Nah thats not what I'm saying, just ellaborating on why he has said thats what he'll use.

I've never really had a lot to do with alloy case W's so I (and I'm sure Matt) am more than happy to take some advise from you on the ratios etc from personal experience. :lolcry:

 

no no no i mean explain how he blew the diff LOL :lolcry:

Thanks for the comments and opinions guys. The reason for my choice of w56 is exactly as defunkt said. It will come with the K-W bellhousing on it. Also i can combat the ratios (albeit only a little) by changing the diff ratio. If it is still unsuited i will mostly end up looking for a W57/58 down the track. But seriously anything will be an improvement over the 4 speed i have been running over the last couple of months.

 

Cuzzo i am also wide open to more suggestions.

 

 

Matt.

 

[EDIT]

 

Evan it was only a matter of time before a diff or another gearbox let go, with the torque the 7K is making over a stock 3K only a couple of nasty launches wont prolong the life of the 31 year old diff.

Edited October 24, 200917 yr by 78_7kRolla

I wasnt aware they had a k-w bell on them.

 

That would be a perfect solution if this all works out.

So you don't think the ratios in a W56 are so bad that they can't be helped by changing the diff ratio? Thanks for your help BTW.

Well i don't know what ratios it is but normally you don't balance a box ratio with diff gears.

Coming from a van it'll probably just have a shorter first and longer second than a 57/58.

 

Cuzzo I took some pics of a 7ke and w56 here....

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=13835#

 

This is a K - alloy case W, which is obviously different to the K - steel case W40/50 (liteace) bellhousing.

 

 

Oh Matt - This is where your super expensive clutch kit for the 7k flywheel will pay off I suppose!!! Now you can just get a normal old townace clutch kit and away you go! :yes:

Haha Si, i was just thinking yesterday that thank God it wasn't such a waste of cash. Can't beleive you remembered about that! Also thanks for the reference pics link. Top stuff :yes:

Have you thought of going down the K-T path rather than K-W? W-series get really expensive and are quite a bit heavier.

T-50's are great gearboxes. Can get cable clutch K-T bellhousings too!

 

Love the car! Very clean :D

Have you ever tried to source a K-T bellhousing? They're not the easiest things to find. I started a "K-T roll call" thread to see how many we had amongst rollaclub members and I think there is about 12'ish in Aus!!!

 

I have a K-T50 in my turbo car and a K-W50 which I'm about to put in another project. If I had to get another 'strong K GB' then I know which one I'd get, being the K-W50. Why:

1, Well if you'd heard my K-T50 lately you probably agree that for a high perfromance K series the W50 is a much stronger option.

2, They're a whole lot easier to find as you just use the Bell-housing from a liteace, and the GB from an RA40 etc (neither are rare). Compared to trying to find one of the few KE35's that had K-T's or Carina etc which we never got in Aus.

3, Price. Have a search through previous FS threads and you see that you can pay up to twice as much for a K-T over a K-W because they're so rare.

Taz, following up on your post...

 

would you rather go a W50 from the early celica/corona, or a W55/7/8 from the later celica/supra/corona???

 

(don't include having to put in a hydrolic clutch as part of your answer)

 

cheers

dF

Taz, following up on your post...

 

would you rather go a W50 from the early celica/corona, or a W55/7/8 from the later celica/supra/corona???

 

(don't include having to put in a hydrolic clutch as part of your answer)

 

cheers

dF

 

Sorry I wasn't very clear on that, I'm talking about the steel case W40/50.

 

I think the alloy case (w56 etc) would again be getting a bit expensive. I remember Madrolla68 got a price on the complete W56 with the correct BH from a KR42R townace. Along with the correct KR flywheel its was going to be $900 IIRC. Saying that though it would be an absolutey bullet-proof K series box.

Having the convert to hydro wouldn't overly faze me though. Its easy enough for any 4a etc conversion in a KE. Using a K-W50 would be easier though as they still use cables.

yeah, figured you're talking about the steel case W40/50.

 

i'm just worried that my partner won't like using a cable clutch w-box in our ke26. (read: will complain about having a sore clutch leg from using it repeatedly)

It really depends on what sort of clutch you use. Would be even better if you could find some sort of double diaphram pressure plate.

 

Even if you get a HD pressure plate with extra clamping force then they'll normally make these with different "ratio" fingers (like increased ratio rocker arms) to lighten it back up.

 

The HD cusioned button clutch (exedy) that I have in Tar is actually a fair bit lighter to depress than both the (shithouse) RPM heavy duty full face clutch in Dirt AND the hydraulically driven cushioned button in my mazda.

 

So yeah, depending on the clutch you use a cable isn't always going to be heavier than hydraulic. :)

Thanks v much Taz, now that makes my decisions much more complicated :) hehe

Reading through the last couple of posts has now got me thinking even more. As i figure this is meant to be an upgrade for life i'm leaning towards the alloy w56 path and obviously converting to hydraulic clutch. Also the larger heavy duty 7k clutch i have at the moment is just as easy to use as the pissy little 3k clutch, so it does depend of the type of clutch used.

 

Thanks for the info guys.

 

 

Matt.