Twinky

mmmmmmmmm 13b pp? Wouldn't be as hard as any other non standard motor, but still a difficult task. The engine bay should be the easiest, just mounting it up. Same with the gearbox, custom mounts and possibly cutting out shifter position in the tunnel (easy). where it gets hard is the tailshaft and diff. The hard part is locating a tailshaft of the right length and if you can't find one then you have to get one modified to length. In all an engine swap is pretty straight forward and easy, depending on your budget!

With the symptoms he is describing it is a blown head gasket. you don't have to have any oil in the coolant for it to be certain. When he says that the overflow bottle gets pressureised then that tells me it is a blown head gasket. I had the same problem. It isn't a full blow out but just a tiny ass gap between the cylinder and water passage. This is why you get the overflow bottle to burst because the combustion pressure is pressurising the cooling system which opens the overflow cap, which pressurises the overflow bottle and bursts out of the overflow cap.

It is reletavely straight forward depending on how skilled you are. Even if you have little experience it is pretty simple. You should get a slight power increase from the carb and have greater tuneability and plenty of aftermarket support. If you want the best of the carb I would suggest you find a set of extractors and MAX 2 1/4" exhaust system. Next on the list would be a mild camshaft and then lastly getting the head ported and shaved. You would be looking at just over $1000 to do all of that depending on where you go. From memory I beleive that webber could handle 200HP, so imagine it running on a 60HP engine. You would want to juice all the HP you can from the motor. Before you buy that kit search around the forums to see if anyone is selling one here before paying over $500 for something you could get for $250 allready tuned to go on a 4k. I do beleive I saw one this week on here.

Also check the float level as a flooded bowl will cause it to idle rough/not at all.

It's normal for one butterfly to be closed while idling. It opens up when you move the throttle up for hight speed.

Toyota Forklift carby, Gas setup. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-TOYOTA-FORKLIFT-CARBURETOR-GAS-5K-5F610-18-/310173229721?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4837c3e299 It not that the setup won't be beneficial, but cost vs outcome is my argument point. You will have to do the whole thing. Not just the engine but the fuel lines, tank, filler, etc. In the end you could drop in a 4AGE and totally blow away the gassed 4k in performance and efficiency. Running gas isn't that mutch more efficient, addmitently a dedicated gas setup would run really well but you still have to use more gas than you would petrol to get anywhere. For a couple of dollars savings at the bowser and a little bit of power increase it's not worth the money you will spend setting it up. I'm not against the idea (a mate at work gas a dedicated 5L V8 setup and it is awesome!) but like I said cost vs outcome. If it is different you want go ahead, it would be a great cruiser and a cheaper runner.

Why? Although gas has a higher octane rating it produces less power. It's more of a downgrade if anything. Unless ofcourse you go to electronic injection and add a turbo you won't really see a gain. If you want high octane just run some avgas or add octane boost to 98 unleaded. Oh and it's not going to be a cheap option either. Cost vs benifits will be crap. Trust me, if this was a great option everyone would be doing it.

Who told you that?? Go for a ride in a car with thin wall tyres on 18s, then go for a ride with 15s and you will notice the difference in the bumps. The sidewalls do flex even when running 35 psi. When you hit a bump it is not a gradual flex but an instant one, yes a tyre is not designed to do the work of the suspension but it does add to ride comfort. Also I hope you have a heavy wallet, tyres for 18s are just as expensive as race tyres for 15/16 inch rims. Oh and did I mention that 18s are illegal on KE55s? I think you can legaly go to 16 inch rims.

Those internals almost look exactly the same as the points type 5k dizzy.

Well actually the 5 speed is only a placebo effect as the ratios are exactly the same as the 4 speed :D 5th gear is basically just an overdrive and drops a couple of hundred rpm at 100kmph.

With practive you can weld thin sheet, car body panels arent that thin anyway. Turn the power and wire speed down. Practice on some scrap material to see how fast you have to move along to get the flow going and not blow holes through. I have a gasless and a gass mig (neighbours shared), gasless mig is utterly useless at neat welds. Well it's hard to do anyway. I am a beginner welder and have found that the gass mig is just unbeatable, apart from a tig!

Here is a pic of the missmatch. Look at the left hand side where the exhaust and inlet meet at the top. A closer look. If you look closer you can see that the manifold is not center on the mount, you should be able to see the lip. The new inlet. And the present I bought my rolla: Short cannon muffler 2 1/2" with standard 1.5" exhaust plus a 1.5 x 12" resinator. I love the new note it gives off. To the untrained ear you can't tell the difference from the old one. But... This exhaust is quieter at idle and does not drone on light throttle. This is the old exhaust. Long Cannon muffler 2.5", 2" all the way through exhaust with a middle 12" muffler from a commodore. Drones like a mofo. If you play the videos both together and fast forward to the hard throllt point and listen to them straight after one another you will notice the difference. Lol spot the difference (not the exhaust), win beer!

