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Pete-ke20

4g93t In To Ke20

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This is a rough guide to my project so far!

 

Ok, so I wanted to do something different, and I have always wanted to have a gsr lancer or vr4 galant as they are fairly quick but having not much cash and wanting to work on the car myself I decided to put a 4g93t engine like that out of the gsr lancer into my ke20. I also chose to do this as it appeared to be just as much F*#king about to do the 4age conversion and that the 4age would be more expensive due to every man and his dog doing it and only soo many parts about.

 

The engine is a 1.8 litre DOHC 16v engine, which is a Japanese block (very important when it come to bell housing and box selection). I used this engine as in QLD the law is that you multiply the cars GVM by 2.5 for boosted or 3 for natural and that gives the biggest engine you can put in (This makes no sense as a 1300kg vn commodore came out with a 5lt v8 when I went to school 1300*3 = 3900cc so its only just legal with its 3.8lt v6) Anyways with my ke20 two door its weight is 776 on the QLD register allowing me 1945cc of power and given the 4g63t (2lt) is 1985cc, this means I am very upset.

 

In the Mitsubishi range all the Japanese blocks from about 78 till current (I think) all share the same bell housing, or similar enough for 4 bolts to align and the starter.

 

To start with I sat a 4g94 engine I have in to the rolla it’s a 2.4 SOHC from a triton, but I figure I can see if it will fit etc. And well it did almost too well the mounts fell right into place with clearance everywhere.

 

 

So armed with the knowledge that a gutless 4g94 will fit I took the leap and bought a jap gsr half cut.

With in about 40 min of having the half cut I had the engine and gearbox out of it. Obviously I couldn’t use that box as it was an auto but also as it was a front wheel drive box with a 4wd transfer. (For sale BTW pm me)

Unfortunately the 4g93 and 64 blocks differ enough for the 64 mounts not to bolt onto the 93. However a quick vist to my mates engineering workshops bin had be a big piece of 8mm flat steel. I simple hacked (neatly) the angled bits off of the 64 mount bracket and then got a mate with a tig to weld it to the steel plate. Drilled holes etc and then thanks to modern technology I had two beautiful mounts. And I was very lazy when tacking these for him I just kinda guessed and well as I’m a lucky person they were perfectly placed. Height and everything.

 

 

 

I then had to find some rubbers the fill the gap (actually did this before I made the mounts wasn’t as guessed (dodgy) as perhaps thought). The rubber mounts are ford Cortina ones A1200 is the part number. These are rather stiff mounts but being out of a 6cyl ample in strength for the little 4 I have.

 

A few issues encountered was the water housing on the rear of the head (similar to the issues with the fwd 4age) This was easily fixed by welding up a few outlets and relocating the unit to under the plenum.

 

Sorry no pics of this.

My next hurdle was the CAS (Crank angle sensor) as I wanted my engine back so far this had to be moved (same problem as 20v 4age on this engine is what we say superior as it uses Multi coil not a dizzy) Alas this was easily fixed by modifying the CAS unit and getting a mount made up and putting it on the front of the CAM.

 

Ah to the fun bit GEARBOX = power to wheels. Very easy as I had a jap block all I had to do was get a jap box, I went with a GJ Narrow sigma one a KM132 (I think) this is a rather strong box and only cost me 150 with a tail shaft. The box was ment to be in a ke20 much like the engine, it fits nice and snug and the gear stick comes out in a perfect spot, only issue was due to me thinking handling I sat the engine about 5mm to low so now the bottom of the bell housing just hits the steering arm at full lock. Bell housing meet grinder.

 

To Fuel, my car will need it to run so a surge tank from autobahn and two bosch pumps should help.

Phone camera sucks (only one pump in at time too)

 

So then comes the wiring, bored I decided to install my G-reddy turbo timer first. Easy to do.

Then along came family holidays so I took my laptop and ke20 manual with me along with a few lancer manuals in pdf format.

I produced this.

