston (so do it on a warm engine) and get onto the rings, but too much will occupy combustion volume and put the compression readings up anyway. I've never done it, I usually take the head off and grind the valves, and at the same time I can see the lip on the bore and feel the slop in the pistons from worn rings. Do the valve clearances before you ever take a head off, the gaps can wear away until the pushrod starts to hold the valve off the seat and you lose compression. That's the only problem with the inlets, but hot combustion gases going out a tiny gap past an exhaust valve burns the valve and seat away quickly. Certainly 180psi will give you a much more powerful motor than 110psi! The fuel economy should improve now, 52deg is going to help that, 7.0 to 7.5L/100km would be good, and under 7 on a trip. The solution to the plug colour may appear later, its a puzzle..

Yes, that's a much better advance curve, you should have the whole 36deg on by 3500rpm. The K motors will take more advance than that, its just a matter of what fuel you can buy and how much advance you can give it before it starts to lose power or knock. The plug colours are interesting, I don't know why they are in piston pairs like that. I wonder if 2 and 3 have an inlet air leak around the exhaust port in the middle and are running lean? Check the bolt tightness along the manifolds just in case. Is there one of those air pump/pollution lines run into the inlet manifold in the middle? Otherwise it is a richness problem with 1 and 4, even harder to explain! maybe a misfire on 1 and 4 is making them black.

In that case, check the dizzy and timing. The dizzy pin in the center should wind back a little and spring forward again if you turn the rotor, that's the springs under the base plate controlling the advance. You could take the base plate out, its only two screws, and examine the weights and springs underneath. They are what advances the ignition as you accelerate. If the pin moves sideways, yes its a very worn bush at the bottom of the dizzy, and that can change the points gap and timing all the time. You may find the new dizzy has a terrible advance curve due to the springs they use, as per a recent post on here in the last week or two. The electronic dizzys are for a fork-hoist or a van, so make the car very slow. Coil is another suspect, they can idle OK but break down when under pressure as you accelerate causing a misfire. Its not pinkng is it, that light detonation under acceleration that is caused by too much advance and each misfire causes a knocking sound? I haven't heard it in decades now every car is computer controlled. Try higher octane petrol once your tank is nearly empty, maybe 97octane Premium won't do it. Do you have a timing light, a very handy tool that is worth buying for all the vehicles you will own?

'maybe it would of been better to purchase the hurricane or wildcat brand for ease of fitment. ' Nope, they're just the same.. grind a couple of corners so they fit past the inlet manifold OK, grind a weld back here and there, and cut spring washers in half and glue the halves onto one manifold to make it level with the other... ..and don't use the double manifold gaskets they sell, get a one-piece. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Can you fit your old dizzy, your old fuel pump and your old carb?? Not all at once, one at a time and see if one of them fixes it. Otherwise, could be fuel starvation, or timing, it really depends on when it jerks. On over-run?? On acceleration? Going up a hill? On a tiny amount of throttle?? Does it idle smoothly?

Take a look through here, I fitted an electronic dizzy and found the advance curve to be very late. In the end I used springs I found around the house to make it work. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/4/ https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/#comment-511594

What else happens?? Do you pump the throttle to make it richer when cranking hot? Does it idle fine hot or cold? Can you smell raw petrol at any time?? Its an auto choke isn't it? Parrot's idea seems pretty good to me, otherwise the only thing I can think of would be fuel. Throw it overboard and fit a 4AGE!

I'm sure they pick on another KE70 earlier up the page. From a website examining the depth of America's military prowess in Iraq. https://simplicius76.substack.com/p/the-iraq-war-was-a-sham

Well, another trip to Adelaide over Christmas, this time I was under pressure to do the 1200km in 12hrs before the reception desk closed at 5pm. That went well, although not the 7.0L/100 I was hoping for... Then i got keen over quietening it down even more and bought some foam/foil insulation off Ebay. First was making a few short videos as I drove to the workshop and back each day, now I just need a video editor for dummies so I can measure some noise volume. I started on the parcel shelf, straight over the fibre-board Toyota fitted in the factory, and I'll put a coloured cloth over it when I can convince the wife to sew it. Next was some melamine on 3mm MDF for the firewall area, but fitted much more carefully to make sure there aren't any holes or gaps. I didn't think of photos until 10min ago, and I'm not taking that seat back out again.. The base foam goes straight on the floor, which is where I'm up to. It covers the guard curves under the seat wings too. So, I'll fit the seat base, run a few videos on the way to work on Monday and see if I can measure a difference in noise.

