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Advancing the camshaft (turning the cam sprocket clockwise) makes the inlet open earlier and close earlier, as you say, but it also makes the exhaust open earlier on the power stroke and close earlier on the top of the exhaust stroke. It turns the diagram here backwards, anti-clockwise. So inlet opens 15deg BTDC, exhaust closes 15deg ATDC, and at the other end the exhaust opens 50deg before the bottom and inlet closes earlier at 50deg ABDC. The piston is hardly moving at the top if you measure mm per deg, so these changes are not a big deal. At the other end its more important. The exhaust opens earlier, using less of the expansion of the burning fuel pressure, and the inlet closes earlier so the cylinder may not fill with fuel & air quite as much. The inlet closing is usually the most important one. If your adjustable wheel is anything like the Datsun ones, the teeth and the holes will not line up. The tooth will move 16deg, but one hole moves 4deg, a 2nd makes it 8deg and the 3rd 12deg, then the next tooth is 16deg back on hole 1. This should be fun!

I had a close look at the RollMaster double link chain kit, I purchased a few years back, & fitted to my 5K test engine, to see how many degrees of crankshaft advance or retard, was possible, using the markings on the new Rollmaster camshaft sprocket, for mating with the location pin, on the end of the camshaft. i believe the Rollmaster kit I purchased was a model CS9000. Here is a thread on here from 13 years ago. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/54177-rollmaster-cs9000-adjustable-timing-gear/ The camshaft sprocket has a total of 36 teeth around it. The crankshaft sprocket has 18 teeth on, it, as you would expect, as 36/18 equals 2; & it takes 2 revolutions of the crankshaft, for every single rotation, of the camshaft. To my way of thinking, we have always had the ability, to advance or retard the valve timing, in relation to the crankshaft; by simply moving the chain links one or two teeth, forward or backward. Thirty six teeth on the camshaft sprocket, means moving the chain one link in either direction, at assembly, would result in advancing or retarding the camshaft, in relation to the crankshaft position, by 10 degrees, of camshaft rotation. However, when we talk about advance & retard, it is relation to the crankshaft; one link movement (10 degrees) on the camshaft, equals 20 degrees of movement on the crankshaft. That is a big jump, which is probably why the pins position on the camshaft sprocket, is the preferred method of advancing or retarding the camshaft in relation to crankshaft position. However, there are just nine holes drilled into the end of the camshaft sprocket. They are not evenly spaced. There is room for 3 more, if required. If there was 12, then 360 degree of camshaft rotation, would mean 360/12, would be 30 degrees per pin position, movement/relocation. However, as we have to relate that back to crankshaft degrees, that would mean, that moving the camshaft location pin, one hole to the left or right, would be making a change of 60 degrees of crankshaft rotation. That is a very big change, for one pin setting repositioning either advance or retard. I'll have to do a bit more research, as I'm sure there is something wrong with my logic above. By changing the sprocket position, & changing the cam shaft position, You either make all the valves open & close later or earlier. However, the distributor's cam is also moved, & therefore the triggering point, in the cycle, of the spark plugs is also moved. Maybe you have to move the distributor rotationally, around 1 distributor tooth, to compensate, so the spark fires at pretty much the same original timing point, in the cycle. The K Series dissy's had 12 teeth on the bottom of them, Moving them one tooth would effectively be 60 degrees of crankshaft rotation. (360/12 = 30 x 2 = 60 cranks shaft degrees) So I'll have to see if I can't find some Rollmaster instructions on the net somewhere, that explains all this, as it would be a pain to get it wrong, & have to keep removing the camshaft sprocket cover, time & again. I went looking on the Net, but only found this little diagram so far, which is the original factory timing marks. Cheers Banjo

So this week was a mixed bag of results. I decided to just remake the while bottom of the frame for the tailgate, but I didn't have a piece of steel long enough and I didn't want to put in a weld to get two pieces in when I can do it with one. So I'm holding off on the bottom until I get the steel. However I finally found someone willing to remake the rear quarter window seals. So using some rope in the locking channel, using that as a guide I took some basic measurements, lengths of each side, each angle and I even made a plywood template of the window. But then I sent all those off and I eagerly awaited the results. The photos sent through looked good So I now to remove the window and do a test fit when it arrives. If this works I'll order the same for the other side. Hope this works (insert gulp)

Yeah cool, let me know as I've never moved mine off 0. More so got it as I just wanted a quality timing chain system. 55kw... So would that be wheel or flywheel? More than tripled that at the wheels hehe

