altezzaclub

Thanks Jake- do you want to start a new goup-buy thread for them?? Everyone in the club needs them, and I'll need more in a year or 18months.

If you block the overflows it will push more through the jets I'm pretty sure! You can buy adjustable fuel pressure regulators for about $50, which is what I use on the SUs. Mine set at about 1psi, 5 is the max I think. They might help a bit. Overall I think its a carb design fault you have, and mayby a carb facing at 90deg would help. Webers DCOEs starve going around left-hand corners, and flood a little going around right-handders, or vice versa.. but anyway, its a common problem of g-forces not being vertical. If you turn the carb 180deg it will flood going downhill, that's probably better, but it might starve going uphill then. EFi it!! :laff:

The rotor looks like this on mine. I marked the flywheel out to 50deg when I was doing the advance curve, so it has a lot of white paint on, but it is sitting on 8deg BTDC in the photo, that's what the yellow lines show. Number one firing means rotor points to the engine block, and is swinging clockwise towards number 3.

I bought half a dozen (90915 YZZD2) 90915-10003 so they must be the option. Maybe we can start a Group-buy from a mechanic/sales rep on here. Edit- (The YZZD2 is for the Altezza/Celica, I grabbed from the wrong pile in the garage!)

Good question Rian.. I wouldn't have a clue! I suppose the rim is a two-piece or a 3piece that bolts the tyre center on. You don't need to seal them for air loss!

If you mean the Toyota filters, they are straight from a Toyota dealer or any helpful member of Rollaclub who works at Toyota... i bought half a dozen from one of our members after the oil filter on the car (covered in Japanese writing) let the filter drain each night. That marked the bearings as it filled up every morning with no oil pressure and eventually I replaced the bearings.

They usually do have a blown-up view, they are selling their invesment service of course. However, when it comes to economic philosophy they are outright Libertarians and use the figures to expose some nasty trends that main-stream media ignores. It appears Govts are not paying down the debt that caused the depression across the world, they are just continuing to borrow & kick the can down to road while they hope it won't blow up when they're in power. I'd say the best we can hope for it to have a resonably level standard of living for a generation, so there won't be the massive steps ahead my generation has seen. Although Aussie looks like escaping the worst of it, Canberra's debt has doubled since 2009 & Victoria's has gone from $3billion to $15Billion. That's a lot higher than wages have gone up!

They had an Audi runnng around on a demo set a couple of years ago. Looks like they are up to manufacturing now. The grip is fantasic apparently, as there is zero sidewall flex. http://wfxd.com/featured/12488/new-see-through-michelin-tire-with-no-value-stems-and-no-air/

This might help you- http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html I wouldn't use aftermarket filters on anything I value, so the Altezza and KE70 get Toyota only, and the Pintara gets a toilet roll in a baked bean can!

In case you hadn't realised that Govts are more addicted to debt that addicts to heroin, this is from my 'Money Morning' newsletter this morning. Obvously tightening our belts, spending less and paying off debt is for fools in the private sector, not Govts.

Nah- You will blow it sooner or later, welding it up puts tremendous stress on axles & drivetrain as one side fights against the other. Ruins the handling and the tyres too. An LSD is the only way to go, and if you do get the turbo on then something beefy like a Skyline diff would be best.

lol! Nice one bAKER ! Don't expect change from $10,000 Brendo! Sure, everyonew ill tell you they did it for less, but they're the same people posting up "wiring help needed" and "4AGE misfire" topics. The cheap 4AGE you buy will likely need a $3000 rebuild before you start! It will always take more than you expect to get it neat, tidy, looking good and fully reliable. There are always half-done projects for sale if you want to tackle one of those, you then have the advantage of someone else losing some of the money..

I've only done it to my Datsun, and it did need some trimming. Looks good in the end though. The edges were mainly clamped by the door trim, the seats I cut 10mmx10mm holes through for the mount bolts, and I put the odd cup-washer screw in to hold a curve. Take a whole lot of photos and show us how you do it!

Yes, but it doesn't cause it to run at 80deg BTDC! The condensor could load the points like that, so replace both. It would cause a very weak spark, but shouldn't affect the timing. Just start from the beginning & go over all of it. Cam timing, compression, tappet gap, points gap, direction of rotation, plug lead order then ignition timing... Check all the basic stuff and make sure its all sweet then hunt leaks and carb problems. Cam timing is pretty suspicious if the cover is cleaned up. Did they take a hot cam out of there and put a stock one back in one tooth out? You should be able to measure the degrees BTDC or ATDC when a valve opens and get the cam timing. Anyway, check it all first.

Hunt through altezzaclub.org.nz & see. The PowerFC was one that guys were using.

Far enough then- I assume its smaller, as the J160 needs tunnel cutting it seems. They have great ratios, closest I've found on stock road cars.

Don't want the 6-speed that fits the Altezza 3SGE?? The w58 is overkill isn't it, unless you're looking at Supra grunt. I'd get it up and running before worrying about the diff, you might find your stock one will be good for years. It really depends on how you drive.

haha! THAT sounds like a story Evan!

jordain that is going to be a monster! ..and that is painful but quite accurate I'd expect. Not many people think a full conversion to 4AGE or 3SGE will cost more than $3000-4000.

nah- get a KE70 or a TE70 or an AE71.. they got away from leaf springs by then and because they are newer (up to 1985) there are stil quite a few being sold... No matter what, be prepared to travel as its hard to find any RWD Corollas in a hurry these days, and most that aren't well inland are rusted. Some of the guys on here have been looking for 6months, and I saw a lovely one advertised at a dealer in Queensland for $3500!!

this is still a big factor too!! :laff:

Sounds like the dizzy is wrong somewhere... wrong mark as you say would be likely, pull it out and start again. Has the cam been out?? or just the head off? Cam timing would be a possibility, or an inlet manifold leak.

What was it running like when you test-drove it?? Did the guy selling it mention a problem? Does it run like that cold and hot, or does it change. What else has been done to the motor? Extractors? Cam grind? What have you done to it since you bought it apart from what you mentioned? It does sound like the timing is wrong, but it could be the carb just as easily if it is very lean.

well.. four 30mm venturis opening at once into an engine that usually has one 27mm or so... It will drown! I expect you would have to choke it down and re-jet it, and it would be a lot better... it would need a head porting job, upping the compression and certainly a hot cam to match those carbs and get some great gains. Give it a try, you should see it improve the moment you fit them, and we would love to know just how much the 4K is held back by the carb.

...and get the engine number. I've never been involved with it, but reading on here the inlet faces the wrong way (to the rear of RWD engine bay) so has to be turned around, and the rear dizzy hits the firewall. So cut firewall, move dizzy, or go distributorless. LIke the 3SGE, if I was going to do it I would buy a half-cut to get everything from the original car. There are too many sensors and auxilary systems to just buy a bare motor.