Its toast! Just not as warm... Power arrives at the panel, and I assume you tested an earth leading away, and you can't get a reading through the panel itself. If the earth wire goes to the chassis with less than 5ohms, the problem is in the panel, and most likely there is a break or corrosion in the wire somewhere along the way. I don't know what resistance it should show, but 10ohms would be enough to defrost a window.

"The car already is a bare shell with literally nothing on it, and it's about to be 100% rust free once the repairs are done. I'm having a 4AGE and a T50 being built+remachined/reconditioned in California. As for the rest of the work, such as the T series diff conversion, AE86 front suspension, etc, is all gonna be done by a shop that has a fabricator on hand for anything I need. Basically all I've been trying to find through these forums are the parts and conversion that I need to buy/get started on so that the shop can install them once my motor is finished and the rebuilding process begins. I'm hoping it's gonna be pretty quick since the car is just a shell with no paint, no interior, no suspension, etc. " Excellent! By far the best way to tackle a project like this! Strip to a shell, rebuild shell, undercoat, fit engine/diff/suspension, strip them out, paint it all then re-fit mechanicals and wire it up. It will be great to see some photos as it progresses. Spreadsheet- The clutch master cyl can come out of a whole range of Toyotas, but the pedal box would be nice if it was stock. If you get stuck you will fine the clutch part is usually just grafted onto the auto pedal box, so probably not hard to stick a clutch pedal off another Toyota onto a KE20 frame. KE70 crossmember will be wider I expect. We had 4K motors fitted here and while the AE86/KE70 crossmembers are the same, the mounts won't take both motors. I have a Haltech Sprint 500 sitting on my desk to run my 4AGE when I have time to fit it. It came out of a race car so it does everything the 4AGE needs, but there will be extras you may or may not need with the flasher Haltechs.. I don't know if you'll find anything interesting in here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/12068-ke70ae71te72ae86-similarities-differences/page/2/#comments

Nice! I remember some of those photos of the previous build, should be great when you've got it on the road.

Excellent! Well, there ya go, now you're educated and experienced and it didn't cost too much!

The AE86 center should fit, but get the axle first and see how it fits under the car. It should be noticeably wider. Changing the front struts would be ideal, Celica or Corona 50mm ones, giving bigger brakes as standard. That introduces all the problems of ride height, LCA length & camber, steering arm fitting and the big one I forgot yesterday, are you going to use a rack or a steering box?? That decision changes how the 4AGE fits in, and then you realise why people convert to a rack on the AE71 cross-member that is made for the 4AGE. Otherwise the gearbox bellhousing won't fit very well. Hopefully things like sway bars are a minor issue. The bars to hold that axle in place will be a lot more complex, but just start off with a leaf spring setup and see how it suits you. This guy was running 180KW through leafs on a Skyline diff- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/22610-my-2tgte-ke20/#comments Where's the KE20 fuel tank?? In the boot under the parcel shelf? Have you worked out where you're putting the surge tank and fuel pump? I'm a great believer in a small surge tank, mine is maybe 300ml so takes up no room under the 4AGE intake system and I've never had a problem with it. A big alloy radiator and an electric fan on the list? These days I'd cheat and strip the KE20, put it on a rotisserie and start from there... Is a 12month fully restored and modified 4AGE/KE20 project a problem? Cruising through the web, this is an interesting problem- "I've got a late model AE86 T series Kouki, disc brake rear end that I'm trying to fit into my Ke25, and my engineer is tell me that it can't be done. He said the only way to bring it back to ke20 1320mm width would be shorten one side about 60mm (i.e. left side as diff centre is already 20mm off centre to the right.) which will bring diff centre 40mm to left. My issue with this is that I think I'll have drive shaft clearance issues?" https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72644-ke20-diff-to-ae86-conversion/ ..read it carefully, it explains the offset driveshaft in the Skyline Borgy in the 2TGTE link at the top & how difficult it is to shorten axles. Do you have a good engineer looking over it for certification? That's the biggest part of a project these days. Well, I can see you have weeks or reading, there is so much on the net about doing this project. https://www.toycrazy.net/tech/ke2strutupgrade.htm

