camerondownunder88 Posted May 17, 2007 Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Hi, I am searching around now for 3F lifters to place into my 5K at home. I went to super cheap they had a quick look in the parts cataloge and couldn't find them. So I am wondering does anyone know a place I can get 3F motor lifters cheap? Also what are they worth new? Or is it cheaper to get used ones and reface them? Cheers Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted May 17, 2007 Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Try a 4wd wreckers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrolla68 Posted May 17, 2007 Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Hi, I am searching around now for 3F lifters to place into my 5K at home. I went to super cheap they had a quick look in the parts cataloge and couldn't find them. So I am wondering does anyone know a place I can get 3F motor lifters cheap? Also what are they worth new? Or is it cheaper to get used ones and reface them? Cheers Cameron Cam how come you don't just go and buy some holden solid lifters mate, they are only about $10 each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coln72 Posted May 17, 2007 Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Is there any reason you need to change the lifters????? I've never had any problems with 5K hydrolic lifters in any of the motors Ive had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 isn't changing to solid lifters you can have adjustable tappets. Then you can easily adjust it for a cam profile? Hey Cameron, if you can't find one at the wreckers, you might have to try at a toyota parts dealer, with the part numbers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 (edited) Is there any reason you need to change the lifters????? I've never had any problems with 5K hydrolic lifters in any of the motors Ive had. IIRC, Hydrolics in a high revving 5k will start to close up the valve lift at high RPM, due to the "slop" or give in the lifter. Converting to solids tightens everything up and gives better high RPM results. :cool: Oh and matt, apparently the cruiser lifters are a fair bit lighter than the chev items. Edited May 18, 2007 by Taz_Rx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coln72 Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 How high do you want to go. Mine have seen 8000rpm. As you can hear, they have no probs at high revs - this test wasn't big enough to get really serious either :) Its nothing for the shift light, set at 7500rpm, to be lit for an entire run. The previous tacho would sit on the stop which was at 8000rpm. Solids in my 3k after a big rev were always out of adjustment anyway. So there was never an advantage. The maintenance side sucked. IMHO a lot of other issues are blamed on the lifters . Now I'll just wait to be yelled at :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 (edited) I just purchased a complete set (16 actually) of Chev solid lifters from Crow Cams, here in Melbourne. They are sold in boxes of 16, and i'm not sure if they are willing to seperate them. They are normally $6 each ($96 for 16), however I made the trip out there and paid $75 cash for 16 of them (2 sets for a Corolla). All the Chev solid lifters are the same, and carry the same part number. They are 50mm long, and 0.840" in diameter. *EDIT* The Crow Cams part number is AT992-16 Edited May 18, 2007 by kangaroosa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted May 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 Hi, What holden motor are the solids from? 202 blue red etc. Also chev lifters sound good. But are heavier ill do the cheapest option but less mass to move means a lot less stress load etc list goes on. Ill add to this post after I eat dinner..lol Cheers Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 Some one just told me 138 grey motors were solid lifter and all other straight 6's were hydraulic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 I'm pretty sure the woman at Crow Cams told me that both the Chev and Holden solid lifters are the same part number. Solid Lifters PART NO. APPLICATION MODEL DIAMETER OIL THRU PUSHROD AT2000 Ford V8 and Crossflow .872" Yes AT992 GM Chev and Holden .840" Yes AT2084 Chrysler Hemi 6 .902" Yes AT937 Chrysler Slant 6 & V8 .902" No VT2071 Volvo Pushrod engines No Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrolla68 Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 I'm pretty sure the woman at Crow Cams told me that both the Chev and Holden solid lifters are the same part number. Solid Lifters PART NO. APPLICATION MODEL DIAMETER OIL THRU PUSHROD AT2000 Ford V8 and Crossflow .872" Yes AT992 GM Chev and Holden .840" Yes AT2084 Chrysler Hemi 6 .902" Yes AT937 Chrysler Slant 6 & V8 .902" No VT2071 Volvo Pushrod