altezzaclub

It does look like they are getting every horsepower out of the 3K that they can!

Knibusus's words reminded me- "I like to document things so that if anyone in the near future wants to do the same modification, there is documented information for them to refer to and may make it a bit more easier for them. " ..and I used to read Billzilla's pages a lot for 4AGE info. Now it shows- "Account Suspended. This Account has been suspended." www.billzilla.org/

Well done! That will solve all the problems.

No sweat, that is common. Measure the thicknesses exactly, find spring washers of that thickness and cut them in half. Glue or tackweld the half-washers onto the normal heavy washers and use them to even the flanges. I've had to slice the bigger washers to fit sometimes, or trim welds back. You could put bits of wire in the gap instead, I've seen that done. You can resurrect the other extractors with a little work.

Should be interesting when its done, those T3 coilovers will make a difference.

Yes, I'm using the BCR conversion & Manon's Willwood brakes setup. The 13" brake caliper he sells doesn't go inside a stock 13" KE70 rim, so its all 14s now. The BCR springs were too stiff for these roads, so I'm on stock rears with a bit cut off and I bought some 4kg/mm fronts off Ebay. Looks like this- Those are tall 175 tyres, I'll probably get lower-profile 185s next time. We also did some machining of BCR's top hat system to run stock rubber tops, the camber adjusters were too harsh on bumps. You can see where I drive each day, no motorways or well-made Sydney roads! Are you going to add anti-tramp arms or similar to improve the rear suspension? The cart springs are pretty limited in everything except carrying loads.

"Front KFRL-16 Notes: CHECK FOR REDUCTION OF INSIDE DIAMETER OF ORIGINAL COIL LOWER MOUNT. IF 110MM ID USE KTFL-33 OR KTFS-33., PROGRESSIVE RATE DESIGN USED. Price code: A" https://kingsprings.com.au/catalogue/vehicle/945/toyota-corolla-ae70-ke70-1981-1985 For shocks I'm afraid no-one makes any modified shocks for the small diameter struts as far as I know, you are stuck with original equipment style like Monroe. If your struts have wet shocks inside you can modify the valves yourself, but they won't be able to be gassed.

..so not a coil or wiring problem, something tricky in the points not opening or not closing, the wire broken internally before the dizzy, or timing set way off... Quite a few people have thought the distributor turns the opposite way to what it does and ended up setting the timing on the wrong side of the square shaft. Touch a screwdriver across the open points with the ign on.

"But it is getting power to negative side on every coil i have tried with only the negative wire being connected. " You're a bit quick there for me.. shouldn't it only get power to the negative side of the coil when the positive side is connected and the ignition on? So 12volts goes from the key to the positive side of the coil, through the coil, out the negative side and off to the distributor. It joins to the points and the condensor, and power flows when the points are closed and it can get to earth. Does that sound right? This diagram is for a KE70 with the 9V coil and a ballast resistor, I don't know if the KE55 had that. I would check for 12V at the disconnected ignition-coil +ve wire, then put it back on and check for power at the points when they are open. If the first doesn't give you power its a wiring problem, and if there's power at the coil +ve but not the points the problem has to be in between. You will only read +12v at the points when they are open, once points close you won't get a voltage reading. However to get the car to spark you will need the points opening and closing to earth, so make sure your +12v at the open points vanishes when they close. Alternately, if you have the ignition on and the points open, they should spark when you short across them with a screwdriver.

" these are poorly welded and or warped"... Likely... When we weld a manifold it gets bolted to a head beforehand to minimise the warping. What does a straight-edge along the whole extractor face show? The middle two bent to one side or not parallel vertically?? The best answer would be to get them ground flat right along the mating face, which would be good if it was $100 or less. It would be cheaper to heat the middle pair up with an oxy/acetylene set and twist them to the right place once red-hot. Simple to heat up, but hard to get lined up just right. You could try lightly bolting just the headers on and heating them up, then pulling them flat with the bolts when soft. Unless the bolts/nuts pull it straight and flat, then the gasket will blow out all the time. Was it up to torque when you put the feeler gauge down it?

