love ke70

just learn to drive the car you have, a car that comes on boost at 4000rpm and makes power out to 9, and makes 250-300kw at the tyres will be drivable with good tyres and skill.

that would come up a little once you get bearings around the crank, as it was moving around a little without them. 3mm off the deck height wouldnt hurt. plenty of people when they fit oversize pistons to 308s and stuff then deck the block to get them flush again. if you wanted to get really tricky you can get offset gudgeon pin bushes to move it up a bit more...or so ive been told something along those lines...

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=15799 and these rods and pistons are 9 second and 10,000rpm proven :D

felix have you seen my pics of 1g pistons and rods in the 4k? came very close to being right, and was only a rough up, i think it would give compression very close to stock

early model has the square ones that are recessed sorta thing, later model and ae71 has the flat slanted ones. changes 83 ish

wow thats gonna suck if you don't fix it :jamie: you got a replacement yet? give it a go on the weekend, if you get stuck take photos and ask questions, we are helpful like that :D

250-300 isnt very nice to drive on a 4a though, thats the only reason why I'm sticking with the bigger motor, but you seriously don't need that much power to have a very quick, 200-230 is pretty easy on a 4a and nice to drive.

drive one. even the ge is good, the gze wont leave much to be desired, theyre pretty punchy and will be alot easier in the long run.

ahhh, yeah that sucks. your not the only one thats done that. trying to get hose off or on? if off, in future cut the bastard and get a new one, they never wanna pull, even if theyve only been on for 10 minutes. if you don't want the heater you could just hook the two lines together, illegal and you'll get cold feet with the upcoming cold weather. to do it, i think the dash can stay in, its just a little fiddly :)

the dash is the least of your worries and its only nuts and bolts. just jump in and do it. why do you want to remove it anyway? need to replace it or fully sick weight reduction?

i was driving my 1ggte ke70 at 17, but i had a lot of learner time and drove a stocker for nearly a year before driving the 1g. was making over 150 at the treads. i had some scary moments, and some fun moments. mine was already converted and blue plated, but not registered, and still cost about 10K to get on the road. the costs just add up and are ridiculous... i wouldnt go bigger than the 1g, I'm rebuilding my entire car and going silly with it, and we have discussed handling, and are pretty sure we can get it to handle, but its gonna take some work. i would highly recommned driving a stocko for a year to learn how a car handles, they can still get away from you in the wet and on gravel, and its good fun to learn.

id sell that motor and get a lower comp one mate. your not gonna unlock all that much more power from that motor with 6psi, theres gonna so much fuel (less power) and so much timing pulled out of it (less power) i wouldnt think it would be worth the cost. especially if its a sort after motor, make some money on it and buy a better suited donk. my diesel ran 22:1 compression and then i added 13 psi, but thats a different ball game :P

that is high comp it all comes down to dynamic compression though. which depends on cams and overlap etc etc. plenty of high comp bike motors getting around with turbos sticking out the side :P what sort of power are they expecting with the turbo on it?

thats right, its just a 70 at the end of the day. have fun with it :P i never bought any metal for mine, old computer cases, just any shit i could find did the job. from 1-2.5 mm depending on where it was.

love it :P

i don't hate your car. i quite like the colour. they are all just jealous coz they have faded factory paint :P and hell, ill say it, and I'm an oldschool fan, the wheels look decent, and suit the look of the car, ie blingin what chrome did you use over the gaurds? just stick on? cheers, andy

no you didnt, he wasnt trying :P

heh, the paint stopped it standing out :P i need a colour for my 70 too. so all suggestions will be watched, and the best one stolen :hmm:

cut it all out, then coat bare metal with a protective agent to stop it misbehaving in future. whether it be something like de-ox-it which adds a zinc-y kind of stuff and stops shit rusting, or something like penetrol thats a air tight seal, you choose, plenty of people with opinions to tell you what to use... consider galvanising entire car once complete if you want, its not all that expensive...but i reckon itd still f@$kin rust. damn corollas. plates should be around the same thickness as what you cut out. and as i said, as close as possible to the correct shape. if you can weld, go for gold man :P i couldnt weld and mine came up alright in the end. check out these galleries if you ever need inspiration. don't mind the final colour :$ haha you will note the old man in the photos, always ready to lend a hand http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c292/arowland2/rust/ http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c292/aro...rogress%20pics/ http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c292/aro...rust%20repairs/

I'm a chippie. i walked out of school with an OP2 and into an engineering degree. dropped out of that after 9 days, and spent a year just doing what i wanted. walking into jobs easy coz of my results, and leaving when i got bored. it seriously does help you to have good year 12 grades as you have something to show for yourself. think about it, if 5 17/18 year olds apply for a job, 3 have finished school, 2 havnt and they only need 1 person, to create a shortlist, what are they gonna do? they'll axe the giveruperers, the ones that dropped out of school, as they obviously have poor work ethic. whether thats the truth or not, to a prospective employer, it only looks bad.

and some pictures :lol: are you the real witzl or an imposter?

thats only baby rust go buy a mig and have some fun learning. nothing you can't cut out and start again. if you had seen what my first car started and finished as...you would be amazed what you can learn. just get the metal as close the right shape, the less bog the better. especially that section, my bog cracked just below that vent on both sides in my first 70, whether it was flex from corners, or movement from subs i don't know, but try keep it thin

responsive too, sounds like a nice setup. I'm all into response and turbo noise since listening to my turbo diesel with no exhaust for months, gotta love the whistle, and nothing does it better than a diesel. petrols always sound like theyre trying too hard to sound brilliant. much prefer the isf over the e30 there though...

its a reaming tool...

if your 1mm off centre, you will be f@$ked. i would not suggest this....