" sounds easy when you say it fast. lots of work. " Absolutely! So the easiest is to find a T-series diff from a leaf rear end & fit it. That's Corona and vans and Celica. They'll be wider so expect to move the mounts in, and drums only. If it hops around you can add a panhard and lower anti-tramp arms to help it. That's half a 5-link you've fitted. Next is an AE86 or T-series liftback or any imported Corolla that had a banjo-style Japanese diff, not the Borg-Warner. They will have coils & 5-link arms, so as Dave said, start chopping the floor and welding on mounts. I've never done it, there will some tricky questions to solve. Keep the diff as light as possible, no ute diffs, as the car is already so light it won't like another 80 to 100kg bouncing around under the tail. The 4AGE doesn't have enough torque to blow anything up unless you're particularly mechanically insensitive. We put OS Giken limited slips into the T-series diffs for the rally cars, they are high quality and seem to last. There's a list of all the Toyota diff part-numbers, their size and what car they fitted floating around the web. That's pretty handy. I kept some of it here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/5/#comments This is big project, I hope you've got some prior experience doing this sort of conversion, or a lot of patience! Make sure you have a point fixed where you bail out of it- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/ That's as important as the finely detailed list you must have before you buy anything at all, every job broken down into exactly what happens and where it fits in with all the other jobs. Project management makes or breaks these adventures.

The Girls KE70 4AGE apparently came out of a race car 'with the biggest cams before you have to change valve springs'. What this means is although it runs on a stock ECU, intake and exhaust, the idle and the slight throttle response are erratic. It idles nicely at 1000rpm when semi-warm, climbs to an unsteady 1600 when warmed up and may quickly drop in steps to zero & stall. Both coming off the last touch of throttle on a slight downhill or just opening it to maintain speed gives a very jerky over-run or pickup. It wants a solid message from the TPS and it wants to be accelerating. While this is great out of town, it rapidly becomes a pain in daily work/shopping & requires constant heel & toe. I put it down to the lack of vacuum signal below 2000rpm from the cams. I now have a Haltech Sprint 500 to fit, and recently realised every bit of wiring I installed 6years ago needs to be removed and a new loom done. That also came out of a race car & needs a different dizzy setup, a different style of injectors and I'm hoping I don't have to transfer the ITBs with their 2-wire TPS as well. So, start with the stock ECU to see, but be prepared to ditch it and rewire it again for a simple Haltech. The motor uses the T50 gearbox, but if you're flush and want more work, a J160 Altezza box can be adapted to fit. A new driveshaft for sure, and a Japanese banjo diff from a Celica or similar. In the build thread I have how that went into a KE70, but you could use a Corona one as you don't need 5-link mounts. Of course a 5-link or anything to tie those leaf springs down would be better than what you have! A J160 will make you a friend of SamQ, you'll need a gear lever adapter, new mounts, a bell-housing adapter, and a hydraulic clutch for either T50 or J160. A J160 needs the KE70 transmission tunnel to be beaten out slightly, they are much bigger around the bell-housing than a T50. On a K20 it will be similar I hope, you should fit a T50 in as it is, they're not much bigger than a K50. Ah- You will likely need a new hole for the gear lever, just expect that. Start at the end of these and work backwards- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/?gopid=680040#entry680040 PM me with any other questions or stick them up here- Cheers

