jono1986

Thanks for the replies, have seen a youtube video of a guy using the compressed air trick. Might try that tomorrow and run it for a while, hopefully it's only the stem seals that need doing and not the guides. The gregory's manual doesn't say much about all fancy equipment, just says to break off the upper half of the valve guide using a soft drift, then remove the guide through the combustion side of the head using an extractor. Still have to use a reamer but no heavy machinery.

Hey guys, got my head rebuilt about 10 months ago and ever since it's been blowing smoke on start up and now it's doing it all the time at idle. I'm thinking of doing the valve stem seals and also the valve guides, my question is can you do valve guides in the "backyard" sort of thing? I have a bit of mechanical experience but need to make sure that I get the right tools and also if the guides even need doing. Cheers in advance. Oh, the rest of the engine has been fully rebuilt from the rear crank seal to the seals in the carby so just in case anyone questions that part.

Was the mount to the body in the same place?

If he's close by use some vernier calipers on them and see.

Pretty nice for 150, I got 4 (with tyres) for $400...made the car look so much better

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=286265 http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=23

Ah ok, was no vehicle identification so I just went off the 3k 4spd one.

The little clip on the end of the cable comes off dude, that's the problem. You've done the little spring clip but you have to remove the metal part that hooks over the clutch fork. It's not a force job it just pops off.

Yeah man was probably me, not many 35's with dragways driving around adelaide. Thinking of doing the Valve Stem seals (burning way too much oil) tomorrow and the points gap aswell.

I don't think a random wire would cause air to come through the carburettor.....especially since he said he's done the timing........................

Probably worth it to pull the cam cover off and check man, cause if you have fuel and spark there aint much that's going to stop it from going.

Did you align the markings (the two dots) opposite of each other..... the red dots indicate where the marks are on the crank and camshaft

Next time send a private message instead of cluttering up someone elses thread.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/45319-4k-egr-vac-lines/page__p__471899__hl__vacuum__fromsearch__1#entry471899 about half way down is a picture.........

Yeah I drove mine for ages, it can wear things out though so I think a month sounds about right.....You can get that part brand new I'm pretty sure.

Yeah it's your steering arm man, same problem with my 35 and after replacing it all fixed......I did do all the bushes at the same time but the mechanic said the arm was the problem.

He's done the timing mate, thus the further questioning of what's happening. When it comes to how you've hooked up the carby, use the search function as it's come up atleast 1 million times in the past.

Have another update (not for the dash conversion), got a wheel alignment done about 3 months after I put new springs in. Was still getting like a burring sound from the front right wheel, took the bearing cover off and the grease was dark grey with metal flakes (which I think isn't a good thing :hmm: :hmm: ). New bearings and grease and it drives awesome now, finally happy with my front end after about 10 months. Will hopefully have a full time job by next week so should have some actual good updates for the beast.

I was thinking about this last night and didn't know how to answer, if you were able to do the timing it means you have spark. You say it's getting fuel to the carby so there are only a a few solutions and they are that the cam is out, the valves could be cracked open a bit and a few other things that i can't really think of.

Yes. Oh wait...I read it wrong....You installed the cable, plugged it all in and the speedo is out by 5-10km/h? The cable is the same, just a bit of flexible stuff that connects the sender gear to the speedo, what it sounds like you need to do is find a different toothed gear to put into your gearbox. I have the same problem so I can't tell you which is the correct gear (amount of teeth on the gear I mean).

Nice Rolla man :y: :y: :y:

Flat screwdriver with a hammer

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/7899-ca18-in-ke55/ You are going to get abused mate........use the search function......

Depends on the age of the car, on mine I ran a new cable from the battery to setup a constant and ignition "busbar". So when ever I have to add to it in the future I just branch off that, when I get some more cash flow I'll be installing something like this... Oh by the way, those fuse adaptors are a good idea on newer cars where the wiring is a little stronger, but not for old cars. Imagine having an original 10amp fuse then adapting another 10amp onto that.....20amps on 3mm or less wire, not such a good idea.

Me? Ok...so I got my head down at Adelaide Cylinder Head, they did a full rebuild and also welded it up and made it "like new" again (cause the heads corrode a fair bit in the water jackets). I installed it on the car and every start up I get a puff of smoke, it's even worse now as it does it as it idles at traffic lights. I was happy with the price that I paid for it, just not that happy that I have to pull the head off again to the the valve stem seals. The original question was about head porting but every little bit of advice helps, everyone that I spoke to said to got to API in Lonsdale and I wish I did now. Is that clearer?

What do you think looks better? Go with that.