Onikage

Looks nice, should give it a good cut and polish one day, the paint could come up real good. You could also keep an eye out for statesman/caprice seats (in the VQ-VS series, easy bolt in), not as buckety as the HSV seats but still are comfy. A nice upgrade if you can justify it, is to get a VR-VS Level 3 cluster, with the trip computer, though you will need the loom and BCM out of a berlina/calais/statesman, or get a special loom that lets you keep your existing bcm, which costs about $100 or so. EDIT: Since you've driven both a VT and a VS, how would you compare them?

At least parts of the trooper will live on in the lux. it has a nice rugged old school workhorse look to it. 'Popped' the engine of the lux out? Sounds like an engine crane was not involved, care to share how you did it? I might need to remove an engine from a car later on, and I don't have an engine crane.

I recently had the clutch replaced on my Ae93 SX with the C52 gearbox. I took the car for a quick spin after the clutch replacement, and heard a rattle/clunk when I hit about 35kmh, which increased in intensity as I increased speed. I didn't exceed 45kmh during the test drive. Pulled back into my garage, jacked up the front of the car, fired it up, put it into 2nd and clutched out, only to hear that rattle/clunk again. When i put the clutch back in then noise stopped. Also, with the car off, and turning the RHS front wheel by hand, a clunk/rattle can be heard, with clutch in or out, while in neutral. The LHS didn't make any such noise. I have been suggested to that either the clutch release bearing wasn't installed correctly, or that the RHS drive shaft isn't seated correctly, a mechanic had a quick look at it and said it appeared to be seated correctly. And simply taking it back to the workshop isn't an option, as the clutch swap was done in my garage with the help of a mechanic, who will be returning this weekend to suss out the issue, but if I know where to look, it can speed up the process of getting my Corolla back on the road.

Nice pair of RT40's, I spotted one at a local wreckers a few months back, was suprised at how solid the doors felt when opening them and how intact most of the parts were after 40+ odd years of service. Even the daily driver looks like a headturner, how's a stock one go with keeping up with traffic?

Nice find, not many of these are spotted on the roads anymore in decent nick, particularly 2.4L 5 speed models. So your plan is JDM, without all the stickers and in your face mods?

See how much depot to depot would cost? If you have someone to tow to, and from each respective depot.

Sounds like lowered springs is what you want. Kings superlows may give you the drop you want. K-Mac can custom make you prings to your desired specs It would be a good idea to replace the shocks too with sportier items, KYB Excel G's are decent, there's other options too.

Probably will be there. Do the standard Skyhigh entry fees apply on the morning of the 15th?

I'm no suspension guru so I can't answer that first question. Most people just changeover the shocks and springs and call it day, the cars do hold up fairly well if they're for street use. Thanks, theres no big areas of rust so a grinder isn't warranted. I may pick up a rotary tool one day and grind a few bits around the boot, or even a sand with some coarse sandpaper may do the job for now. I'm still getting the hang of it all, so I might have to redo a few bits later on when I get more suitable tools for the job.

After digging a bit deeper, there is little bits of rust in various places on the car, nothing serious has been found, most came off with a bit of thinner on a rag, the rest of it got rust converted. One place with the biggest patch of rust and masses of grime was the metal underneath the boot opening seal. I just gave the area a quick clean and hit the rust with converter, as my current focus is getting the roof gutters up to scratch. Anyway, pics of the gunk under the boot rubber On a different note, I have a set of aftermarket shocks and springs to install on the car. Do I need to disconnect the brake hoses to do the swap?

One of the cleanest Ksev's out. That engine bay doesn't disappoint either, clean enough to eat off!

Has the electrician given you an ETA of when the car will be up and running?

Nice Wagon! Used to see a few of these out and about when I was a kid, thought nothing of them, now I think they're pretty awesome. the 4AGE should make it even more fun to drive :D

While whitewalls probably weren't a factory option for this car, they're still a nice period mod for the car, would go well with those hubcaps as Evan said.

Tidy little Seca! Looks like a much better version of mine. The rims suit the car real well. How do the 5000k Narva whites fare? I haven't heard a lot of good things about Narva's white headlights.

Nice, these cars are pretty rare, must be a pleasure to drive! And with those last two pics, the car looks like it has been completely transformed, looks much nicer than factory! Add in some clear guard indicators and that will top it off I reckon. And is that somewhere in the CBD of melbourne?, that road looks familiar.

Or maybe awaiting stickerbombing! I think I saw this 35 at a kebabs meet 2 months ago, real headturner it was :)

Congrats on securing the Pre-app. Does this mean you're taking on a holden project car when Ollie is complete? :P

Haven't updated in quite a while... Since the last update, the car had had new plugs, leads, throttlebody clean and fuel filter. The old fuel in the old filter was pretty nasty... Yes, the fuel was actually that brown, I may have to drop the fuel tank at some stage to see what sort of crud is in it. But it did 6.8L/100km on the last tank, meaning it can safely do 500km in mixed conditions with mostly civil driving. Throttlebody is a bit oily again, seems the 4AGE likes to blow oil into the throttlebody, and occasionally blows smoke under heavy acceleration. Recently I thought I'd tackle the rust on the car, it has rust in the usual spots, roof gutters, and under window trims. So far I've only found surface rust. Pulled off the trims on the RHS, removed most of the rust, used rust converter and am currently priming it.

Yeah the White Series 1 AE93 is mine, currently original but I will be taking a different path of modifying and will add some aftermarket items but not going overboard. The Gunmetal Grey (Charcoal) series 2 belongs to my mate. I'll PM you shortly with pics of the rust on my car.

Ditching AC and Powersteering will save some weight and unlock a bit more power as there is less load on the motor and would make it more potent on the track, but would you accept the increased difficulty of low speed maneuvers as a tradeoff? Personally I'd keep powersteering in a daily, but would be happy to ditch aircon as it is a significant load on the engine while engaged in a smaller motor. Just a thought.

Read through this thread over a few days, and I have to say, after seeing all the work that has gone into your cars, it's really impressive. Very tasteful too as most would have no idea unless they knew these cars. Your attention to detail is second to none, I've got a bit of surface rust on my AE93 at the top of the windscreens and around the doors, whats the best way of getting rid of the rust without damaging the surrounding paint? And were you at a Coffee, Cars, Donuts meet a couple months back at Glen Waverley? Saw a very similar looking KE70, if not the same car itself there.

Clean as! Shame about the motor, hope its not an expensive fix. If it was me I'd just throw in a blacktop :D

Ah I forgot to mention to take the wheel off, will give much better access to the bottom of the fuel filter.

You can use a dirty car to your advantage, haggle the price down, claim that you're going to pay to get it professionally cleaned. BTW there's a few auto EFI rolla's on carsales and the like, just depends if you want a hatch specifically, or would be happy with a seca or sedan.