In sayign that one thing that suprises me is when I'm cranking the engine after like 20 seconds of crank fuel starts to piss out the bottom of the joint between carb and turbo. if that helps.

 

Assuming you are meaning between the inlet of the turbo and the carby, doesn't this indicate a huge vacuum leak?

Well if fuel is dribbling out then you would also have a vacuum leak!! Sounds like it could be a little rich as well.

 

.....beaten to the punch!

Edited January 28, 201412 yr by Taz_Rx

hmm right well il get another clamp and anything you guys recommend to put in there like a gasket goo type thing to help?

 

I also have a boost gauge that reads vacuum at the manifold, anyone have any ideas on what kind of vacuum PSI i should be seeing on crank?

Edited January 28, 201412 yr by clean55

This is just an example to your oiling,

Cheers!

Wow everyones a drawthrough guru now lol! amazing how not one person with theyre enlightened opinioin actually run a drawthrough setup?

At no stage is it mentioned whether the factory looking turbo has been BUSHED to accept an entire front cover and wheel assembly full of FUEL!!

A 1300 cc isnt exactly the biggest air pump either hence the wastgate comments about it being stuck open, if it is the front compressor wheel will would be lucky

if it turned at all! If the bushes seals and thrust bearing arent modified in no time at all fuel WILL bleed into the rear housing along the shaft, and into the rear housing.

Imagine that the entire intake side of engine ie front turbo housing , pipework, inlet manifold, will be full of compuonded fuel at boost,NOT AIR!!!! For you efi guys do me a favour and

rip of that pod filter and jam a garden hose in the front of that pretty little turbo add tons and tons of fuel to said garden hose and see how much it likes to fire lol,SCHOOLS OUT! and so am i

Ha ha i needed that thanks Reed

 

Sorry don't no any think about turbos or want to,at the end of the day it needs fuel air spark compression.

Edited January 28, 201412 yr by corollaart

moses, are you sure that your ignition timing is right?? sounds like it is set to tdc on the exhaust stroke not the compression stroke, put your finger over the sparkplug hole and make sure you feel heaps of pressure when the piston is coming up to tdc when turning it over by hand.

-phil

moses, are you sure that your ignition timing is right?? sounds like it is set to tdc on the exhaust stroke not the compression stroke, put your finger over the sparkplug hole and make sure you feel heaps of pressure when the piston is coming up to tdc when turning it over by hand.

-phil

 

Ill double check it again phil, its driving me insane... stupid engine just work dammit. ahaha

Yeah I'm also down for timing being 180 degrees out, even though I'm not some "drawthrough guru".

 

Of course I don't really know - I'm just trying be helpful.

 

But I do have further suggestions as to where one might jamb a garden hose.

Edited January 28, 201412 yr by Mechanical Sympathy

ok so got a it firing now... i feel embarrassed to say it but it was TDC on exhaust stroke :( BUT it still wont stay alive, anddd my mid way through cranking the motor the starter motor stopped, i assumed it must be out a tooth or something turned the engine with wrench half a compression starter motor then turned fine but a weird clicking sound appeared almost like two bits of metal tapping and it wouldn't fire again form hat point :S

ok so got a it firing now...

How many times did you start it?? Just once?? Did it run on faster than the starter motor?

 

The clicking sound could be the solenoid running on a flat battery and not being able to supply enough current for the starter to turn..

Get that battery on charge and then nudge a few (several, like 8) degrees advance on the dizzy. Firing at 0 degrees TDC won't idle well.

 

Then , if you're running points you'll need to reset them too.

Edited January 29, 201412 yr by Mechanical Sympathy

How many times did you start it?? Just once?? Did it run on faster than the starter motor?

 

The clicking sound could be the solenoid running on a flat battery and not being able to supply enough current for the starter to turn..

 

Get that battery on charge and then nudge a few (several, like 8) degrees advance on the dizzy. Firing at 0 degrees TDC won't idle well.

 

Then , if you're running points you'll need to reset them too.

 

ok so it would ---i don't really know the word for it---- "BURST" fire faster than starter but not steady would just die right off again if i dropped starter, and the battery was on a battery charger the whole time so it couldn't be flat could it?

OK sure battery seems fine then. Get a helper monkey to twist the dizzy slightly while you crank it. And pray the metal tapping sound is nothing!

 

Good luck man, this looks like an excellent set up. We're rooting for you!