 

(Insert wiring list and stuff 'ere)

 

And when I returned home I had this all done in a day and everything worked, well except for one of the MFI relay earths was broken so I had to fix it but then everything else worked! I used a Narva fuse box and the relay box out of a R31 skyline just coz I had one in my wreck and it looks fair neat. I used a few extra relays here and there. And if one is doing this DO NOT neglect the start signal to the ecu as the ecu will only earth the MFI relay for the fuel pump when cranking or has a stable CAS signal so if you stall it in accident is safe. I used the MFI relay to trigger another relay for the fuel pumps as they are pulling about 35 amps and don’t wanna have to load up the MFI relay too much. I also ran a Starter relay poor old rolla ignition has had a hard life no doubt so figured it would be easier now then later. Also ran a relay to switch power the MFI relay when IGN is on again old Ignition switch and high current loads.

 

Now to the brakes. I want my beast to stop so I decided I would use the larger GSR lancer calipers (makes it easier for mod plate, can say I have same stopping power as car that engine from.

I used a Suzuki swift booster and master cyl, this is a very small unit and should work well, obviously I am using a one way valve in my vacuum line so I don’t boost my booster when on boost and can't stop.

 

So I am using GSR calipers and pads Ke20 strut and what rotors?? Well I measured up the clearances and stuff and then sat and scrolled through 300 pages of DBA catalogue, I found that Passat Rotors will work on the back of the original hub, has same diameter as the GSR rotor and very close thickness’s (min and orig) so perfect I cryed, and you can get them in slotted!!!

So I have calipers and rotors but not mounts, a pair or vernia calipers, some autocad skills and much patients along with paper models, allowed me to produce a 3D sketch of what I wanted for mounts, then some 25mm thick steel plate was sourced and my mate with a mill received a few six packs, a 3D drawing, dimensions and calipers.

 

 

These brakes are so big that I had to cut the center out of my 13’s and weld them in backwards just so I could move the car around while I awaited my new wheels. Not even just bolting them on backwards would work!

Turbo.

The gsr being AWD and an early model, had the turbo on the wrong way around, compressor at rear and impellor at front. I thought about it and then decided to just spin it about on its own axis, all I had to do was slightly enlarge the whole in the manifold and turbo, which is good for flow anyways, and then just bolt it back up, then plumb the water and oil lines, easy as pie. Now I don’t have to go the effort of making some extreme exhaust bends and stuff.

 

 

Wheels!!!! This was a challenge I want to stick with 15’s and keep a modest offset so that they wouldn’t be poking out of the guards a mile, and also keep them narrowish, so that they didn’t poke out too far. I found superlites to be about my only choice in the 15x6 with a 23p offset, so I ordered them and I don’t actually mind the look of them they suit the style of car quite well. Wrapped in RE001 195x50 15’s

 

 

Front end.

I got bored one day and went to town with nolathane bushes in the front end, lower control arms, sway bar links and chassis mounts, Z bars.

 

I also made a one off sway bar for it, I utilized an r31 rear sway bar I had lying around that looked like it would fit just by eyeing it, turns out I had to bend it and get it re-sprung, but it was good as it cleared my sump which the original didn’t, it has the spurt where it normally would go around the diff. I ended up a little different to how it is pictured below, those ear bits ended up pointing up so the tyres wouldn’t scrub out on them at ½ lock, I can get full lock to lock and full travel in suspension with no worries, also its 2mm thicker than the stock plus the nolathane bushes they say add 2mm to the bar.

 

 

Cooling.

To cool this thing I had the original radiator modified to a 3 core system utilizing a 12inch thermo on the back of it, I had a mate do this up for my who runs a radiator shop.

 

Here are a bunch of pictures unfortunatly i can't put them in the text in order etc

 

Hope you all enjoyed the read, and i will post up more as i go (going really slow atm, just started new job)

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Just to add to this for all those people that say they can't do it, i am 18 and have done ALL this work myself, apart from the milling of the brake parts and the CAS mount, however i did do 3d drawings of both (the CAS mount was cut from this drawing). I have done all the leg work myself and all the man hours, i occasionally picked my old mans brain but not often. I did all the work so far in my 6 month gap between quitting engineering at uni and starting my fitter and turner apprenticeship.

 

Get in there give it ago ya-self!!!

