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Have a look at the distance between the diff and the bump stop above it, and think about how much movement you want the car to have when you ride over a bump. That will be with an empty car I expect, and you won't be carrying anything in it when its lowered. What you decide for ride height will give you the comfort and the handling, because it will hit the bump stop with a back-bruising 'whack' and instantly transmit the weight of the car to the tyre sidewalls, who usually give up and the car jumps sideways. Buy the 3" lowering kit but start with some home-made steel boxes half that and see what happens. Run your coilovers with stock LCAs first, just use a spirit level to measure camber at home, and check how much tie-rod end thread is used. Using longer LCAs will give increasing camber and mean less and less thread holds the steering arms in. This was my KE70 on stock 175/70 tyres with just cut rear springs. ...and this is with BCR weld-on coilovers, their rear springs and 185/70 tyres on 14" rims. That car does 80km a day through countryside on B-grade roads so I need suspension that works well. The BCR rears were too hard so I went back to the stock springs and kept the BCR adjustable shocks. If your wagon is just a show pony for occasional track days you can go lower. What about sway bars? I run a stock front and an upgraded Celica rear. You might not need that much extra as the leaf springs will not have the grip of the 5-link. Is the rest of the body in good condition?

Hey all! I hope there's enough people here still to give me some advice. I just bought a 1983 Corolla Wagon that I plan on modifying to my liking, but I wanted someone to look over my parts list for lowering the car before I start buying things. I did my research in the KE70 Lowering thread, and I think I have a decent understanding of the parts I need. I was just hoping someone who has done the work can give me advice on whether or not these parts are correct. Front: Original Strut Housings and top mounts Technotoytuning Weld-on Coilover kit AW11 MR2 Rear Struts Ae86 LCAs Celica Wheels Wheel Spacers Rear: 3” Rear Leaf Spring Lowering Block Kit I've never done suspension work like this on my own, so this is all new to me. I bought this car as a vessel to learn how to work on cars, body work, suspension, engine work etc.. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hi all, I am looking for a replacement bonnet for a KE20 i am working on. Thought I had sourced one from a supplier in Pakistan but looks like I have been ripped off. Does anyone have one knocking around in good nick that they would be willing to sell and ship to the UK for me?

Well life got in the way for a while, after losing both my parents I kind of lost motivation and many a project stopped. But I’ve decided to take a sabbatical from work and focus on the family and getting back to my old self. So that means… getting back to the front fender. When I left off I had removed the inner brace as when I cut out the slab rust patch I could see there was much rust back there. So I took the strip wheel to the brace and found some pin holes that also needed mending. And the top of the brace had rusted so that got some treatment too But after looking at the bottom section of the fender I think I will just cut the bottom off and remake it. It’s heavily corroded and the 0.8mm steel will be paper thin by the time I clean it up

I'm always wary of those videos, there are tonnes of similar ones out there for just about every type of product on the market (from cars to olive oil), and you just know they are full of AI slop and dubious/fake information. Not saying that there isn't truth buried in there, but the claims are often just vague enough to avoid being libelous or to hide where exactly the details have come from (if they have come from anywhere other than thin air). For instance, the fact that at about 19 minutes in the video talks about "this isn't some 15yo engine on a badge that has left Australia, this is on a dealer forecourt in Blacktown, right now" talking about the Ford 3.0L TDV6, yet the pictures are of a Honda CRV (yes, I know the voiceover is being rhetorical, but it just goes to show how much effort is actually placed in to these videos). Another sign that it's AI text-to-voice is when they call the Ford 2.0L TD the "ee sea oh blue" rather than "Eco Blue". The thumbnails are always click-baity (usually with a screenshot of a news reader next to something on fire or a big red scary graph). Every video sounds the same, looks the same which shows that they're just pumped out with little to no human interaction, let alone someone real actually saying the words and appearing on camera (it's always short snippets without audio from other online videos or news stories)

Sounds like a job for Banjo... You will need to know what the Defi gauge voltage should be, and what is arriving at the gauge. I have the opposite problem- since I converted to coil-over-plug there is no coil to produce the pulse for the factory tacho, and the Haltech fires the coils with only 5V. The tacho reads at idle, but not above... I need to fit an amplifier to make the 5V pulse larger, I'm not sure what your one needs, unless the gauge is expecting a lower voltage than what it is getting. Also, check the gauge for options on cylinder numbers, you can often set them for 2 or 4 or 6, 8 cyls and it divides the pulses to suit.

Hello guys, currently going good on my ke30 restoration. Installed a 3 gauges defi A1 setup on my ke30, the rpm gauge is accurate on idle but whenever i rev it, even tiny revs, it goes up uncontrollably, up to 7K even hahaha. my coil and dizzy setup: 12v original spec coil with an electronic dizzy

There's virtually nothing offically available. Torsion beam rear end and all. I believe versions sold in Japan and the US had an IRS rear. But not in the good old land of Oz. The car in its factory configuration always handled and braked well. Its sure footed through corners. Has a big heavy 24mm factory sway bar up front. No aftermarket options available locally. No strut bracing or anything. Probably doesn't need it. It has handled the drop in ride height very well. Everything is quite flat, the ball joints aren't overly strained and it still drives straight as a plum line without having a wheel alignment yet. I'll get it into the shop for a balance and alignment in the near future. I did jump the gun a bit and already bought a set of 20mm roll center adjusters from Car Mods Australia, but without adjustable tie rods they're gonna be pretty useless. And likely too big to use anyway. Could be that there's other adjustable tie rods that'll fit, GR maybe? Also had to take the Motegi's off as there's a buckle that's driving me nuts. Hopefully have a replacement in the next week or 2.