Hi Alfie, That's a nice looking radiator. Where are you physically located ? Is that radiator you have chosen, a dual pass model ? I note that there are some companies, supplying this Koyo radiator, complete with twin electric fans. https://www.tf-works.com/kswap-koyo-radiator-aluminum-fan-shroud-with-spal-fans/ Depending on how you are going to drive your KE26, & where you are located, that maybe a lot of radiator, for such a small engine ? I personally have found, that my 4KU engine, in a 2 door KE30 Corolla sedan, I can drive around all day, in 25-30 deg C ambient temperatures; in traffic, without the fan ever switching on. The ram effect of the air is sufficient to keep the engine coolant temperature in check, whilst the car is in motion. You may even be better off, with no stroud, & maybe just a single electric fan, under thermostatic control. It depends very much on where you are located, & the resident outside air temps, & how you intend to drive the KE26. Cheers Banjo

I’m restoring a 1971 Corolla Wagon KE26. I’m in the process of selecting a radiator and fan. I’ve decided on the Koyorad VH012825. My question is what fan and shroud is compatible? Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks Si, I'm sure it will all make sense, once I pull it off, & reposition the camshaft sprocket on the end of the cam. The rear of my 5K engine on the test bed, is exposed; & I have a large 360 degree wheel on the rear face of the flywheel. As it is easy to see, & was set up, with TDC no:1 cylinder being spot on; I should be able to confirm the opening on the inlet valve on No: 1 cylinder, before & after the moving of the camshaft sprocket. I will advise, once I tackle it, this evening. The 5K engine official engine power output specs, indicate it produced . . . . As it officially, developed 74 HP / 55kW, at 5600rpm; with standard valve opening & closing times; should I initially increase or decrease the opening of the valves, to increase the power in my "desired range" of cruising; at 2500 - 3500 RPM ? ( have a 5 speed KE70 gearbox, in my KE30 ). I'll do a bit of research, before I pick on a figure to; "test the waters". Cheers Banjo

👍 Also note the numbers around the outside of the sprocket. That's the new TDC "dot" (lining up with the dot on the crank sprocket and for under the can sprocket)that corresponds to whatever new hole (for Cam dowel pin) you choose.

Hi Si, I'll pull the sprocket off, before I move it; & with a protractor; measure the angular change for each positional change. The total of 8 settings, for both advance & retard, appear to each be equal. I'll then just double that number, as valve opening & closing lifts are always set as degrees of crankshaft; not camshaft. I looked on the net, for the instructions for this particular Rollmaster model, which I believe is a CS9000, but could not see one. Will have another look today. I'll post my findings here. Many thanks ! Cheers Banjo

That's a Roll master adjustable timing kit. I've got one in my motor. From memory each hole you advance or retard the timing gives 6° of timing change and will move max power 100rpm up or down the rec range.

When I took the 5K engine camshaft sprocket cover off, on my 5K EFI project, to swap it over, for the one which will have the Hall sensor mounted on it, I noticed this nice new dual chain & sprocket. I'd completely forgotten that I'd replaced it with an aftermarket one, some years back, when I first set up this 5K test rig. I was always a bit miffed, with Toyota; that the two off 5K engines I had, only had, single width link camshaft chain drives, when even some of my olde 3K engines had dual chain camshaft drives. However, this new "aftermarket camshaft sprocket", was a dual chain model, & had a total off nine (9) holes, into which the location pin on the front end of the camshaft could be located. They were stamped labelled . . . . 4R -3R - 2R - 1R - 0 - 1A - 2R - 3R - 4R It appears that they represent 1-4 degrees Retard; & 1 - 4 degrees Advance, with "0" in the middle being standard/factory/design camshaft timing. The problem with selecting an advanced or retarded camshaft timing; is that only one end of the engines range is improved; whilst the other is slightly poorer. I assume the advance, would assist, the low rev range & produce more torque; which would make sense; as 5K engines, were basically used in commercial Liteace vans, & Toyota forklifts, right up until the year 2000, I'm led to believe. I Googled it, to see if my assumptions were right, & lo & behold, up came the following page. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/82434-4k-timing-chain/ I trust You've watched the links I posted about the FreeValve engine (earlier in this thread), which points out, that when you have "complete control" over the opening, closing; & rate of opening or closing; that you then have total control over the combustion process, which accounts for the incredible extra horsepower, they are able to extract from from a given C.C. capacity. The proof of this statement; is in the results you obtain from a race engine, with an aggressive camshaft grind; where the engine outputs more at high revs, but sounds like a olde steam engine, at a high idle. I gather that's why a number of engine manufacturers; like Toyota, changed their valve timing to two different ranges with the VVT timing engines like our family's daily drive; Echo & Corolla engines. I'd love to be able to adjust the camshaft timing, to provide ideal engine performance, in the 2500 - 3500 rpm range, which is where my KE30 with 5 speed gearbox & BW diff, currently sits when cruising; but it is such a "pain in the arse", to remove the timing chain cover, with the engine out, on a test bed; let alone, in the engine bay. It is so much easier to experiment with camshaft "inlet & exhaust valve timing", on twin overhead heads, as you can just move the toothed belt, clockwise or counter clockwise, on the toothed pullies, at the front of the head. The modified 5K camshaft sprocket cover, is almost ready to go back on the engine, as I've now added a bracket for the dual Haltech Hall Effect sensor. I will move the camshaft advance 2 degrees, & we'll see what effect that has. The round disc, permanently fitted to; & now an integral part of the timing chain cover; is necessary, so the stainless steel bracket, mounting the Haltech dual Hall Effect sensor face is exactly square to the edge of the aluminium disc. Although the simple stainless steel bracket is only adjustable in "one plane", the centering of the Hall effect sensor, over the edge profile of the disk, is easily adjusted with 2-3 large washers, behind the disk, where the crankshaft center bolt, attaches to the crankshaft, & the crankshaft pulley. Just awaiting, the ebay arrival of 50 off rare earth "rod" magnets; 36 off which, will be inserted into the edge of the disc; exactly 10 degrees apart. The whole exercise, is quick clean & simple, now that it is finished; & I'm pretty excited about actually running the engine, & see what the pulses look like. This simple setup, will allow "batch fire mode", from the Speeduino ECU; but my first job after this is up & running, will be to enlarge the width of my camshaft position sensor, built into an olde Denso dissy; that will "overlap" the single pulse per rev; from the crankshaft disc, & result in a single crankshaft pulse, once per 2 revolutions of the crankshaft. That will allow full sequential control of both spark plugs & fuel injectors. Lots of fun had; bringing an olde engine up to modern day precise control of both ignition & fuel. Cheers Banjo