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Good on ya mate :y: very neat love the engine choice 1.8 litre mitsubishi turbo. This would have to be the only one in oz i reckon, very different great stuff. :)

Edited by radrollaz

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Thats an awesome idea for a powerplant! I always wondered what box they used for the RWD conversions with these.

 

Regarding the capacity thing, in NSW the rules change when you hit 1100kg to 4.82 x for NA and 4.0 x for turbo / supercharged.

 

Just a quick question about the discs that you are going to run, what model Passat are they off? I can see that the DBA446 is the same OD, but a bit thinner, and the DBA800 is a bit closer on thickness.

 

Cheers Ian

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Absolutely love the work man!

 

Most are scared to have a crack at something, you've done very well :y: :y:

 

 

(This makes no sense as a 1300kg vn commodore came out with a 5lt v8 when I went to school 1300*3 = 3900cc so its only just legal with its 3.8lt v6)

 

Yep, the qld rules are the same as the nsw ones mentioned above,

 

also if you're vehicle is over 1100kg, and has a full chassis the rules change to x 5.46 for n/a,

 

and x 4.68 for forced induction. my crown has a full chassis, and it makes me excited just thinking about it :(

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Congrats on the build it looks great, its also a really good write up and good read.

Out of interest what springs are you running at the front to be able to fit those wheels?

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Congrats on the build it looks great, its also a really good write up and good read.

Out of interest what springs are you running at the front to be able to fit those wheels?

 

Thanks for the reply

 

 

The springs are stocko to my knowledge, the struts are KE30 struts but, bought the car like that. I assume this as i have 114.3 pcd all round, and the rear end is wider than stock ke20 spec. But these wheels are listed in the performance wheels database as beeing good to fit a stock ke20. the top of the tyre sits lower than the spring seat.

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Interesting, I don't know how they fitted Ke30 struts in because I have just tried this and the don't fit with the top hat being to wide and the bottom 2 holes that bolt to the steering arms don't line up. But thanks for the info. You have one seriously good build on your hands and are doing a really great job at writting it up.

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its probably like mine, ke55 (or something else 114.3 x 4 stud pattern) discs up front and a ke55 diff.

 

so pete, are the rims different offsets or are you running spacers at the front?

 

is it a borg warner diff?

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its probably like mine, ke55 (or something else 114.3 x 4 stud pattern) discs up front and a ke55 diff.

 

so pete, are the rims different offsets or are you running spacers at the front?

 

is it a borg warner diff?

 

 

Nah the wheels are 15x6 with a 23p offset all round, they only just poke out of the guards like 1/8" if that with 195/50's on em.

 

The rear end is a jap one, banjo type, from memory. You making me think now. The front struts, have the square caliper mount pattern, i know i had a spare set that were in the boot when i got the car that had the holes all slightly offset to another and i originaly used these to draw my caliper mounts up coz they were easy to measure as not on car but i found out that the struts were different before making them thankfully!.

 

If you can give me some tips on what to look at to tell what they are and the rear end then ill check em out and measure etc to let you all know!

 

Ke26 Wagon, Thanks mate i only wrote this up quick i prob left heaps and heaps of info out, i also got lazy with the camera as i mostly had dirty hand while working on it and was a new phone then so i didnt wanna dirty it.

 

I'll get a few pics of the underneath and where the box mounts and stick lines up with floor if any one is interested.

 

The engine bay is an absolute mess atm, in the process of hiding my injector wiring and putting in inlet mani and putting throttle body on reverse end, and no time to do it all... 3 long weekend in an row for me coming up so i should get heaps done!! Love my RDO's and public holidays!

Edited by Pete-ke20

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Hi again, do you have coil overs for the front struts? Damn its hard to work out brake packages for Ke2x. I am just collecting all the bits i need to start the conversion in my Ke26. Going SR20DET auto witha hilux diff. all i need now is to sort the front brakes and i can get underway. you have given me an idea for the brakes now which should work

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I am leagally alowed to go for a 2lt turbo as per the RTA's new rules. So i thought about it and the SR was the best option i thought for bang for buck. CA's are good but you can't beat capacity.

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