B.L.Z.BUB

Quite like it. Picked up another boot lid today as well so I can take the other one off and finish it properly.

Pretty happy with how it looks.

Got an N15 pulsar roof lip. Test fit: Got one of the boys to paint it at work. Waiting for the missus to get home to mount it.

Vacuum leak.

Installed my camber arms. Tucked the wheels a small amount to stop and rubbing on the rear and to keep mr plod happy. Not a huge amount Managed to pop my passenger side sway bar link ball joint out so that's flapping in the breeze making some horrible noises. Ordered some v35 ones off ebay which should work by the looks. Also need a wheel alignment pretty bad after the camber, it toed the rear in a lot more than I expected and it's a bit hairy. Lucky it's only a 2 minute drive to work.

Unless it's a wagon you can't legally do a 1jz turbo, unless your pockets are lined with gold.

Got some new guards that have been properly rolled to replace my shit attempt. Front bar mounted properly and the holes meshed.

Try this. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0

Can't take credit for it, but it is a good idea. To be honest I didn't even know that button was there

Or get a Dropbox account, you can get a free one that'd have enough storage for diagrams, then share a public link.

Got some camber arms on the way to tuck the wheels a bit, and buying new front guards to replace my shitty roll job ones. Scored a series 1 non-airbag wheel, the outside was a bit poo so I bought a sew on cover. Turned out OK, might buy another one and give it a better go. Front bar looks way better, needs some mesh and want to get a SMIC shroud.

Went and bought a s2 bumper, painted it and all the paint blistered and looked shit. But it threw it on anyway. Was pretty rough, broken indicator. Threw the 400R bar up for sale and got offered swaps for another s2 bar in pretty good condition in white with a lip. Everything came up Milhouse. Just zip tied on for now so nothing lines up right. Will mount properly tomorrow.

I like to think people have the ability to use google and work stuff out for themselves, but here: http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/10-guide-start-relay-mod/

Could it be the starter motor relay ground wearing out? Do the starter relay mod? Might be worth a go as it's cheaper than a new starter.

Good info here: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/22625-HOW-TO-4AGE-into-ADM-AE86-AE71-Wiring-guide

Ok I thought this loom was a ke/4age hybrid loom. That plug would be the original cars dash/ignition supply. All of those wires on that plug should match the ke70 wires around the dash/ignition area, from memory I'm pretty sure they all matched. Obviously the ke won't have the CEL and one will probably be for the speed sensor which would have been in the original car dash. Edit: CEL and speed sensor were probably in the separate loom part that youre missing. I'm guessing that that part of the loom isn't part of the main engine loom. Probably wired into the body loOM.

This should help. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/39148-alot-of-4age-wiring-questions/

Is it weird that I really wish I was there to sort this out in person? I want to build another 4AGE KE just to do the wiring. Also, is it AFM or MAP?

My guesses: That plug is just the standard KE70 plug that is up behind the dash feeding the relay box IGN and ACC to switch your relays in the main fuse box (EFI, COIL etc) plus the starter motor and shit. Youre missing the (14 pin) plug to supply power to the ECU, which carries the constant 12v for the ECU memory and switch 12v, plus also the CEL, speed sensor, and other unnecessary shit. Also that is a bigport ECU, smallports had grey plugs. There must be somewhere on the loom to hook up those pins in the 14 pin plug as the B1+ and B+ supply power to the COR for the fuel pump. Unless they have been bypassed. I wouldnt see why you couldnt do that but you'd still need constant power to W and B, although the car should run with a constant supply to W and nothing else. You just wouldnt retain the memory of what the ECU learns if B isnt hooked up.

I'm lost, so this plug is part of your 4AGE loom or this is the original KE70 plug? Also the check engine light needs a constant switched 12v source and the ECU grounds the circuit to activate it. Also, got a picture of the ECU? And you have found these wiring diagrams? http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/A_Series/Wiring_Diagrams

Awesome build. Look forward to updates. Why the move from 3tcgarage?

Pity I deleted all my build threads. Especially my 4agze into ke70 thread. I documented it pretty well.

So it turns out R33's are super easy to break in to. The passenger door lock toggle on the drivers side will work all the time so its just a matter of snaking something past the window and pressing it. There is a 12v IGN wire in the control cluster so I threw a relay in so it'll only work when the car is on. You can still lock it when the car is off.

Awesome work. Good to see welds and not bog.