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Posted (edited)

Got a roadworthy today for my AE71, mechanic said it needed front and rear brakes. BUT 4000kms ago the brakes were at 63% (last roadworthy). Does this sound right? I'm not sure what percentage the brakes need to be at for them to be deemed roadworthy, but it someone could shed some light on this it would be great.

 

Cheers

Edited by jluc_93
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Posted

define "needed new brakes".

 

not much too brakes, discs/pads..drums/shoes and fluid and mastercylinder.

 

that % thing is crap.

 

i didnt even know the % thing existed untill i actually watched my s15 get a RWC, the little device they use to measure the % is pathetic. the guy explained to me that the results are totally not repeatable.

Posted

Sorry, it needed new pads and shoes. Maybe I'm wrong, but the car feels the same. The brakes feel the same, they don't feel any better. But again, I might be wrong.

Posted (edited)

Of course it feels exactly the same!

 

Worn pads work just as well as newer pads unless you work them hard enough to overheat them.

 

Last test I got the mech turned up with a brake test graph for the car stapled to the certificate and I'd stood there all the time so I know damm well he never even started the motor, never mind drove it!

 

Anyone know what the % actually is?? The amount of pad left?? The braking efficiency on a rolling road??

Edited by altezzaclub
Posted

I will replace pads on customers cars if the pad material is equal or lower than the backing thickness, of coursr some cars like falcons don't have a thick pad to begin with. But its a good rule to stick with.

 

Obviously rear shoes are different, and you tend to want to change them with 2mm left, and they do wear uneven too.

Posted

If it was a KE70 I'd say it doesn't need brakes (because a 4k can't make enough speed to require anything more than putting your foot out the door to stop the car).

Posted

Did he specifically tell you to replace your brake pads/shoes? I always thought the braking percentage was a reflection of the braking force in relation to the weight of the car. Can you bring the car to a complete stop reasonably quick with your big toe pressing on your brake pedal? Or do you have to press relatively firmly on a hard pedal to stop?

 

You may need more pressure/force check your master cylinder and booster. May also be wise to call your mechanic again and ask him exactly what he wanted fixed.

Posted (edited)

Anyone know what the % actually is?? The amount of pad left?? The braking efficiency on a rolling road??

 

Braking efficiency of how well your car can pull up, it does the opposite to a g-tech, if I get time then I might throw the one at work in the ute and go for a drive so I can get a vid.

Edited by Trev
Posted

Braking efficiency of how well your car can pull up, it does the opposite to a g-tech, if I get time then I might throw the one at work in the ute and go for a drive so I can get a vid.

 

That'd be great Trev.

 

 

Seriously though, whats a set of front pads for a KE70 worth? I think my Ferodos were about $50 and Bendix G-CT were $40something. Shoes might be a little more pricey but you could get second hand ones. They tend not to wear very fast at all.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

That'd be great Trev.

 

Have not forgotten about this, have a car that I am currently doing an RWI on (road worthy inspection, then it gets sent off and gets looked at again for road worthy certificate, this may sound weird but saves spending twice the amount on a rwc if it fails.) so when I take it for a test drive in the next day or 2 I will throw the meter in.

Posted

Well it isn't as easy as it sounds to be able to drive and video tape it while it is sitting on the floor, I will get some pics of it so you can get a fair idea of how it works and will get a vid if it is in the car with someone else driving.

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