"We know points aren't sparking 100% of the time. They are sparking 90% of the time." If you haven't replaced the condensor it is time to do it, they make the spark good or bad. Rich is interesting, do you think it might be running a high fuel level, either float level or dirt on the needle seat. Is one of the other carbs any better?

Does it have the electrical fuel cut-out on the side of the carbie that the later ones did? Maybe that was KE70 only. Is it easy to start otherwise, cold or hot? Do you think it still has the same amount of fuel in the bowl when it stops?? So it shouldn't need a choke, or pumping the accelerator, it should start on idle. Will it start just holding the pedal down about 10-20%? Check the coil and distributor wiring, I've seen a broken coil wire that sat on the terminal until you braked hard, whereupon it swayed away and only went back to the coil as the motor shook from cranking.

Well, back on the road and better than before.. I saw a clue here where the edges of the TVIS throttle plates are covered in carbon. The edges should be clean where they shut against the inlet runners. A year or two (or three..) back I had assigned a Haltech pin to open the TVIS and a light to indicate it was open, and I relied on that. Nope, this time I figured out a way to photograph the arm that works them, with a bit of white paint on the arm and floodlights under the car, and setting the Haltech to trigger them at 1100rpm.. They are activated by the diaphram, but away from the camera so you can't usually see the arm that moves them. They stayed open all the time, the default Toyota position with no vacuum on them. So I chased Haltech pinouts and found one that activated them correctly, and the car is much better low down! Between the cams, the lack of flywheel and the TVIS the car was running rich and poorly low down. It crossed my mind, fairly seriously, to get a second TVIS plate and move the throttles to the other ports, and run them off the throttle cable with a TPS on one end.. That would give me throttle control right by the head ports, 4 runners for low revs and eight for high revs, and maybe a better control of off-idle power, the 2-5% where you are driving around town. I got hold of Johndee and he suggested just disabling them first to get a base-line of performance while I find a second TVIS setup and engineer the change in throttle plates, and... ..if anyone has a TVIS system lying around I'd love to know! So that adventure has been caught up on, plus I have the COPs from Barry Manon fitted, and the Banjo distributor doesn't leak oil!

Fit this if you haven't already- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/177487513731?fits=Plat_Gen%3AKE55|Make%3AToyota&_skw=toyota+ke55+headlight+relays&itmmeta=01KWTATQAZEH18AW53VFYHEBS4&hash=item2953148883:g:wf4AAeSwLYlo7Qds&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCm4UXQkL%2BH54Zn1Fi%2FK%2FCIxUre4eicbqIcF95OZ3t96q3XP9vLhknAsfBIOe48eDFmvIJRe3bpPw%2Fz1sSKPYDumWI8AZ5SB53LcKn3Yf0j12SROuHpLD%2FLX7ytBHgGOdGenbEhBoRSsLMw7UVJsyBhS7UKjgWoslCbmI95WhAvYTFyqP87W3JUdVfdD0vHf%2BQXMAeOpUMjDi6uPdRqoBDAow93TxGrZzWFtnfwEe15Nwcz1Mlse0h8qu154ciC%2F1NqyBVjz7DXeQJFCZl7%2BG4RjBRdClkDRxIt5oGKoj25zwzDMBYnGV5WSEdLWk1aIqQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-b16srmZw It takes all the heavy current out of the dash system. Its well worth the $30, but you can make your own with a couple of relays, which I did in The Girls KE70 many years ago. Then I'm afraid it will be tearing the dash out and cleaning earths and contacts and checking voltages...

Well, you're dead right with those tyres, tiresize.com says 90mph becomes 89.6..! You can count the diff ratio by jacking up one rear wheel and turning the driveshaft by hand, the KE70 auto diff is 4.3, the manual's is 4.1, still a much smaller error than you see.