jono1986

Yes, although you need to look out for gear stick and mounting positions........and DO NOT forget the spigot bearing, learned from that mistake.

I'm not interstate....hmmmm....

Really what's the weight difference of a 4age/7age to a 3sge (oh and i meant the beams version)

Or if you have that much........3SGE or 3SGTE

The distributor is connected to the cam shaft via a metal shaft so no, unless you have put the battery in backwards and the motor is cranking backwards. Make sure that you have indeed made sure that the timing is correct and you DO have spark. What your describing to us is impossible to fix with out going to a professional carby tuning place or seeing it in person. What condition are the webers? are they both tuned in sync with each other or if it's even tuned at all? are you using an aftermarket fuel pump?

It could also be the valve clearance, not letting the valve fully close.

So you have fuel, spark and obviously air....Do you have compression when you should have compression, did you install the cam properly. One way to check is to take off the cam cover and rotate the engine til the little mark on the main pulley is at the 0 mark on the sprocket cover thingo. Both valves should be closed. Does it fire at all, like are you getting back fire.....Or I just thought of this if you put your hand over the carby and crank (with the coil unplugged so it doesn't blow your hand off) does it blow or suck when cranking.

Yeah like i said, a long shot. Not helpful but it's really something that needs to be looked at in person for me to diagnose.

If you do do that it might be a good idea to erase faults before diagnosing as old faults that have been rectified can still be in the memory. When I wrote that previous post I didn't know it was an EFI motor, you might want to look at the distributor and make sure it's dry, if it's fitted with a airflow meter (not a MAP sensor) it could have water in it. Not sure if the Wrangler has that problem but it's there for you to know :wink: . If it's cranking and not starting I would start to look at sensor's like crank angle or distributor sensor and make sure their operating correctly. This is a very long shot but do you own an oscilliscope? Cause they are a big help when it comes to diagnosing faults with sensors and what not. EDIT: Forgot to mention after you clear all the faults the present faults will automatically pop up after you do the diagnosis check for the second time.

Cars are built for safety now and in excessively large numbers, so there's no soul or passion behind the design. Any new car that has been designed to be like old cars are shit, Holden Monaro nothing like the original and is shit, Holden SV6000 ummm only seen a little bit of it but the original SV5000 is so much better cause it was designed in a time where safety wasn't a priority like all older cars. And cars become great, it takes time to see what the market (i.e. the consumer) does and it goes from there.

I've never had someone say anything bad about my car, or the fact that I own a 30 year old corolla. There will always be shit thrown at you for owning a toyota, but ol school corolla's every one loves seeing them. And my car is no prize piece it needs work but that's always a conversation starter, and I mean I've found that everyone loves the ol 2 door pillarless....come on....you know you love it. Ke70 owners get shit thrown their way more than others cause it's that kinda car, like a skyline, silvia, subaru, VL, 180sx you know what I mean? (hard to type what is easier talked about in person) And this wasn't a stab at e70 drivers either**

Can you start the car by bypassing the starter key by placing a jumper between the main power and start terminal on the starter motor? You said it cranks but does it start? What's the wiring look like on that terminal? Buy a multimeter and check voltages and resistances throughout the starter circuit, then go from there.

I think you can use VN ones or some commodore top thingo's (camber tops i think), someone on here has done it. You have to file down the shock to go through though. Ring the guys at pedders morphetvale even if your interstate and they'll tell you what i'm talking about.

A r31 skyline diff (axle), i think it has to be shortened though.

Time for an update....yay have a job so I can finally get the 35 to a respectable point, should be getting a Electronic Dizzy in the mail tomorrow, some new doors seals later in the week aswell, some new leaf springs (if they're the right ones, fingers crossed) and maybe a 5k motor next week probably should do the shocks aswell now that I think about it. After I've installed the new dizzy I'll hopefully be getting a much cleaner signal for the dash conversion, will post a new video sometime this/next weekend. Have posted this picture in the gallery but this is what I'm aiming for.....(minus the chopped roof)

Choke gets held shut to idle up*, if you disconnect both the throttle and the choke cables what happens? And what's your timing set on?

Cheers for that man definately a good idea, Could you run a supercharged 5k with hydros or not? And nuh it's just a normal 3k head. Halfway through this reply I looked at the 'how to build a tought k motor' and realised that I've put too much thinking into this, so here's a list of what I think I need for the standard charged setup: Cam Carby 3k Head (with porting and stuff done) Actually that's about it, I was thinking of doing everything like oversized pistons, twin sidedraft webers, cam and everything else but after thinking about how much it's gonna cost I'd just do a 3sge beams conversion and get alot more power (and fuel injection). Cheers for the help guys Edit: Keep on reading your reply. It would obviously be a good idea to put a cam in before I chuck the engine in the car, what would be a good choice when it comes to supercharging? Cause I just want a nice power curve nothing in particular. Edit 2: maybe a tighe 112 or 104?

Have you tried turning the idle SPEED screw out a bit?

Supercharging is lingering in my head so what your saying is ticking the boxes :yes:

Hey guys, haven't actually got round to doing this but now that I have a job I'm looking into the future sorta thing. I want to take the head down to API (engine rebuilders) as soon as possible but am thinking of putting a 5k in it soon anyway, is it a good idea to get worked done to my current 3k head (which has had worked done to it before) or would it be better to do the work on a 5k head? I know they are interchangeable but would like some clarification.

What do you need to know, cause there's google or http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/46089-how-to-install-an-electronic-distributor/

Nice work man, am thinking of the same thing, supercharged 5k for my 35. Will be watching this thread.....

I heard a new one the other day that I almost fell for, was looking around for a hole saw and a someone said they only had a half saw....

ummmm run all new wires mate, straight from the battery. Red for positive Black for negative, then any colour from the coil........ Cars cost money man, don't spend any there gonna get f@$ked up and yes i know "you love doing it". Get a better job or more hours so that you can afford to pay someone to do this, or ask someone on here how to do it BEFORE you touch anything. Look for an apprenticeship or something man.

If all your fuses are fine, you haven't shorted anything out. Just go back over all the colours and where they go (using the wiring diagram), and make sure that the illumination wire isn't shorting out on anything either (if you haven't connected it). It's really going over things and eliminating what could be wrong. Make sure that your going to the negative side of the coil and not the positive, like triple check.