Sorry for the thread resurrection, but I couldn't resist adding something. As a business owner, there's a lot that keeps me happy. First off, seeing my team thrive is a major source of joy. Knowing that I've played a part in that development, it is incredibly fulfilling to witness their personal and professional growth. Then there's the satisfaction of seeing satisfied customers. When they leave glowing reviews or express gratitude for our products or services, it validates all the hard work we've put in. Another aspect that brings me immense satisfaction is the cleanliness of our office space, which is in Lafayette. We've hired Going Green, a reputable local cleaning company that keeps our office spotless, allowing us to focus on our core operations without worrying about the cleanliness aspect.

Hey, one of my buddies had this problem, and he said it's because of the ignition system

Hey, Since adjusting the idle speed screw didn't help and you've checked for vacuum leaks, it could be a few things like fuel delivery issues, a dirty idle air control valve (IACV), or faulty engine sensors. Considering you're new to troubleshooting, it might be a good idea to get a mechanic's opinion for a more precise diagnosis and fix.

Hey, I think just by reducing fuel consumption in your KE55 Sedan, optimizing your driving habits can definitely help without costing anything extra. Try avoiding excessive idling and accelerating more gradually. Maintaining a steady speed and anticipating traffic flow can also minimize fuel wastage. These changes might surprise you with how much they improve your fuel efficiency(I speak from expirince here), even without any expensive upgrades

Hey there! If you're looking to swap out the dead engine in your 1972 Corona RT85, I've got a couple of suggestions for you. How about considering a 3S-GE or 3S-GTE engine from Toyota. They're lightweight, powerful, and parts are easy to find. Another option is the 4A-GE engine. So just choose what you have the budget for

When I upgraded the shifter on my Corolla, one specific gear that felt noticeably improved was shifting into third gear. With the shorter shifter and upgraded components, shifting into third felt much crisper and more responsive. It was like the car responded instantly to my input, making driving more enjoyable, especially during spirited driving or on twisty roads

"the large one is jammed " How did you try to make it open? Govt emissions regulations of the 1980s meant that manufacturers moved away from manual twin-choke carbs to vacuum operated secondaries or delay diaphrams or other systems that mean they won't open if you just open the throttle wide open. Even revving the engine with no load will not always open them. If you had all the linkages disconnected and it was jammed you could expect corrosion and dirt in the axle bush and around the plate edge, usually from sitting on a bench for a decade. The other thing that jams them is being bent or twisted. Start a new topic for it and give us some photos.

That makes no sense. Read it again and correct it with a proper question

Can anybody Tell how to open jammed butterfly and valves on is fine but the large one is jammed any solutions

Thanks @pogopins, that's handy to know. I will continue my hunt then, if anyone has a recommendation then please let me know.

this does sound like a neat solution but my experience with the VAG squirters has not been good

Honestly had a really hard time trying to get the throttle linkage setup there is not a lot of information on how people run the linkages on a stock 4K engine with Weber 32/36 but after some mucking around and getting a proper throttle linkage, it is running smoothly.

It pops up occasionally, then disappears.

Ah, I didn't know you knew Parrot- "I don't suppose this source is Philip Colina aka pfncolina / dhee / dhee77 / Budi / etc. based in Manila?" Page 2 of this thread.