That looks pretty terrible! OK, the front water holes are not used, we figure Toyota made a cock-up in their circulation design and tried to make the water circulate around the rear cylinders more by closing off the front holes with the head gasket. However the rear holes on your head/block also look crap! So, someone used no coolant for a decade or two, and never changed the oil in the same period! If you're going to use that head, get it professionally cleaned, it needs to come back spotless. If the valves aren't too thin around the edge and the seal on the seat looks OK & not burnt at all, just get the head cleaned and grind the valves in yourself. I use a wide snap-off craft blade (no knife, just the blade) to carefully scrape the old gasket off the head, it doesn't want to be too new of you can dig into the head surface & ruin it. Take it easy & slow. Finish it with a sheet of 320grit wet & dry sandpaper with some WD40 on a flat steel surface. If you don't have a flat steel, get on, you'll need it sooner or later. Even a piece of 150mm wide steel by 10mm thick by about 200 long will do, just make sure there are no edges sticking up. Any steel supplier can sell you something. It does the manifold surfaces and everything. If not, have the workshop that cleans the head skim it lightly. With both heads off put a pair of pistons on TDC in each block and rock then left & right across the block with your thumbs. Pick the block with the least movement, the piston slap. Look for the smaller lip at the top of the bore too, although really the pistons and bore should be measured accurately. Tip both blocks over and take off a main and a big-end bearing, and compare those between motors. Decide which motor has the least wear & damage and use that, probably the one you were using but you never know. If the bearings in the original block don't show signs of wear, just put the two you took out back and hope... If not, pull them all off and lift out the crank. Keep all the bearing shells in order, take lots of photos. Either they are all good enough to use, or some are more worn or damaged by dirt. At that time you need to decide on new bearings, mains and big-ends... which may mean paying for the crank to be ground if they are down to the copper backing, or just get the crank polished and fit new bearings of the same size. Make sure you scrape the water jackets out on the block you are using. If the pistons feel OK, leave them in the block, just sort out the bearings. You could check the cam chain & tensioner for wear and slack, another job worth doing while its apart. Why did the valve hit the piston in the original motor, and how well did it run for the month or three before it died? Just too many revs?? Tappet clearance problem? Where abouts are you in Aussie, someone might be close enough to give you a hand.

Once you have the head off drain the bock as much as you can, all the oil & water. Tip the block over on its side and scrape the dry rust out of the water jackets, mainly around cyls 3 & 4. This is where it builds up & stops water flow, causing overheating on the back cylinders. With the manifolds off put a straightedge along the manifold faces. They must be straight and aligned with each other, and mis-alignment is the cause of many an exhaust gasket failure. There's stuff to look at in here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Cheers

Strip it completely and check the valves and bearings/pistons/bore. If it look OK, send it off to be cleaned and measured, then make a decision from there. It might just need a hone, rings & bearings and a gasket kit to give you another 200,000km, and a hot solvent wash would return it like new. If you don't want to spend that much and it looks half worn, I've put bearings back in a motor before and its ran fine, and the ultimate was building an Evo3 motor a few years back from 3 old motors and using pistons where the rings were seized solid with filth, going onto another set of conrods and being put in a third block... That motor did a year of rallies under a giant turbo without a problem. So strip it and clean it yourself, check it out and make a decision. The next motor you buy will probably be in similar shape, they're all getting old. The pulley is marked like this- I've forgotten what the other two marks mean, haven't had a 4K for a while now.

Cheers!

Auto or manual?? If manual, push start to see that everything except the starter is working. It would be easy for them to knock a wire in the engine bay and break a bad connection that was just about to break anyway. Either way, chase the wire to the solenoid with a multmeter as Banjo said, see if power gets to there. If it does, solenoid is crook. If the solenoid goes "Click" when you hit 'start' but no starter motor, starter is crook. If the power doesn't get to the solenoid, chase it back to the key wires as the key 'start terminal' inside the ignition block might be crook. If there is power coming out of the key start wire but not getting to the solenoid, check the relay in the middle. Banjo put a KE30 wiring diagram up on here a decade back, but he's so old now he forgot! It would pay to PM him and get a good copy as they're hard to read. Let us know how you go, its always interesting to see what goes wrong.

After that couple of thousand Km with an exhaust that needed earplugs I bought a Redback three-chamber muffler from our local guy for $100. They're a great design, I'd bought one for the car a decade back but ended up putting it all on the gold car when I fitted the 4AGE & sold the gold car with it. Josh & I put the car on the hoist and cut out the wiggly bit I'd had to stick in for the Maxima catalytic converter and made a cone to 2" pipe instead of Nissan's blank wall. The cat was 3" inside and had a flat wall with a 2" hole in it! It didn't help that the only suitable bend I found in the Woolshed was 1&3/4"... With all the pipe now 2" we replaced the angled straight-through muffler with the 3-chamber and put the same tip on it had. What a difference! Growly under power but lift off and cruise at 100kph and its quiet! I reckon it breathes better too, the new muffler is a 2&1/4", but maybe that's just the noise.... I should have done it years ago!

Probably Ne, a pulse generator from the crank position sensor in the dizzy. Why not use the coil negative, the same as on a carb engine? I'm using that on the 4AGE.