"Currently the clutch engages when i let off my foot off the pedal at around 85%,Z" Is that 85% away from the floor, so engages too high, or 85% of its travel down, so engages too low? Can you feel any free-play in the cable before the release bearing touches the pressure plate. That is best checked directly on the clutch fork by lying under the car and doing it with your hand. If its pickup is too high and the C-clip is on the top groove, put washers in between the C-clip and the rubber bung at the top of the cable, so you effectively push the cable further down. I had a 10mm plastic spacer in mine. If its too low in pickup and the C-clip is on the last (bottom) groove, your cable is too short. You will have to wait until the clutch plate wears a bit, there is no factory adjustment for that, and you would have to remove the gearbox to get at the pivot ball behind the clutch release fork for a non-factory fix.

Good day everyone! I just had my KE30 restored and successfully swapped a K50 box off a KE70. Currently the clutch engages when i let off my foot off the pedal at around 85%, tried adjusting the C-clip on top but still the same. I'm trying to achieve the 50-60% lift to engage the clutch. Any recommendations?

By then the cars were so well-designed its hard to make them better, not like the 1960s. Are there sway bar options? Factory ones are too heavy in the front and too light in the rear usually. Will it change direction with the throttle going on or off mid-corner?

Maybe this one. https://rrrshop.co.uk/collections/2zr-lotus-parts/products/pb-racing-exhaust-manifild

I've been trying to find information regarding modifications for this car. There's a lot of dead ends. In fact nearly everything ends in a dead end. Most likely because the strict standards placed on these cars regarding noise and emissions. But.... we don't care about that much do we? So exhaust is next. Thinking a 2 inch mandrel system with Lukey megaflow resonator in the mid and muffler in the rear. I'm pretty desperate to change the headers as well. It has some bloody hideous pressed metal thing with a close couple catalyst. The headers are dead set hard to find. There's some junk on ali express or baba and a couple of providers in the US that don't ship to Aus. monkeywrench racing and performance chip tuning. Then there's Lotus. The 2ZR-FE and EC60 6 speed was also used in the S3 Lotus Elise in a supercharged configuration putting down 245hp and 275hp depending on the option. Internally identical engine and gearbox. Just a blower and a tune. But damn that shit is priced out of this world. Something like 9000 euro for the supercharger kit. I've hit up Genie about a set as well. We'll see how that goes. I'd be keen to keep the close coupled catalyst setup with a tight little 4-1 header to keep it all factory looking and avoid having to do any wiring or ecu stuff at this point. I've read the 1zz uses the same intake and exhaust flange design also. Not sure I want dive into that either.

My wife works from home and sometimes has to transport precious cargo. She will regularly use my 2017 Isuzu MU-X once or twice a week and leave it in an undesirable state, so we recently made the decision to make the swap official and permanent. She gets the big car and I'm back in a rolla. First things first. We went down to the gumbyment services and we swapped the personal plates over. GJM85 back on a blue Corolla. Next, goodbye tow bar because racecar. Then I needed wheels, so up jumped my sons old Motegi Traklite's 17x7+45. These wheel come with their own story for later. What about some low? A set of Kings KTFL-119 and KTRL-120. These springs are designed to be used with factory shocks and stay trapped. Perfect when you find the whole brand new, unopened set on FB market place for $330. In they go for 30mm low. The factory gearknob makes my palm itchy. Off to SCA for the stereotypical dildo shifter and a K&N panel filter. Why not? So what's next?

After almost 10 years the 2017 Ascent Sport hatch is officially mine. Not my wife's. We purchased this Corolla new in late 2017 for my wife as a daily driver. The old ZRE182R Ascent Sport hatch in something blue gem. 2ZR-FE, 6 speed manual. Factory tint, mats &, tow bar. Added the ceramic paint protection as well. Long story short, the gearbox gave up, so it sat in limbo for about 6month. Turns out towing a 6x4 trailer full of road base wreaks havoc on the gearbox's input shaft bearing. Even though it was a couple of years ago, it likely initiated the eventual failure. These little cars don't utilise a spigot in the back of the crank, so total drive load literally ends on that transmission shaft bearing. Pricing for these EC60 6 speed gearbox's varies wildly and I eventually took a gamble on a local wreckers advertisement and picked up a 2012 transmission for $700 + postage and it turned up the next day. I grabbed a new clutch from clutchdirect for $500, new trans-axle seals and rear main from Bursons for $160 and had it all swapped out over a weekend. Back in business!

