Twinky

Illegal modifications for the win! I mean seriously, it's almost cheaper to get the defect, scrap the shell and replace the motor into another donor car. Laws like this are not introduced for any safety reason what so ever. So the odd dipshit will do something like replace a strut with a broomstick and die whilst doing it but then again you can't stop people from sticking forks into power outlets. So there is always going to be someone doing something illegal and get injured in the process. More people die on country roads as a result of inattention or fatigue, speed is only a factor because it's a highway speed limit. Only on occasion you hear of people dying on city streets and a major contributor is illegal street racing. Most of which are P platers. So instead of tightening up car modifications they should introduce power to weight classifications. Meaning that any modifications done to cars by P platers is illegal but modifications done by experienced drivers remain legal. There are a tonne of better ways to handle this but by saying no to everyone more defect notices can be flung around. The minorities ruin it for the majority.

Google is your friend.

Okie Dokie! Long time no progress! With the arrival of my daughter on the 21st Nov I've been a very busy dad taking care of the little fluid factory. Not helping the issue is the fact that we seem to have a nocturnal baby that sleeps all day and poops all night. After a couple of weeks she settled herself into a routine and now it time for daddy's turn to play with his toys! Jeez..... never thought I'd be calling myself a dad.... Funny how things change. Anyhow, my mate recently bough an MY05 STI along with my brother purchasing a track 93 R32 GTST with custom fluff. This seemed to give me the motivation to finally get that supercharger on and join in on the boosting. So I got back to the drawing board, welded up some mountings and got the supercharger in place on the dummy motor. One thing that I had been meaning to do for a while was to actually calculate what kind of boost I would be looking at with the standard pulley attached to the motor and supercharger. Good thing that I did because I calculated that I would be getting -2psi. Somehow I doubt my engine would have liked that too much. So about an hour and a half at u steal it I managed to find a ribbed belt pulley with an acceptable pulley ratio from an Audi V6. So mow I'm looking at 4.2psi with a pulley ratio of about 1.94. I could bump it up to 2.53 but that would be hitting the limits on safe supercharger speed. So, today I'm going off to John at KEMotorsport to pick up some flanges and other boost related paraphernalia. I would suggest checking out his website! http://www.keicarshop.com/ He is located in Port Adelaide SA. Also don't call him if you have no actual interest i.e DREAMERS! So progress is slow and steady, pics up when there is something worthwhile taking a photo of.

I would only go with megasquirt if you have good electronics knowledge. You can get pre built kits but for the price you could find yourself a Haltech E6X/E8, which are far better ECUs (in my opinion). I just find them easy to understand.

Something to watch out for while you buy. You will find the brand Microtech come up just as cheap and sometimes cheaper than it's Haltech counterpart. Be warned that when a Microtech is purchased it is pre-built by the manufacturer to suit a specific motor. So basically NEVER buy a Microtech second hand unless it is specifically for YOUR motor. You can send the ECU back to Microtech and get them to change it but for the cost you could just buy a Haltech and be done with it. Another brand you could look into is Wolf 3d v4 and up. I myself would recommend a Haltech because of their simplicity and parts availability. Also they use GM sensors which are in plague proportions. I run a dinosaur Haltech E6 on my 5k EFI, soon to be supercharged. A question for you. What motor do you want this for?

Something interesting on running in engines. http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htm

Wow! You couldn't fit any more metal in there if you tried! I'd dangle some spiders off those cross braces for the spider cavern effect.

If it's running fine who cares right? Id be happy if my engine was running fine... I wouldn't even touch the crank pulley if everything is working fine. Don't rock the apple cart!

I'm sorry but am I the only one who finds the topic title a little um.... Yeah I don't have to explain it. I was expecting to see bikini clad slurries all over the screen, my bad.

Does it have cupholders?

If it free revvs with no load it sounds like fuel starvation, but the blowback through the carb sounds like timing. So I would say maybe you need to check your cam timing. Did they machine a new timing mark on the cam?

Oh pick me pick me!!!! Haltech uses GM sensors so basically you should raid commodores for sensors and parts. Also you would most likely end up tuning in TPS mode anyway. Waaaaiiit a minute.... is that a map sensor hanging off the side of you Haltech anyway? TPS is where your problem lies, read your manual nad see what TPS your unit can accept. The standard toyota TPS from the 4KEFI is a 3 position switch, I know that the E6 (not E6X) only accepts a rotary pot type sensor. I am unsure of what the E6X accepts in terms of TPS. Anyway ask any question you want as I am now familiar with Haltech systems. I'll be away fishing for most of today so I'll get back to you later.

That's why I love my corolla, a new engine only costs me $50-$100.

Can't tell if serious or sarcastic :hmm:

Anything to fire someone up! The move is definitely a money saving move, which is why I went in that direction. They are not moving out of oz, more so that design is not going to be done in Aus. I can tell you more than 300 engineers will loose their jobs.

In a profit driven world and customers always going for the cheapest option, I am not surprised at all. This is why Australian products are going down the drain. Everyone says "Save the Aussie brand!" but then in the other hand go and buy something Chinese for a third of the cost and the same quality. This is why Australian industry is going down the gurgler. Now with the excellent carbon tax is like the silver bullet to home grown industry. Well done Aussies!

Just f@$king awesome. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smE-uIljiGo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O2aH4XLbto One strange lookin dude but damn he can make a beat. Lol I though that I was the only one who played around with FL.

I think I've answered my own question I just remembered Jaycar does a programmable Ignition control kit which totals around $200. I'll get that. Linky! http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5386&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=965#11 http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5442&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=965#11 http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5443&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=965#11 Looks ok, does everything I need it to do.

Hey guys, as most of you know I have recently completed a changeover to EFI. The only failure was to have ignition control. Thus I have not attached my supercharger fearing I would blow the motor without adequate ignition timing. So my question is, what is safe timing for something like 5psi??? Do I really need to worry for something so mild?? As far as I know the 5k electronic dizzy has little advance in it anyway. Would it be safe to supercharge in my situation without changing ignition timing?

Yeah, I'll need yo buy $50 worth of the stuff. Man it's like a newborn after a weeks worth of filth all done in the space of 30 minutes.

Yeah, everywhere else is perfectly fine but that corner has popped out. It was fine before I started driving and then when I got home I noticed a big pool of oil forming on the floor. The shit has gone EVERYWHERE!!! It's all over the inner wheel, wheel arch, suspension, sway bar, sump inside the engine bay. This is going to be a 5 hour job just because of the clean-up. Just when you are happy with your car it punches you in the balls.

So yeah I've definately overtightened as it seems. I'll get another one and re do it.... damn it's a pain in the arse! Took me just over 2 hours to do it last time. Hate doing things twice. Won't make this mistake again.

The gasket locates fine but it is not the correct size around the corners. Here is a pic, sorry it's a bit blurry. I could stick my finger in-between the gasket and the sump. So I've cut off the bit that splurged out and filled it with gasket silicon. If that doesn't hold for the time being I'll be catching the bus..... Again....

Hey guys, Just wondering if the 5K can go gasketless? As in just use silicon and no rubber gasket. I have gone through two sump gaskets already as they just deform and pop out of place when I tighten them up. They don't even sit on properly to begin with. The gasket is totally fine in all places but the corner underneath cylinder 1 pops out and leaks like a bastard. Cheers

mayb e just not enough flow? What size is the fuel main fuel line?