engines No Bout time someone listened to me,ive been running these lifters for 15 years without issue. Si yes they are lighter but if 3grams is all that is in it then does it really slow the valve train down. YES all holden/chev lifters are the same size red/ blue /black. Good buy for $75 for 16 by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrolla68 Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 How high do you want to go. Mine have seen 8000rpm. As you can hear, they have no probs at high revs - this test wasn't big enough to get really serious either :) Its nothing for the shift light, set at 7500rpm, to be lit for an entire run. The previous tacho would sit on the stop which was at 8000rpm. Solids in my 3k after a big rev were always out of adjustment anyway. So there was never an advantage. The maintenance side sucked. IMHO a lot of other issues are blamed on the lifters . Now I'll just wait to be yelled at :cool: Total rpm is not the issue here i don't think it is the ramp can be a lot more agrressive on a solid tha a hydraulic. FAst opening valve train. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted May 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 Hi, OK the problem I have is the stainless steel lfters I have in my 5K most of them are stuffed as well the bottom of them is missing..lol I will get a pic tomorrow as it is late now. But it looks like I will be going to super cheap tomorrow to price and order some AT992 GM Chev and Holden lifters off them. As then the 5K will be running as I have 8 A12 datto push rods in the post now so 5K will be running and ready for the sprinter. Also I have heard on places when changing from hydro to solid lifters the oil passages need to be blocked a bit on the lifter section as not blocking them can cause a large drop in oil pressure. Can anyone confirm this on a 5K? And a solid lifter cam has a MUST more aggressive ramp on a cam than hydro's. Also solid cams if made properly have a small 10 though or less ramp on the back called a silencing ramp to take up the valve tappet clearance momentarily to make it quieter. This will pump up a hydro lifter and cause them to open the valve when it should be shut. Also I have read that Toyota 5K hydro lifters are designed, rate to work to 6500 RPM as there in a van motor not meant ot be revving hard. So 7 grand on a stock 5K hydro lifter setup it will do it i got toe 7000 RPM as well before they died. But what happens they slowly pump up and instead of the valve sealing at those RPM's the valve might be open say 10 thou letting gasses out or in at the wrong time so it will do it but you lose power efficiency so why bother. So I want solid so i can rev to say 8 grnad and have my valves actually shut. Cheers Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrolla68 Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 Hi, OK the problem I have is the stainless steel lfters I have in my 5K most of them are stuffed as well the bottom of them is missing..lol I will get a pic tomorrow as it is late now. But it looks like I will be going to super cheap tomorrow to price and order some AT992 GM Chev and Holden lifters off them. As then the 5K will be running as I have 8 A12 datto push rods in the post now so 5K will be running and ready for the sprinter. Also I have heard on places when changing from hydro to solid lifters the oil passages need to be blocked a bit on the lifter section as not blocking them can cause a large drop in oil pressure. Can anyone confirm this on a 5K? And a solid lifter cam has a MUST more aggressive ramp on a cam than hydro's. Also solid cams if made properly have a small 10 though or less ramp on the back called a silencing ramp to take up the valve tappet clearance momentarily to make it quieter. This will pump up a hydro lifter and cause them to open the valve when it should be shut. Also I have read that Toyota 5K hydro lifters are designed, rate to work to 6500 RPM as there in a van motor not meant ot be revving hard. So 7 grand on a stock 5K hydro lifter setup it will do it i got toe 7000 RPM as well before they died. But what happens they slowly pump up and instead of the valve sealing at those RPM's the valve might be open say 10 thou letting gasses out or in at the wrong time so it will do it but you lose power efficiency so why bother. So I want solid so i can rev to say 8 grnad and have my valves actually shut. Cheers Cameron Cam, all correct. If you use the holden/chev solid lifters you will have no problems as they are basically exactly the same as the toyota hydraulics but solid, no need to block oil galleries etc etc. Also whats wiht the STAINLESS STEEL lifters man, the bottom of them is missing???????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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