jono1986

Why?........ I'm going to enjoy watching this thread.

Why does everyone claim that electrical is so hard, you have a wiring diagram and a loom, done. Carbies are so much harder to get right, and with my experience with carbies there a constant problem whereas EFI is just set and forget.

You can take your distributor into a specialist and they can perform a full diagnosis with a special machine, but last time I went in to get something done to my dizzy they said just to buy a new one. If the flat spot was caused by the timing advance it sounds like the internal weights aren't moving freely. You could run a positive wire straight off your battery to your points, drive it around and see if it's your ignition causing the problem.

Haha....i'm not sure about that, I can't even go around round 'a' bouts with out it scrubbing and it's taking massive chunks out of the tires......So far i can see what 3 people coming along at the moment, which is shit....would like to know when people want to go for a cruise otherwise just you and me man we'll go for the cruise another time aye

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=35904

Did you soak it in petrol and loosen it up a bit? Like you have to push back on it to make more of a 'V'....so hard to explain without pics sorry.

I want to know numbers cause i want to organise times to meet up north and south......I myself am a bit touch and go as my rear right wheel is rubbing big time

Have a small update on the dash conversion, have been able to connect up something that will modify the 4 cylinder signal into a signal that the dash will recognize. Needs work though, some filtering and some work on the dizzy i reckon. Also have found an awesome hall effect sensor that will screw straight onto the gearbox speed sensor thingo. Will update on that soon. Here's a video of the tacho in action (it needs Tweaking like i've said, but as far as i'm concerned i'm as happy as larry that it works): P.S. A unit to modify the signal from a special supplier is $220, whereas this one was around $30.

Hey guys, Have just driven a new route and is a good one. Some nice bends, straights, hairpins, hills and everything. For those who live north we can meet up at the bunnings and can meet up with the people from the south in a car park on blacks road. Let me know if your coming so i can print off enough guides.

Well if it's got hot and stopped working, it's already done the damage, you need to go around the circuit with a mulitmeter to find out where the open circuit is (that's what it would be now). And like people have said, put a relay down the fron of the car if you want to run higher wattage lights.....i'd even chop of the old lights plug and put new ones on cause the old plugs shouldn't be used with the new current flow.

Electronic dizzy or you can get an igniter and use a bigger coil

Hey man, this is an awesome project I am extremely jealous and feeling even more stupid that I got rid of my Pajero......Did you look into the GTO motor before going to the commodore motor? I was thinking of doing that conversion as it would just bolt in, 3.5lt twin turbo 6g74 (I think that's the engine code).

http://www.niceproducts.com.au/index.html According to that website KE30/35/36/38/55/50/70 and AE70/71/80/82 are all interchangable. The switch mechanism I mean.

Hmmmm.....I think I spotted a overrated red ke30 on Chandlers hill road last night

I'm gonna drive a route sometime this week, and will be set in concrete from there.

Were all K series cars fitted with this solenoid?

Do these have a fuel cut-off solenoid? Oh and if someone said your alternator could be better, i'd start with that....start eliminating things that you know that aren't working properly. Just remember it takes "electricity" to start the the car and keep it running, check resistances all over the place aswell i.e. between the battery and the positive side of the coil. Also i think you should post help in your area section if your having trouble recognising parts on the engine. Another 2 cents from Jono.

ah....it's the same as my 35 then....

The 'spring thingy' in the above picture is the contact to the horn, not power....(I know that's what you mean)....Just making sure he doesn't put a 12volt feed and an earth to the horn button.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=44973 ......i think

....ummmm.....you could just.....ummm....Paint them?? Yeah?

Yeah I like the bottom one, makes it look cleaner...

With the tint and blackend rear tail lights it would look insane, it would stand out cause of the colour you've chosen....the artists impression doesn't look anything like what it would actually look like.

I'm looking at using these when I put the speakers in my doors, I wonder if you can get mulitple contact ones i.e. instead of just two contacts have like 4 or 6. Cause my drivers door operates with a 4 wire solenoid.

Awesome write up man, definately doing this soon.