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Chestikoph Sr20Det Ke55 Coupe

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2 hours ago, ke70dave said:

it looks rather professional. nicely done. 

I should buy a tig. 

Thanks Dave, yeah it's great having the Tig, I have knocked up a few bits and pieces with it now it's been so useful particularly for the aluminium fabrication side of things. Definitely worth grabbing an ac/dc model for the versatility of material capabilities.

I made a new catch can with it last week, it's not perfect but for a first attempt it turned out OK.

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Re positioned the hydraulic handbrake to the side of the tunnel, it's a more rigid area to mount it to. Having it bolted to two surfaces rather than one like before has made it a lot stiffer than before.

Loving owning a tig welder, I made up mount with some 3mm aluminium plate and drilled a few holes to access the mounting bolts and lighten it a bit, just need to plumb it up and remount remote reservoir.

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Just the small stuff left now, foot rest for clutch pedal made up and fire extinguishers mounted. Need to make up the heel plates next and mod the accelerator pedal so it's closer to the brake pedal.

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On 6 December 2018 at 5:24 AM, altezzaclub said:

Lovely work!  I'm afraid our rally car will never look this good!

Thanks altezzclub, unfortunately I know it won't stay this clean even though it's only going to see tarmac.

Finally got around to re doing the exhaust, it had to remade due to the floor of the car now being lower and flatter, the resonator used to fit into a slight rise in the floor but that section was cut out. This system should flow better though it's a more direct path to the muffler which I swapped out to stainless on as well.

Couple more things to hook up in the engine bay, prime the oil system and it's ready to restart after a long hiatus.

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Passenger side done, I have raised this side above the floor by about an inch to try and avoid the heat from the exhaust, it runs directly under the passenger footwell. Can't have the passenger burning their feet!!

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Happy new year everyone!!

What a better way to kick this new year off for me than to get this car running, fuel in, oil pressure up and started first crank. Quick check over for leaks and funny noises, all good. Went for a slow drive around the block to set up initial brake balance, brakes seem pretty good, balance feels ok straight off the get go, a bit it more pedal effort required without the booster but the feel is great with no vagueness at all. 

On the bad side tyres are shot, they have gone square from sitting on the one spot for so long, its like driving on square wheels. I was going to freshen them up soon but was hoping to run them for the shake down event on the 10th.

Anyway here she is out of the garage properly for the first time in ages.

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On 2 January 2019 at 5:00 PM, oh what a nissan feeling! said:

So good mate,  nice work, it looks insane!

A bit jelly as mines still a week or two off

 

On 2 January 2019 at 6:50 PM, ke70dave said:

well done! looks the business. 

Thanks fellas.

Motor back in yours Matt?

New tyres on and rolling smoothly now, oppted for a set of AR1's, great reviews on these and priced really well. Definitely more of a slick than the RSR, heaps softer with a tread wear rating of 80 compared to 140 of the  Federals.

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My first event since the rebuild and couldn't be happier, still a lot of things to work on particularly the balance of the car, it's like starting all over again with handling setup, but it ran well with no issues. It feels significantly more rigid with the cage now and definitely getting a heap more feedback on the cars behaviour. First thing to look at is the brake pad choice and brake balance, currently running some QFM AR1M  but just not getting the bite they were when I was running the boosted setup. Considering a couple options one being Forza FR 6 carbon fibre based pads, after chatting to the guys at GSL Rallsport they said these are more suited to a non vacuum assisted setup. Once that's sorted I will sus out the front to rear brake balance and then move onto the springs and sway bars. Next round on the 7th, in the mean time a couple pics pinched from the web.

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In getting things ready for the next round I thought I would fix somethings that I was never really happy with for a while. The extra positive castor and negative camber I am running causes my lower control arms to sit at a pretty high angle compared to standard. The sway bar link pins were at a bad tilt and I wasn't getting full benifit from the swaybar also the castor rod was starting to bind even though it has a rose joint connection. I did have go at a fix for the sway bar link a while back but it wasn't the best solution.

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So I have changed the orientation of sway bar hole to the vertical plane and welded and redrilled the castor rod mounting holes on the control arm. link is nice and straight now and the castor rod pivots freely. Ultimately I wouldn't mind making up new control arms from some chromoly tube with multiple mounting options, but this is fine for now.

After...

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5 hours ago, Taz_Rx said:

T3 gtx2?

Yeah I've seen those Si, they do look good but hard to justify the price considering the exchange rate at the moment.

It would be pretty straight forward to fabricate just need to sus out the ball joint or maybe use a spherical bearing instead. Getting the wheel alignment redone on Saturday so I will see if this has made a difference, gonna run a little bit of toe out aswell see if that improves turn in. I also grabbed some higher rate springs of a mate to swap out and experiment after a couple of runs.

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