Can we go back to the future and use the old 'Username and password' instead of the new 'email address and password'? A username is much easier to remember than whatever email I was using two decades ago and it has probably died since then. I assume the whole revamp of the site appearance was imposed upon the club, but just in case there are some choices for the Mods...

Cheap you say huh? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/389704949650?_trkparms=itmf%3D1%26aid%3D1110018%26rkt%3D12%26asc%3D344081%26pid%3D101430%26mech%3D1%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V2AndXaiHotClickWithCompV6WithEbertNRTRecallCpcWithAlacarteCPCRecallAndFilter%26pmt%3D1%26amclksrc%3DITM%26sd%3D292327609434%26sid%3DAQALAAAAEJt9SDuD0kBHCh2BNa3lgGM%3D%26itm%3D389704949650%26noa%3D0%26plcampt%3D0%3A16832660016%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26rk%3D6%26mehot%3Dnone%26lsid%3D15%26meid%3D9b71807af8f24aec8ee154706505cf35%26pg%3D2332490&_trksid=p2332490.c101430.m3021&itmprp=cksum%3A3897049496509b71807af8f24aec8ee154706505cf35%7Cenc%3AAQALAAABQHBuzzDjOogGgz7ltcXSbcflFR97mkZhEI7uT0xLlGCRHjPqTmabW6Cu4GzbI9cIYa2TGDaw1ClztF0VI3qnqKGug8UZHWwEONPYw786YRWAkEISZnhWp0NMRZfNMS%252FOJfkXUkKLAB%252F54XzZ3lYomQmlkd2C%252BL0kMnqewSBrgMqxElznYt1s1xwfXs13Y8w6lwPbmDZAS%252Fw6siCQ6j3z5F36nHdQxdMR1Ag2TS8fXEWxgzJenv7m1FFWm4klyZ2VQ71BlLTeypVEFt7JDmke670wim2d5HFht%252BecK1pBofLhantHvihzsLLBcB7mm5notTK%252F9XpmZ7ktA48hMNJghrAKJoySqPaBMzAuG4KGBOscJRpXE%252Fvx%252BNLV1Fpa9uThIxJmFX3dB3d4Q4pCYBGP%252FUb0zE2sp9K3Vt4eeM8O%252FZpz%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01M3CCJ1ABZ7TKZA541H58M557

Cheers taz I thought they had different diff gears but I was told by a family member there was no difference. Might look at a different diff now Cheers 79rolla

Then you see this run-out special. 1mm over 6cc dish 5k pistons for $35 plus freight with pins and clips included(rings extra) I needed std for one of mine but at that price I grabbed a set and I may know a guy that can resize em for me 🤣

The D/Row refers to a double row chain. I don't think I ever seen a single row chain, on any of the numerous K series engines I've had over the years. I'm not even sure if the crankshaft is a little shorter, for early K series engines, that only had a single row chain; & therefore; presumably a narrower crank sprocket. No use asking A.I. to find out; as He/She was not around in those early days ! According to Google AI, who I just asked to verify, it was the other way around. K series engines started off with double row timing chains. Toyota, then decided to use a single row chain; but as there was no difference to the length of the crankshaft; most of us, have upgraded to double row, since. Please correct me, if I've assumed something here incorrectly. Cheers Banjo

Do 4K use the same kit? There's a gap between the ad part at the top saying it fits 4K, but the compatible engines don't list it. Should be fine! Be the guinea pig!

Hi Everyone ! Just interested to hear if anyone has purchased & fitted one of these timing chain kits, that are available here in Australia. K Series Timing Chain Refurb Kit Complete Seems very cheap, for a kit that has so many bits included ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Daniel ! Nice to see You back; & that your "Go Anywhere" Toyota, is still going strong. Would be interested; in what the deepest water level crossing, You have accomplished successfully ? It's come a long way, since 2023. Cheers Banjo.

Been a few years now, still going strong, not alot has changed exterior wise. Switched to a longer flat rack roof rack, mounted my recovery tracks up there as well as a 2x3m awning and 32 inch lightbar. On my latest trip into the bush I ripped the factory rear bumper off and broke the mounts so currently in the works with designing and fabricating a custom rear bar with a tyre carrier on the back. Other than that I have perfected the suspension setup. Kept the same springs but rebuilt the front struts and fitted up longer 616mm Rav4 rear shocks which opened up even more flex for the rear. Inside I have removed the rear seats and made a false floor from the boot to the front seats. Where the back seat was I have storage for recovery gear and tools underneath the floor. There is a lot of space there so wanted to use it! Other than that just been enjoying it, getting out and using it on the harder tracks! Actually did a black trail last weekend and there was only 1 obstacle I didn't try cause it was very steep.

Well that was short lived ! I don't know how A.I. works, but it was if it read my post, & then found a video to dispel my comment, about Toyota engines not making the 13 worst engines listing; then sent me the link. Now this is a long video. It is however, well made; & very informative; & I suggest seeing it, right through to the end. I came away, after watching it totally; glad that K Series engines are so simple; & do not involve the massive over complication of modern engine design. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QKr9qIgIEM So just enjoy; without the rejoice. Cheers Banjo