Well....... After a shitload of gaskets and countless hours of stuffing around... It was the carby.... All this time....... One thing that i noticed when I pulled it apart was that the inlet manifold was warped and covered about 3-4mm of the ports, thankfully I had a spare that matched perfectly. I changed, machined flat every part of the intake/exhaust system and it still ran like crap. Changed every bit I could on the carby and still no propper idle. So I went down to u-pull it and grabbed a carby from a KE70, the one that has a million hoses coming out of every direction. I stripped off all the stuff it didn't need and put it on. Started first pop, idles smoother and runs sooooooooo mutch better then ever. The carby is completely different to the KE55/30 4k/5k units. The throttle cable setup is different, thank god they provided provisions to run a manual choke amongst that monstrosity of an auto choke. I couldn't transpose the 4k linkages to the new units because the shaft is a couple of mm thicker. I can even screw the idle mixture screw and actually get a decent range of engine rpm. I am soo happy with it again that I ended up buying a cannon muffler and new resinator for it. It pulls up hill soo mutch better now. I would say that it goes up hill faster than the old 4k went down hill.

Twin Cams also came out with rear disc brakes. I have seen some in fair condition for $1500, which in my opinion would be far easier than trying to convert to a GE.

Could be an air leak. Check all vac lines and manifolds.

You have to think of it like this. The carb does not give you horsepower, what it does is mixes the air and fuel as best as it can and the power the motor makes is directly realted to this. So getting correct jet sizes to match the flow of the carby and to what the engine needs is essential. The reason I mention 4k jets is that over time carbs tend to wear down, jets get just that tad wider from errosion thus giving you a rich fuel mixture, by going down to 4k jets (which are barely smaller) you get that same effect on errosion but because they are smaller and have been slightly erroded bigger you can get quite lucky and get a great mixture. I am actually running a 4k carby on my 5k at the moment and the fuel ratios are very close to being spot on. I think even from factory the jets were allready running rich. It really pays to play around, pays even more to make an air fuel mixture display!

Webbers will definately see to it that your fuel consumption worsens. If you want full control of fuel usage I would get 1 1/2 inch Twin Su's. There are a few people on here who really know thier stuff about them. Those webbers were designed for 130HP and up motors. If you are really keen on new carbs, have a shot at pulling apart the 5k carb. There really is not alot to them. You could even pull out the jets from a 4k, that would suppress the fuel usage.

What is stuffed on the 5k carb? Re-build kits don't cost alot. Also I think I have seen some new carbs on egay

Oil does also leak in whilst you are undoing them don't forget.

If you really want to make use of the webber carby then I would suggest a mild cam and ported head with extractors. Slapping a webber on a stock 4k motor is a bit excessive, if you are worried about fuel consumption you shouldn't have gone webbers!

Oh god no...

I don't think many 5k's had electronic dizzys but the 7k's definately did. When I got my 5k it came with points dizzy.

I'll be getting a new pipe for the PCV valve as it is worn and cracked at the edges on both sides. I didn't stick my finger over the hole as it was too damn hot to do so. I can't wait to fix this issue as it is delaying the supercharger project!!! OOO and I found out that the carbs on the triumph are 1 & 3/4 inch SUs. But on the donor car (the one I can pillage) it either has Twin SU HS-6 or Strombers CD150 Carburettors.

I think in the end the springs and weights will be the answer, after all they are the ones that will controll the advance curve. The stronger vac source thing that I tried is really just like setting the ide timing further advanced. It won't change the ignition curve but it does give you that little more advance at low rpm BUT then you run into running that 50 degree advance at high rpm. Would the weights from the 4k dizzy fit onto the electronic unit? I have three dizzys at home, 4k, 5k and the electronic unit. Now I just need a tacho so that I can read rpm as my meter on my multimeter has shat itself. might do some stuffing around :hmm:

Well the hose was a part of the issue, but not the fix. I cut the hose down and pluged it back on and immediately the engine picked up a little rpm. It does not stutter as mutch but the issue is still there. At a full throttle stab the engine wants to stall as the rpm drops back to idle. I have fixed that issue with a slight increase in throttle position and a very slight increase in timing. The engine would be running at about 1000 rpm at idle now and does not stall. So the car is now at a reliably driven stage but I am still sussing out where the air leak could be coming from. I think that I am going to re do the manifold gasket and see if that might be the problem. I think maybe when I mated the exhaust and intake manifold that they might have slightly gone askew thus making a tiny gap. After all a tiny gap would be enough to give a stuttery idle. Doing a bit of overtime at work so I won't get to that in a couple of days.